I got it used, so not my custom but it's 5'11. I ride mostly ride twin keels and quad fishes 5'7-5'10. If I rode a HPSB, it'd probably be 6'1 (about my height) , maybe 33L. I'm 177lbs.
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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Pretty weak high tide waves on the mini HPTC twinzer.
Nothing of note, but actually was able to trim several from forward for quite a ways
and it was a beautiful morning (albeit 41 degrees).
Nothing of note, but actually was able to trim several from forward for quite a ways
and it was a beautiful morning (albeit 41 degrees).
late evening post-work quickie at the protected spot. grey skies over a dark sea. crispy off shores.
it started dumping hail right as I began pulling my suit on. thank goodness for my poncho! I probably should have ridden something fishy but I've been trying to ride the 6-3 SMTH as much as possible. unsurprisingly the thruster felt fairly uninspiring on the mushy runners but I got a few that bowled up and allowed for some gutback action and even a few snaps.
a full rainbow settled over town and later, as the sky opened, the towering clouds were tinged in sunset pink. not a bad evening.
it started dumping hail right as I began pulling my suit on. thank goodness for my poncho! I probably should have ridden something fishy but I've been trying to ride the 6-3 SMTH as much as possible. unsurprisingly the thruster felt fairly uninspiring on the mushy runners but I got a few that bowled up and allowed for some gutback action and even a few snaps.
a full rainbow settled over town and later, as the sky opened, the towering clouds were tinged in sunset pink. not a bad evening.
4deg uptick in water temp.
and the villagers sang and danced.
and the villagers sang and danced.
yesterday low tide, lb down the street and up a few reefs, one friend and her dad were out, we got a lot of clean little runners for an hour and a half, probably try the same thing later today after a few hours working on the back 40.
Regretted not going at sunset yesterday and went eager beaver up and at it wet by 7.
weird wonk and lots of current waiting through the lulls. got some really long fun ones on the sets for the fish.
weird wonk and lots of current waiting through the lulls. got some really long fun ones on the sets for the fish.
high tide wonk on the best bar on my gx. most crowded I've ever seen my local
Ditto on the wonk, but there were some decentish ones to be had. Started on the gx with the new coffin fins on the tide push and they went ok. Not really the waves or board I had in mind for them because, but I wanted to feel them out. I think they’ll go great for me in boards with a little more rocker.
Switched to the tkf for the second hour and got a couple fun rights that could have been better except I had to kick on the inside to avoid maiming yahoos dicking around in the shore break
Switched to the tkf for the second hour and got a couple fun rights that could have been better except I had to kick on the inside to avoid maiming yahoos dicking around in the shore break
Must be the moon. Never seen more complete morons in the lineup at the same time
mediocre marty on a FW basically back paddles me and sits 20 feet outside. wave comes, he paddles, I don't move, pretty much blocking him. Looks at me like wtf. I just smiled.
evening sesh on a left corner at the south end of my local. looked like some solid sets so I took my old 6'6" Stamps Next Step. i haven't ridden this board forever but it used to be a favorite when I was 15 lbs. lighter. first few waves were kinda tweeners and the board felt like overkill. finally got a good set wave and blew my first turn. whoops. next one went better. then a nice one came right to me and I surfed it pretty well. felt like I got into groove with the board after that. it pumped for like twenty mins and then the tide turned or something and it started getting weird. overall a decent session. i need to ride this board again.
Late aftenoon, minus tide session at the Reef. Two handfuls out, pack of 13 year olds and some soft toppers. Due to shorter period swell, lots of HH+ waves breaking just outside the reef. I paddled out up the middle, just cuz I could, what a disaster. Endless 2 foot whitewaters. Finally make it out, first 20 seconds, one of the kids does a full on paddle hustle hassle around for a crappy one. "Hmm, I guess it's game on." Anyways, they all backed down and properly respected elderliness after I then caught the next handful of sets while they were all caught way out of position. LOL, they were even hooting my late drops. It dawned on me that surfing with the kids was more fun than surfing with the usual barnival crew. Last wave was the best, one of the few that had an swell underneath the wonk. Caught it perfectly on the easy in jack, only wave that really allowed a real bottom turn, put 8 feet of board above the lip, drive the next session, stay high which set up for extended roundhouse, got stuck in foam for a bit, worked it over for the next part. I'm going in so big fade to make it to the inside, omg, it's gonna bowl without a death crunch, got the short cover and then even a boinker off the knee high foam at the end.
Funny chit, making mom with softtops stew, hoping I'm going to leave. Multiple groups of 20 peeps having bbq parties on the beach.
Funny chit, making mom with softtops stew, hoping I'm going to leave. Multiple groups of 20 peeps having bbq parties on the beach.
More lines on the fish. Small slow but still fun.
Unfortunatel, kook just sitting deer in headlights on the shoulder messed up my last wave. His comment after my stink eye “sorry, I was trying to stay out of your way” - then paddle for the white water, dummy.
Unfortunatel, kook just sitting deer in headlights on the shoulder messed up my last wave. His comment after my stink eye “sorry, I was trying to stay out of your way” - then paddle for the white water, dummy.
early afternoon yesterday had a surprising mid day pulse and i paddled out into a perfect right that just went under the guys outside and i hopped up and board went straight and my body bottom turned splat, hadn't done that in forever. next wave board felt so weird going down the line i was sure a fin fell out, flipped it over when I was back outside 1,2,3,4 still there. must have been old body just worked from surfing all week then working in the yard for 4 hours before surfing . sat outside and regrouped, bigger set the guys just past me way too late, so I spin, alas I was too late too but tried to pull back, oh noooooooo sucked over on my belly with that awkward feeling of wondering when is the good time to get away from your board and not get a fin sandwich, made it back out and told the 4 guys on the peak they should just go in and watch me surf because I was on a roll. younger ripper i've surfed with since he was a kid asked if i got my board from Stu for my birthday yet and I said no he has 2 more days and it isn't looking good, then a perfect wave of the session popped up right after we came over the first wave and he goes birthday wave, i was in the slot perfect late drop dragged out the bottom turn then leaned into it, feet in right place for the first time this session and it was off to the races, my wave of the day and all the previous humiliation was forgotten, i was a good surfer the rest of the day, got out after 3 hours and my feet felt like wooden pegs walking over the cobbles on the way home, jacuzzi and a cold one to end the day. Edit: almost forgot the best part, a grey whale surfaced 25 feet outside of us after I caught my best wave, was so close I could see the barnacles. rad.
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Been taking out Akila's Contemp Fish. Man that board might be my all time favorite now. Heavy claims. Its been that good for me and the most fun i can remember on a board in a long time. Stuck a small NVS trailer on it today with the Aipa's and it had more stability with still ludacris speed. Had some nice hits in the pocket on some reeling waves. A couple of different peeps paddled up during the session to ask what I was riding. Definitely worth the wait.
friggen @b.r. always shaming us non-jacuzzi owning peasants with his warm and fuzzy happy ending surf love stories.
happy birthday you old so and so.
happy birthday you old so and so.
If i lived up your way i would have to have a hot tub in the back of my truck just so i could warm up enough to turn the key in the door. i'm a cold water wussfriggen @b.r. always shaming us non-jacuzzi owning peasants with his warm and fuzzy happy ending surf love stories.
happy birthday you old so and so.
Spot D. Pretty fun when you could get the runners to connect. cold as fruck.
Busy but really good surfers out so the rotation and lineup actually functioned pretty well.
I LOVE the glass TP1's on my crow. Damn.
Busy but really good surfers out so the rotation and lineup actually functioned pretty well.
I LOVE the glass TP1's on my crow. Damn.
Took the banjo out at a high tide reform on Saturday morning. It actually had good shape but I was kooking it up big time. I think my workout friday did a number on me. Went over the falls twice, eventually gave up on turns and just high lined and enjoyed the ride. That made things better. Got out and headed to pick up some paint. Halfway through carrying it out to my truck I felt a pop in my upper back and lost all mobility in my upper spine. Struggled to carry the paint the rest of the way to the truck and today I’m just chillin on the couch. I think I may have over done my workout then one of my goofy falls did me in. chiro tomorrow for some with doctor magic.