bummer. already plans to take it out of the rote summer ‘22?
sounds like it lacks the sparkle to keep around.
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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
sounds like it lacks the sparkle to keep around.
Paddled the Striker out in the dark just to get a few minutes out in the ocean by myself. I went thru some iridescent algae that glowed as I paddled through them. I hear Barak behind me do you see that? There’s goes my couple of minutes of ocean meditation.
Waves were bigger than yesterday and a lot better than forecasted. High tide which softens the wave but sets were a couple feet overhead.
Fell on a weird double up. It rolled under me so I told B to go but when he didn’t whip I tried to air drop in and face planted. Right by Sponge/Neal haha.
Got a couple of nuggets, went vert on a snap that felt really good, lots of boar went over.
Air dropped a sneaker set that I made unlike the face plant.
Light crowd , dolphins, a friend that lives in CA that got a couple nice ones, Jeannie got a couple nuggets. Good dawn patrol.
Waves were bigger than yesterday and a lot better than forecasted. High tide which softens the wave but sets were a couple feet overhead.
Fell on a weird double up. It rolled under me so I told B to go but when he didn’t whip I tried to air drop in and face planted. Right by Sponge/Neal haha.
Got a couple of nuggets, went vert on a snap that felt really good, lots of boar went over.
Air dropped a sneaker set that I made unlike the face plant.
Light crowd , dolphins, a friend that lives in CA that got a couple nice ones, Jeannie got a couple nuggets. Good dawn patrol.
have i yet mentioned the dork on the e-bike toting his leashed funboard going thru salt water puddles on the beach yet?
tide was coming up, he was riding on the beach. it was already high enough to ruin an e-bike, and he was gonna have to go back thru it after a surf session, likely another hour of tide rising
tide was coming up, he was riding on the beach. it was already high enough to ruin an e-bike, and he was gonna have to go back thru it after a surf session, likely another hour of tide rising
smaller on buoys today but sandbar b was surprisingly ok. Handful of micro nugs on the PJ with just my buddy and I on a peak. water warmish and clear.
Brah it’s been a super fun run of waves in town. A bump was forecasted for today and it was a little overhead on sets. But the past week has been bigger and better than expected.
Conditions were great. Rising tide, light wind, good swell direction and at first light a handful of waves in a set. As the tide filled in the sets slowed down and there were some one offs.
Best waves was I got a set and did some rail work. When I paddled back out I sat a little inside waiting my turn in the rotation. Jerome paddled for a set but he was too far outside. His paddling kept Malcolm off and I swung into a gem. Two vert snaps and roundhouse at the end. I paddled back out and to rub it in intold Jerome thanks for blocking Malcolm for me. Gregg said you took care of business on that one. Gregg will say that was a nice wave but rarely compliments my surfing. I do the same to him. Haha.
Neal was out shooting. I don’t think I did a good turn in front of him. But saw him shooting Jesse and his son Zayn on their boogie. Jesse shoots some of the pics I post. Zayn is 4 and riding on the front of Jesse’s sponge. I don’t think he was happy to be out cause there were some overhead waves and Middles is a lot further out than Sandy’s. We called them in to a chest high nugget than went all the way through. After that wave Zayn was hyped.
Conditions were great. Rising tide, light wind, good swell direction and at first light a handful of waves in a set. As the tide filled in the sets slowed down and there were some one offs.
Best waves was I got a set and did some rail work. When I paddled back out I sat a little inside waiting my turn in the rotation. Jerome paddled for a set but he was too far outside. His paddling kept Malcolm off and I swung into a gem. Two vert snaps and roundhouse at the end. I paddled back out and to rub it in intold Jerome thanks for blocking Malcolm for me. Gregg said you took care of business on that one. Gregg will say that was a nice wave but rarely compliments my surfing. I do the same to him. Haha.
Neal was out shooting. I don’t think I did a good turn in front of him. But saw him shooting Jesse and his son Zayn on their boogie. Jesse shoots some of the pics I post. Zayn is 4 and riding on the front of Jesse’s sponge. I don’t think he was happy to be out cause there were some overhead waves and Middles is a lot further out than Sandy’s. We called them in to a chest high nugget than went all the way through. After that wave Zayn was hyped.
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Pretty sh!t again, but good enough for the Plasmic. Missed the clean morning conditions and had to settle for rising tide and onshores. Found some sections here and there. Got one wrap that felt particularly good.
Still waiting for fall to arrive. Been a really terrible run from February to now. Things supposed to pick up next week. We shall see.
Still waiting for fall to arrive. Been a really terrible run from February to now. Things supposed to pick up next week. We shall see.
Wheresyourboard posted a clip of Jesse and Zayn getting a fun one.
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new swell showed this eve. long interval WNW.
closeouts, closeouts everywhere.
got like 3 corners on the Bullet twin and called it good. not sure if it was better than not surfing but at least the water was not as cold as I was expecting.
closeouts, closeouts everywhere.
got like 3 corners on the Bullet twin and called it good. not sure if it was better than not surfing but at least the water was not as cold as I was expecting.
surfed mid-late morning....think i timed it right...had some fun ones. biking back i hear "20W?"...against better judgement i turn back and i finally get to meet truith. but not in a tropical barrel awesomeness way...but a crowded oc sweaty jogging way. cheers!
wow, i actually understood this. am I becoming fluent in 20W?
Fun morning. light onshore and junky but some waves to be had. back on the stamps fuse and felt amazing. feels great with the dann mann frontal skegs
Did some serious yolo'ing in the water. Talked about a future dank farts custom with one of the dank farts guys, then randomly later in the session I get a hoot from bob mitsven paddling out. Comes up to chat and says my 6'4" is ready.
Oh and SBD version two keeps droppng lb's and is feeling great. It's so nice not surfing with a toddler attached to my mid section.
Yew!
Did some serious yolo'ing in the water. Talked about a future dank farts custom with one of the dank farts guys, then randomly later in the session I get a hoot from bob mitsven paddling out. Comes up to chat and says my 6'4" is ready.
Oh and SBD version two keeps droppng lb's and is feeling great. It's so nice not surfing with a toddler attached to my mid section.
Yew!
Reached the 6-month mark so 'ok to do sports' from my surgeon. Ankle feels a lot better than a couple of weeks ago, but still really stiff. So I have taken myself off the disabled list.
Surfed yesterday on my 7'2 twin Album Ledge , 1st time getting it wet. It was small and weak. The board worked ok but nothing special. Paddles like a champ and doesn't feel chunky or bloated. It didn't outrun the waves which was interesting and held the pocket nicely. I would rather ride my Vaquero in those waves.
Went out today and a nice solid swell was running. Semi clean conditions with the waves that had some nice punch. Took out the same board. Catches waves well. Caught a few nice waves frontside but going backside is kooky. My ankle still isn't strong or flexible enough? First impressions are the board is very conservative. Stable, predictable and doesn't outrun waves. It does have a nice burst of speed when it is driven off the back foot but I was trying to minimize that for now. see what happens.
Surfed yesterday on my 7'2 twin Album Ledge , 1st time getting it wet. It was small and weak. The board worked ok but nothing special. Paddles like a champ and doesn't feel chunky or bloated. It didn't outrun the waves which was interesting and held the pocket nicely. I would rather ride my Vaquero in those waves.
Went out today and a nice solid swell was running. Semi clean conditions with the waves that had some nice punch. Took out the same board. Catches waves well. Caught a few nice waves frontside but going backside is kooky. My ankle still isn't strong or flexible enough? First impressions are the board is very conservative. Stable, predictable and doesn't outrun waves. It does have a nice burst of speed when it is driven off the back foot but I was trying to minimize that for now. see what happens.
i was hoping for a reach around, but i prefer my mid-day handies to come from those who are at least amazonian
Stocked. How are you losing weight without surfing much and a bum shoulder??
Lemme know when I can pick up that 6'4 for a demo. LOL
Tempted to just order the same boar.
Was out there with Woke maybe, but didn't see anyone on a Album. Middle beach about 6:45 am. Almost hit Griffin Stepanek as he swerved across Taraval on his bike. Chunky monkey overhead with some period. Wind was fucking with it. Took the Plasmic, which was not the right choice, but I'd like to surf the same board two session in a row. Held fine in some juice, even backside. Board is sick.
Strict diet and no alcohol til I get to my goal weight, then slowly get into a maintenance diet with control of the alcohol. It's been a trip but much needed. Been surfing a bit more and still skating a few days a week so I'm burning some calories.
Once I give that 6'4" a go you can borrow it any time, you know that. I still want you to ride that bonzer I have.
Was looking forward to today as conditions looked good and something other than windswell in the morning. Unfortunately was mostly mushy backing-off waves that would close out hard on a nasty inside sandbar with backwash. But there were some bigger lefts (and occasional rights) that lined up well from the outside but you had to get out of wave before it hit that sandbar. Made a mistake paddling out at first in wrong spot, ended up just going backwards, same as other guy near me. Sealion on inside was stinkeyeing me hard too. 5 minutes of that was more than enough futility; walked up the beach and was much easier paddle out.
Well, I hadn't even gotten a wave yet and was paddling for this crappy doubling-up right just to break the ice. In position and clearly a right (and nothing else) and for some reason my friend decides to aggro paddle/drop in on me. FINE I'll just pull back and let you go if you want it that bad. Well, nice, he ended up chopping the nose of my board off as he tried to go left (??!). Stringer and all; just hanging by glass. He was apologetic as hell but I wasn't happy as no reason for that to happen. He did gift me a couple pairs of booties which fit like a charm a few weeks back so I guess universal scales balanced themselves out. But was bumming. Between running several days a week (even did my first 10K a couple weeks ago and didn't do horrible), moving, yardwork at new place, etc., have been feeling in really good shape lately. Sucked to have my session cut short and in that way as was generally feeling pretty good.
Got two of the better lefts to come in with the front 4" of nose flapping around and the rest disintegrating rapidly from too many duckdives. Did a few semi-flowing turns to stay with wave before it hit sandbar, lined it up so well for a quick high-line barrel when it did, I was gonna go out in style dammit. But no, that backwash or random 2nd lip appeared lower than I hoped, screw that sh!t, pulled ejection cord and jumped into flats as whole thing turned into a churny closeout and I got absolutely wrecked.
But hey, this was a good catalyst. Took my board into local shop to get that nose repaired one way or another and put in an order for a new board; guess I needed that prod. 6'8" x 19 3/4" x 2 5/8", roundpin thruster. Get a little extra foam in it for up here. Will be a few months at least but still, turned a bummer day into a relatively stocked day.
Well, I hadn't even gotten a wave yet and was paddling for this crappy doubling-up right just to break the ice. In position and clearly a right (and nothing else) and for some reason my friend decides to aggro paddle/drop in on me. FINE I'll just pull back and let you go if you want it that bad. Well, nice, he ended up chopping the nose of my board off as he tried to go left (??!). Stringer and all; just hanging by glass. He was apologetic as hell but I wasn't happy as no reason for that to happen. He did gift me a couple pairs of booties which fit like a charm a few weeks back so I guess universal scales balanced themselves out. But was bumming. Between running several days a week (even did my first 10K a couple weeks ago and didn't do horrible), moving, yardwork at new place, etc., have been feeling in really good shape lately. Sucked to have my session cut short and in that way as was generally feeling pretty good.
Got two of the better lefts to come in with the front 4" of nose flapping around and the rest disintegrating rapidly from too many duckdives. Did a few semi-flowing turns to stay with wave before it hit sandbar, lined it up so well for a quick high-line barrel when it did, I was gonna go out in style dammit. But no, that backwash or random 2nd lip appeared lower than I hoped, screw that sh!t, pulled ejection cord and jumped into flats as whole thing turned into a churny closeout and I got absolutely wrecked.
But hey, this was a good catalyst. Took my board into local shop to get that nose repaired one way or another and put in an order for a new board; guess I needed that prod. 6'8" x 19 3/4" x 2 5/8", roundpin thruster. Get a little extra foam in it for up here. Will be a few months at least but still, turned a bummer day into a relatively stocked day.
Finally got to ride the new 6'6" Sharpeye. Waves were nothing special but there was some size and power and I managed to catch a few lefts and put the board on rail a couple times. It felt good. Definitely not an early entry wave catching beast but I caught everything I paddled for and the board held in great off the bottom on the choppy faces. The wind finally picked up too much so we rolled back to the bay and surfed a pretty fun rolling right hander. Not a steep or critical wave but there was some head high+ sets and enough face to carve around on. Rode the Bullet twin which felt like a good call for the conditions. One really nice left came through and I managed a couple fun turns. My body felt a little out of sorts today, kind of a tight hamstring on my left side so I'm trying to work that out and hoping for an evening sesh. The wind is ripping so my expectations are low.
Evening sesh ended up being better than this morning. T'was a short window but the wind and tide coincided nicely for an hour or so before dark. Fairly consistent, mostly locals taking turns and one frothy guy who everyone just kept burning until he got the message.