***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

[silentbutdeadly]

same spot on the six two crow. TP1 glass fins I picked up felt great. not a lot of waves as the swell consistency was kinda funky. came in and found a nice gash in my rail.

had no idea how it happened but then realized it must have been from a guy who lost his board in front of me and I bailed mine to avoid it/him. our board must have tangled.

 

[Brsnstein]

Pretty fun late morning. Three boards over three hours. Started on the giggle box and decided to try the dhd mediums. Felt terrible on the first backside wave, but pretty good on the next two frontside. Switched to my trusty grinder that seems to do really well on dropping tides and got a couple fun lefts and rights. I was about to call it, but the south wind went more west, crowd thinned, waves started standing up more, and size seemed to come up a bit. I switched to the blindbox for the next 1.5 hours and a blast on some running right that were good for a couple turns and. Best session in a while

 

[sdsrfr]

Banjo at low tide ftw

 

[Tomay]

Nice solid swell here recently, HH to OH+. Big gutter in the middle dividing the inner and outer banks. I spent most of yesterday hoping to see someone paddle out at my local so I'd have someone to surf with as the waves were breaking out pretty far and it looked lonely - apparently everyone just surfed the points.

This morning I grabbed the Fever and hit it but chose the wrong time to paddle out and got nailed by a set of double ups on the shorey. I bottomed out on the sand trying to get under one of them which broke on me and then sent the back of my board into the sand with my foot in between the two and i've stuffed my ankle. Didn't get out, came in to see if I could walk and it was sore but sweet. Went back out and scored about 10 waves, a few nice ones but mostly just good takeoffs and then they'd get fat in the gutter. Ankle has been pretty sore and throbbing from about middday, looks like I'll be out of the water for a while - bugger.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

ocean was hung over as fvck this morning. opted for the bonzer cuase of the high tide mush. good call. so much paddling Im spent. first wave was long and had a nice roundie foam bash into a slingshot to the inside for a couple more turns.

I got some ideas brewing for a Mitsven SBD bonzer model

 

[b.r.]

Yesterday lunchtime. Didn’t realize that the waves were going to be as good as they were. Windswell with some shifty peaks all over the place but if you were in the right spot there were some great ones. 2 hours plus. Right arm is jacked this morning

 

[sdsrfr]

hello, offshores. unfortunately crowded AF, even for a Sunday.

bonzer egg saves the day again.

 

[Woke AF]

Sunny overhead and plus sets, on the heavy side. No crowd and few making waves. Rode the Parmy and it was at its limit. Big drops with no turns, except 1 backside wrap.Getting in early was not difficult but getting down the face before the wave ran off was a challenge. One air-drop to tail stand that I miraculously made and some tight curl cover-ups. Tried to come off the bottom and kick stall for the curl and the fin spun-out mid-face. One big one out ran me while I was coming out of the no fade bottom turn, thought hard about trying to get up to pull into the highline but pussed out while it ran away and detonated on me.
Surprising great session, but as soon I got home sent an inquiry to Album for 7'2 Ledge RTP twin.

 

[doc_flavonoid]

Tried to come off the bottom and kick stall for the curl and the fin spun-out mid-face.

no disrespect. but everytime i do this i feel like im kookinit pushing not enough rail too hard while trying to draw quad/twin/tri fin lines on a single.

your parmy is a 6-10 v6? always wonder if the 6-channel is more forgiving in these type situations or if the answer is just more rail.

i usually wash out the fin when im late and deep and get over amped trying to make that first section by trying to hook it hard midface. makes some sense that the extra surface area in the tail would have better hold, but in these type situations your so much on rail that i think either more rail or more fins are the ticket

 

[Aruka]

Yesterday we surfed twice at the local. Combo swell and east winds had it heavy and barreling. There were rights at the North end but I opted for the heaving lefts down the beach with my goofyfooted friend. Should have been on a 6-6 pin tail or something but I had a new SMTH 6-3 squashy that needed surfed. First hour or so was pretty punishing. I think I was a little far forward on the board and the fins slid out on a couple late entries. Once I adjusted my paddling position towards the rear a hair I started having better luck and ultimately got some really good views and even a couple makes. Saw my friend get one of the most epic tubes I've ever seen him get. He scratched in right behind the double up and then it heaved a thick slab over him. The wave was so gnarly I was glad it wasn't my turn.

Afternoon sesh back at the same spot. Fuller tide and dropping swell had it a bit tamer. Still crispy winds and a few tubes to be had also lots of just fun, head high or so wedgy lefts. Finally got to feel the board a bit on the open face and it felt very nice. Lively little bugger despite packing more foam than I usually ride.

This morning was grey and ugly. My whole body was sore. Still, I had a feeling the left reef was going to like the winds and swell size and that the low 40's air temps would keep everyone away. Sho' nuff, no one around when I pulled up. Meaty outside sets rolling through. I was hoping for head high and playful but what'chu gon' do. Rode the 6'4" SMTH round pin. The walk out across the reef sucks at this spot. There's like four foot drops between the large, slippery boulders and I've learned my lesson not to hop on and start paddling too soon, lest the ocean sucks out and leaves you dry docked on a barnacle encrusted rock the size of a coffee table.

The first set that came through was pretty large. I scrambled wide and got a dicey entry into a somewhat scary, gathering wall. The ribs on the face were a good enough excuse not to try anything too bold. I pumped through a couple sections and kicked out in the channel. Paddling back out my buddy got a smaller, deep one that looked pretty fun and his hoot from the channel after he flew past me confirmed it. My next wave was cleaner and I got to carve it up a bit. Weee. The next hour or so went really well with both of us getting some fun waves and the big scary sets being fairly infrequent. At some point it started to feel like the tide was getting too low. The inside section started closing out in what I can only describe as a dangerous way. I had one solid overhead wave where I went up into what looked like a great turn section with speed but as I was coming out of it, about halfway down the face the bottom dropped out and I air dropped like 4-6 feet into the flats. I landed it but I didn't have speed to get out in front of the lip so I jumped off and got absolutely flogged. Came up and took a few more on the head. No point in even trying to duckdive them.

"How's that inside corner?", my buddy asked with a sh!t eating grin when I finally made it back to the peak.

"Go to hell."

The wind increased and shifted more side shore. We stayed out for a couple more sets, just trying to get something decent to end on. My last wave was pretty fun, kind of a mid sized one with an interesting bending face that ran and then slowed and then ran again but never closed out. I cut back near the end and belly rode the whitewater way inside, between two rock shelves, nearly to shore. My buddy kick out after riding his wave to the channel and then I watched him paddle against the current for a long while to finally make it in.

"That was an interesting place to paddle in", I commented as he finally stumbled out of the ocean.

His response was too vulgar to post here.

 

[Kento]

Man, it sounds like you have seriously awesome setups up there, Aruka. And thanks again for the fins! I put them to use today.

Yesterday was nuking NW winds so just took family up the coast for a drive. A lot of good setups that I saw, including this psycho reef a mile out. First time going up that far so it was helpful to scope things out. Those spots are a trek to go on a whim but if up there anyways? Booked a camping trip in the area for end of April, gambling on weather.

Surfed the main beachbreak today, about 2 to 3 peaks down from where main crowd sits; classic day to try out the new 6'6" I got. Lumpy windswell, 3-5' with a 6' set or two. Lot of unruly currents afoot but some decent lulls for once. Except for the Sandbar of Cruelty but we'll get to that later. Looked at a while before paddling out and found what looked like a clean path, had to zig-zag a bit but made it out the back hair dry (a first up here), made it as far as my second wave with that status before kooking it horribly, just going way too fast out of steep whitewater takeoff. Ugh.

I got about a dozen waves all-told in the 2 hours and change I was out. Sets would bounce up on you fast and it was challenging to get into waves. There was a 2' chop wave in front of the actual wave and you had to go over that, spin, and go on the actual wave behind it. Had to maneuver split second and it would have been hard on a bigger board. And this new board I have does paddle pretty decently. Its user on the other hand... Anyways, most of the waves made for a steep drop that petered out into channel although a few connected. Had to have front foot back a touch so didn't pearl to my eyebrows on drops but I could tell the sweet spot was just an inch or two forward; I hate that feeling of being excessively on the tail but so many of those waves were very hard to get into. I did get a few good ones though, including a left that lurched and lumped along and I could haul some pretty decent ass on; stocked on how board and fins accelerate like crazy. Going to go well on less heavier days.

Saw one other guy come towards my peak. No idea if he got a wave or not but a big set came in and I never saw him again. It took a lot of will to get back out. Which brings me to the Sandbar of Cruelty. Such a good right that ropes through and is incredibly consistent but the playing field is huge, even harder when there's no lineup to gauge. Incredibly easy to get caught inside as a result and when you do it pushes you further in where the current just takes you in and south. Lefts take you into the sandbar further but they are so tempting. I got a few and each time, fought to get over the back end of the right to just get shoved by current into the impact zone, pinned, and pushed, fighting it the entire way. And it's consistent enough that there are no lulls. FINE. I'll just go with it, paddle 200 yards out and around, and pray not to have wide set catch me. I paddled many miles today doing those laps wave after wave. Some of the bigger ones were closing out but I hated to let them go so said F it and went on one of the bombier of sets. Completely closed out but still felt good to stick the drop.

Conditions started to deteriorate by late morning and eventually caught one halfway in and steadily meandered my way the rest of the way, taking one final leak for good measure.

 

[Woke AF]

no disrespect. but everytime i do this i feel like im kookinit pushing not enough rail too hard while trying to draw quad/twin/tri fin lines on a single.

your parmy is a 6-10 v6? always wonder if the 6-channel is more forgiving in these type situations or if the answer is just more rail.

i usually wash out the fin when im late and deep and get over amped trying to make that first section by trying to hook it hard midface. makes some sense that the extra surface area in the tail would have better hold, but in these type situations your so much on rail that i think either more rail or more fins are the ticket

no disrespect taken

The board is a 6'7 v6.
it was just a reaction, the wave was more bowly and powerful than I was expecting and I got a little too excited. If I was a better singlefin surfer I think I should of eased it into the bowl and gone for a cheater 5. Having a hard time getting into that mindset though.
The bowl was big and looking ready to throw w/ a long open barrel waiting to happen. A hard stall was not necessary; greed gets me every time

 

[MathDebater]

Woke up late yesterday and took my time, ended up with an hour window so I hit the usual beach. Super mixed up but enough fun peaks in the mix even for the not insignificant crowd. I rode my GX for the first time in a month or two and it felt great. It's amazing how easy it is to ride even after being on an alt shapes kick. The wife and I got lunch and ate it at another beach after, where I unfortunately saw how well one of my go to reefs was working. Classic.

 

[sdsrfr]

The wife and I got lunch and ate it at another beach after, where I unfortunately saw how well one of my go to reefs was working. Classic.

ode to the days we woke up, surfed, went home and ate, and then went back out and surfed again... or twice more.

cant say how many of my 2-3 session days I got skunked on at least one of the sessions only to mega score on one the others.

 

[jkb]

ode to the days we woke up, surfed, went home and ate, and then went back out and surfed again... or twice more.

cant say how many of my 2-3 session days I got skunked on at least one of the sessions only to mega score on one the others.

 

[MathDebater]

Me and my buddies I used to live in a surf flop house were just talking about the ol' days. And somehow we could party till last call AND surf all day after. Now I can't do any of the above.

 

[ZZ Soft Top]

Drove south to a NOC beachie yesterday morning. Was meeting a friend at 11 for coffee so I missed the dawn patrol and boy-oh-boy was it crowded by 8:30AM. Paddled out and was actually able to get a fun handful since at least 60% of the people in the water seemed more interested in sitting on their boards and talking about surfing than actually doing it. Conditions were off-shore and sunny, a beautiful day. Was hoping to get in another session on my way home, but it was onshore and mushed out at that point.

 

[Aruka]

Early morning session at the local. I should have passed and just gone to work but my buddy talked me into paddling. Tide was sucking out hard and it felt like it was sapping the energy from the swell. Rode the new 6-3 SMTH just to see how it would go in smaller waves. An hour of chop hopping and frustration was all I had in me. I think I got one turn. Bleh.

Evening went much better with an incoming tide and glassier conditions. A low, dark sky and a light rain kept the crowd away. Nearshore left wedges. Wast to chest high and fast. Get up and go, go, go. Ran a smaller center fin in the 6-3 and the board was feeling pretty alright. Got some fun runners and a couple decent backside schnaps.

 

[ZeeHawk]

Been a run of good swells recently and haven't written so here's a couple of the good ones.

Bomb swell came through on Wednesday and while it's usually stormy as hell and onshore the wind was blowing 10-15 offshore. No snow and 15'-25' waves closing out the bay out front. WAAAAY too big for me so did my best to keep busy at work. I must have taken 40 pics and 20 videos every time a smoker set came through. Every time I looked out the window it was crazy. Got some great pics to frame.

The next day it mellowed but was still smoking huge but Friday, Friday came with the goods. The local was 6'-8' @ 10secs, glassy and a pointbreak of a left firing with nobody out. Changed into my wetsuit, grabbed my board and walked out the jetty, jumped off, and got to paddling. First set came through a few minutes after I got to the peak and I misjudged. It was pushing 10' and barreling. Waited for the tail end of the set and took about a 8 footer. Shat myself the whole way full speed with some good turns. Rode to the beach, ran out the jetty and took a breather. That set was heavy but gave myself a pep talk and jumped back into it. Super consistent sets and didn't have to wait more than about 5 minutes between sets. People popped up in the parking lot and thought it was gonna get crowded but they split and left me to it. Decided to take hell at work and just stayed at it taking a wave to the beach, running back up the jetty, and hitting repeat. I surfed pretty well and nailed most of my turns. 4 hours later I was absolutely smoked.

Yesterday headed to the local down the way at about chest high, peaky, pretty powerful and peeling to the beach. Nobody out and perfect for the Neckbeard 2. Mega clean and lots of turns. Not too terrible of a paddle back out and the weather wasn't too bad at about 36 degrees and sunny. It was just too fun again so decided to take hell at work. This time at 2 and half hours but with nobody out and fun waves, I'll take the abuse.

 

[oeste858]

Well, this ruined my Monday. Busted box on the Akila contemporary fish after unsuccessfully navigating human obstacle course at reef#1. Clown duckdove right where I was already dropping in.