Man, it sounds like you have seriously awesome setups up there, Aruka. And thanks again for the fins! I put them to use today.
Yesterday was nuking NW winds so just took family up the coast for a drive. A lot of good setups that I saw, including this psycho reef a mile out. First time going up that far so it was helpful to scope things out. Those spots are a trek to go on a whim but if up there anyways? Booked a camping trip in the area for end of April, gambling on weather.
Surfed the main beachbreak today, about 2 to 3 peaks down from where main crowd sits; classic day to try out the new 6'6" I got. Lumpy windswell, 3-5' with a 6' set or two. Lot of unruly currents afoot but some decent lulls for once. Except for the Sandbar of Cruelty but we'll get to that later. Looked at a while before paddling out and found what looked like a clean path, had to zig-zag a bit but made it out the back hair dry (a first up here), made it as far as my second wave with that status before kooking it horribly, just going way too fast out of steep whitewater takeoff. Ugh.
I got about a dozen waves all-told in the 2 hours and change I was out. Sets would bounce up on you fast and it was challenging to get into waves. There was a 2' chop wave in front of the actual wave and you had to go over that, spin, and go on the actual wave behind it. Had to maneuver split second and it would have been hard on a bigger board. And this new board I have does paddle pretty decently. Its user on the other hand... Anyways, most of the waves made for a steep drop that petered out into channel although a few connected. Had to have front foot back a touch so didn't pearl to my eyebrows on drops but I could tell the sweet spot was just an inch or two forward; I hate that feeling of being excessively on the tail but so many of those waves were very hard to get into. I did get a few good ones though, including a left that lurched and lumped along and I could haul some pretty decent ass on; stocked on how board and fins accelerate like crazy. Going to go well on less heavier days.
Saw one other guy come towards my peak. No idea if he got a wave or not but a big set came in and I never saw him again. It took a lot of will to get back out. Which brings me to the Sandbar of Cruelty. Such a good right that ropes through and is incredibly consistent but the playing field is huge, even harder when there's no lineup to gauge. Incredibly easy to get caught inside as a result and when you do it pushes you further in where the current just takes you in and south. Lefts take you into the sandbar further but they are so tempting. I got a few and each time, fought to get over the back end of the right to just get shoved by current into the impact zone, pinned, and pushed, fighting it the entire way. And it's consistent enough that there are no lulls. FINE. I'll just go with it, paddle 200 yards out and around, and pray not to have wide set catch me. I paddled many miles today doing those laps wave after wave. Some of the bigger ones were closing out but I hated to let them go so said F it and went on one of the bombier of sets. Completely closed out but still felt good to stick the drop.
Conditions started to deteriorate by late morning and eventually caught one halfway in and steadily meandered my way the rest of the way, taking one final leak for good measure.