I truly enjoy reading this thread. It makes me appreciate how good that I have it. I am one of the VALs that everyone despises, though a year in, and have significantly progressed (or at least in my mind). I am surfing shortboards to longer boards, finding flow in all them and learning tons. I was hell bent on surfing a shortboard at first, now I have mentally matured to just surfing, though with a shorter board preference. BTW- Am I a VAL if I am self aware and avoid obvious spots, and understand the pecking order if in said spot -haha
? The reality is that I am a wave whore - haha. I have spent hours and days finding spots off the beaten path. There are some many good spots, it took some time to figure out what tides work best, where to park to get to the spot, figuring out wave heights/surflies/wind directions/cdip buoys etc to estimate where the best spot is to go. I have wasted time driving to figure this out. My buddies have benefited from my exploration. Surfing these spots, and getting wave after wave has been well worth it both in enjoyment and progression. I kind have my own look-up table for where to go and what board to bring. Though it can be a little nervous at time with the potential of grey coats lurking at some spots, you have to turn that mental switch off. I don't think I have surfed a spot in the last several months that has more than 2-3 other surfers not associated with my buddies. And if my secret spots don't work for the conditions, I go uber early or late and surf the primary spots with minimal folks. Most surfers seem to be like bugs to light, for obvious reason the good spots are always good. Several months ago, I went to a popular spot that lasted 1 hour for me, before I left. It wasn't worth the time everyone dropping in, not respecting anything, blowing waves for everyone - it was an absolute sh!t show, but a reminder of how good I have it. It is simple statistics, X number of good waves, X number of surfers, X potential waves to get in an hour. I prefer to skew the statistics to my favor. I am definitely addicted, but you don't have to worry about me adding to the crowded spots. so am I VAL - hah9a (rhetorically question)?