***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

[Senor Sopa]

Do boogie sessions count? Three days in a row riding ultra-meager, hight tide, barely breaking, slop. At least the water is super warm. Yesterday, I actually put the fins on. I had forgotten that wonderful feeling of having your foot squeezed in a vise. Best part of each session was watching peeps scramble their towels as the tide rushed in.

On Sunday, somehow, wound up at the beach where rocks calved off and crushed the family two years ago. Stupid kids... At the end the lifeguard walks over and tells us we can't hang on the rocks, too dangerous. I had seen the guy approaching, and new what he was gonna say. In the interests of family peace, I kept my trap shut. But I'm thinking, "You just let us sit here for an hour, and NOW it's dangerous" I was prepared to make him get his supervisor down there before I was going to move. LOL, would not have gone over well with my "authority compliant" family.

 

[teeroi]

Got to the regular just before dawn. Forgot to hang my laundry last night so it threw my routine off by a few minutes. Sat and watched for a couple minutes. Then Jimmy sat by me and he started telling me back in the day stories about fishing, diving and cooking Hawaiian style. Jimmy was a 3 sport all star at Punahou and is a great Hawaiian musician. It’s always worth a few minutes to hear what our Kupuna have to share. He was happy cause I shared an old Japanese diving trick I heard from my grandfather that Jimmy hadn’t heard. Said he was going to try it next time and let me know if it works.

Paddled out as some of the dawn patrollers were going in. Waves were fun. Small but the low tide and light crowd made up for the lack in size. There were a couple shoulder high nuggets I got. Surfed the green Moonfish. That board has been a blast. Came in to a group text that Guy Hagi used one of Neals photos of me on the surf and weather report morning news. That green board is getting famous. Wade used Neals shots on his IG with that board. Told Wade he should design in a for marketing purposes only channel and give it another name and it would be golden. Make them all green and call it Green Egg and Bam. Haha

 

[oeste858]

Not much out there but some mushy wedges late morning, but had to get wet after a few days. Not even many sections to try to connect, but at least the water was warm n clear. First time in trunks this year. Was inspired to dust off the GMM2 and get off the plasmic for the first time in weeks. It's a great summer boar. Might be on it for a while now.

 

[Lowqi2]

what a fun day. Thought I died and went to heaven. Nothing huge but just clean waist to head high. Looks like some of the small hurricane down south trickled in , even the small ones had some nice push. Mostly lefts but a few against the grain rights stood up nicely. Had my favorite spot mostly to myself for like 3 hrs. Thanks to the moderate low tide and mild winds things stayed clean. Stamps TKF did not let me down. Super grateful for days like these.

 

[Senor Sopa]

but at least the water was warm n clear. First time in trunks this year.

on first trunks, sheesh, I did it two weeks ago, lol. Oh yeah you was outta town.

Went for a nooner down at the local. I figured I needed a change from high tide. I should've gone right, up to PPP, but no, I went left down to cracks. Sat on the rocks for about 10 minutes, trying to figure out if there was anything rideable. Finally said f'it and paddled out. There actually were some southerly scraps, and tide was low enough to get me to "outside Cracks", this is rare. Outside consists of random rocks/reef, just enough to cap a wave over or even a downjack and then maybe it will roll to shore, maybe. Luckily, the water was very clear, easy to spot the dark rocks from the sand. I picked one that I knew was ok, sure enough, not far enough out. Eventually I caught three "sets", one right was actually fun and provided a turn opportunity before an actual face in the shorie. Two lefts that provided a bit of trim and not much more. Ach, even the talent on the beach was low. It's pretty amazing how in a 200 yard stretch of beach there is so much variety of poor waves top be had.

No funny chit today, sorry.

Need more pics, screen grab from 6:30 tonight, texture is not bad, clouds moved in, it's been hot!
And, no, that's not a peeler coming off the jetty. This pic is from way far away.
This is my goto spot for just getting wet with minimum hassles. Time spent driving is a hassle. Rule #5, you gots to surf for longer than the total drive.

 

[sdsrfr]

surprisingly fun session yesterday evening till dark.

surfed an old regular I haven’t bothered to paddle out at in years. quality waves on offer, especially given the nearby options with crumbly waves and/or flooded by the high tide.

i always get more at this break than I ever expect. gonna have to make it a regular again.

 

[MathDebater]

Surfed the local this morning. It looked even smaller in person than on the cam but the Manta saved the day once again. Got a bunch of crappy waves and three good ones in less than an hour. Can't complain!

 

[Aruka]

catch an extra one for me bros. it's meager times here. probably the flattest ocean I've seen since last July. the wind is nuking too. no end to the wind in sight but possibly a little windswell bump this weekend that will require a bit of a drive to capitalize on.

 

[Havoc]

holy crowded with aggro crowd to boot. textured but some size on the sets. windswell mixing in with the south making for more peaky shape and less lined up. paddled out on the 5'8 mandala asq for an hour and got some nuggets but the a-holes on giant boars were getting annoying. got one good right where i got a nice fs wrap in the pocket (5'8 feels like a skateboard compared to all the bigger boars ive been riding). went in and grabbed the 6'11 wtfo and played payback to the kooks for 2 hours until there was nobody left in the water lol. full on wave feast. best guy out was the most chill today and he was doing air revos and finners on every wave. i didn't hassle him so he gave me the nod on the biggest and best set of the day. fk yeah! i also got a bs wrap to high foam rebound on a freaking 6'11 keel fin mini simmons. cray! rashed up, cramped up, and sunburnt. called it a day on a shoulder high right runner. i couldn't paddle anymore. 3 hours water time. man i needed that!

 

[oeste858]

surprisingly fun session yesterday evening till dark.

surfed an old regular I haven’t bothered to paddle out at in years. quality waves on offer, especially given the nearby options with crumbly waves and/or flooded by the high tide.

i always get more at this break than I ever expect. gonna have to make it a regular again.

So curious. Name spots! LOL

My schedule has been messed up and only caught pretty junky conditions at the usual spots. Should’ve gone to the BB by the pier today but just couldn’t motivate. The main reef had only 5-6 guys out and waist to chest-high, chunky onshore peaks on the dropping tide. GMM2 stuck all the drops and managed to weave through some sections to make it to the end reo. All in all, better than I expected.

 

[MathDebater]

So curious. Name spots! LOL

Same. Is it an alphabet letter street name?

 

[sdsrfr]

Same. Is it an alphabet letter street name?

Lol, nope! I’ll only surf there if I wanna pedo peeve.

 

[MathDebater]

My coworker used to call it checking the bike racks when we worked walking distance.

 

[Tomay]

Knee high clean runners today. Wouldn't have bothered if I didn't have a new board to test out, plus I wanted some paddle fitness. Bloody cold morning, single digit temperatures but the water is still 19 and there was no wind. Took the MOTE Fiji on its maiden voyage in conditions it's obviously not designed for. Paddles like an absolute rocket, tested a few duckdives and no issues there. Got a few runners and rode them like a longboard.

 

[CutnSnip]

small kine in SLA this a.m. and whatever combo was in the water was crossing up weird here. lots of double ups and and just funky waves comin through. Banjo made it a little fun though, had a couple cruisey lefts that put a smile on my face but ultiomately called it after an hour to beat the traffic home. water is so nice rn.. hot in trunks/ jacket even at the crack of dawn.

 

[teeroi]

Surfed the regular on the Moonfish yesterday morning. Forecasted to be a bump, it was bumpy alright. Smaller than the day before and the trades were more East which put the bump in it. Mostly thrash talking and laughing at how bad the old guys surf small waves. Something was said that motivated me to try and got two decent turns on a little wedge.

Best wave I wasn’t even on, a chest high wedge that both Malcom and Jerome poked left and right on the takeoff. Looked inside and Tetsuo fell trying to salvage it. When they paddled back out I shook my head and said that was the most dangerous 1 footer in history. Of course I poked on the next little wedge. Haha

 

[ReForest]

Some fun peaks today. Low tide had the spot looking small and not that appealing. No wind though and the air was humid. Suited up and by the time I got out there the tide started to go up and peaks started to pop up. Some really nice stretched out lefts with a tiny right hand pocket. I decided to forego the trunks and wore a short arm. I wish I woulda listened to my infinite mind and wore trunks because i was burning up in the short arm.

Caught about 15 waves. 5 were good lefts that gave me 2 turns minimum and a few racey sections. The rights were short lived and not that good. It was a great way to start the morning. The wind picked up right when i got out.

Scored!

 

[b.r.]

Been doing beach days with all the relatives, 2 families from in town, 1 visiting from the top of the PNW staying at our compound, lots of groms 3 generations hanging. Every one getting waves, my bro in law has 4 soft boards and I’ve got a couple old INT’s. The other day at the beach break zone we got everybody riding (well not grandma). I tried all the soft boards and was gonna do a Noel s board review but it was too much work while we were whooping it up. Body surf, boogie boards and surfing good times. Today my lovely wife took all our house guests to LA to be tourists and I relaxed and did some needed home maintenance and then went down the street and it was a perfect low tide longboard session caught about 30 waves and then hit the liquor store for the winning lotto ticket.

 

[teeroi]

Pre-dawned the regular the last two days. It’s small but surfable. Paddled the Moonfish out. That boar is super fun. My Love Seat fish from Kerry feels like it gets going faster. But the Moonfish surfs vert better and gets going faster than my regular short boars.

Got a couple nuggets yesterday by sitting a little inside. When one of the regulators missed it I whipped and went. Seems like the weekend crowd was pulling the boys too far out and deep. Did a full rail carve in a pocket that felt good. My friend B told me he didn’t see board come over but chunks of spray.

Friday and yesterday there was some regulating going on. 3 guys paddled out together and were paddling for everything. Back paddling, crumbling shoulders and the one guy that looked like he was a beginner was called into a wave by his friends and dropped in on one of the mellow uncles. They were told to leave by the whole lineup. They ended up paddling to Rockpile Rights where one of them burned a regular twice. They were told to leave there too. I think the “H” word was used.

Yesterday was a Chinese/Taiwanese guy on a lb. paddling for waves from way outside missing them then paddling right back out. John told him to calm down. Then went on a rant about how much of a kook the guy is. Donkey tells John if I’m doing something wrong you can talk to me. I told him he just did. And don’t sit on top of us if you don’t know what you’re doing. He moved down.

This morning was a little smaller but some double ups to be found. And the crowd was pretty much just the regular dawn patrol crew. The benefits of regulating a lineup.

 

[MathDebater]

Went to a very low key back yard wedding for friends who don’t drink much anymore, we figured we’d be home early. NOPE. Went till last call. Missed morning window because of hangover/sleeping it off but drove to a low key summer reef figuring there wasnt enough surf and I’d just swim. NOPE again. Fun waist to chest waves. While the tide was pushing I was wishing I had brought my fish or GMM2 because there was some steep sections and even a rare mini barrel on offer but the manta did an admirable job. I got a great feeling off the top followed by a rock n roll float on a set wave that made my session. Waves became inconsistent when the tide flipped but I was stocked and went in. Didn’t even feel that hungover, light crowd, warm water, no complaints!