***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

[teeroi]

Waves were good but lully. Got a bunch of waves in the dark and at first light then got into a bad rotation and told visiting friends and the weekend warriors to go on waves I could’ve caught. Ended up surfing way too long and catching way too few sets in the last hour or so. It’s okay, more swell and NS is going to wake up next week.

 

[Aruka]

Didn't plan on surfing but ran into old timer friend and he talked me into paddling out. Did a board swap and rode his Tomo. Had fun but was happy to get back on my Puddle Jumper for the 2nd half of the session. Waves ended up being better than expected and I surfed for way too long. My body is wrecked.

 

[Tomay]

Been a few good runs of waves here, especially for Spring. Had a few great sessions on the Fiji in slightly overhead waves a few weeks ago. Really felt like the board came alive in the better waves, it really loves a highline to long deep bottom turn but will admit it isn't super radical off the top (for me). That's not what I was after anyway. Got a few little barrels and felt like I was flowing with the waves really nicely. I feel like it's a super dependable board you can throw in the car and ride in all conditions. It is a great paddler with early entry and great flow. It will go great here on the points when they are firing and you need to battle the sweep/crowds.

Also took my Fever out one morning when the tide was a bit lower and it was sucking up and shooting off quick at a different bank. That day I felt like belting the waves and getting a bit more HP. Took me a few waves to get back into the thruster zone but then managed a few nice whacks in between being over amped and flailing around.

Then I jumped off the couch trying to grab one of those sticky hand things that my daughter stuck to the roof and landed awkwardly on my heels. Been out of action since and missed what was one of the best run of waves here I have seen including a great session at the local point with multiple barrel sections, a workable crowd and easy takeoffs.

 

[teeroi]

I’m tired, sunburned and surfed out but the regular is still providing. Got some nuggets all morning. Light Monday crowd with mostly regulars and randoms that knew where they should sit.

Except this one guy. Older guy on a longer shortboar, booties and gloves. He always tries to sit on top of us. He misses waves then tries to paddle for the next one. He got behind me on a medium nugget but I burned him did a vert snap in front of him and had to shorten my roundhouse as I watched him fall off. He tried to paddle for the next set on my turn and I just told him go ahead I’m going to burn you again. Good waves are too precious to waste on guys like that.

Other than that donkey fun morning. Jeannie got pushed into a double up and got a little barrel. Gave a little claim too. Haha.

 

[santacruzin]

getting ready for battle today... thinking about taking out an 11' foamie and being an asshole

 

[000]

swell day
wasnt that great. 2 wave sets every 10 minutes, (unless u were caught inside, then it was an 8 wave set) by 6:30 there were 20 guys on it. a few different takeoff spots, i was using 2 of em, i would leave 1 when the retards saw me catching waves and paddled over. missed many good ones. overhead but lots of mush and closeouts. some newb is now parking his bike on top of mine. oh socal, why do u hate me?

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Couple nugs at an against the grain spot on the gx. Water was fvcking cold.

 

[sdsrfr]

Water was fvcking cold.

wore my 2mm full last night and got out after just under 2hrs numb AF. Pins and needles for a while, haven’t had that sensation in a while.

long lulls did not help.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

This whole summer has been an unpredicatable cycle from 58-71

 

[sdsrfr]

This whole summer has been an unpredicatable cycle from 58-71

I was sweating my asz off Saturday at sunset in the same suit.

time to buy a 4/3 short sleeve. Lol.

 

[teeroi]

Dawned the regular on my 5’10 HIC Mojo. Just to ride something other than the Striker. A bump was predicted but the waves were smaller and less consistent than yesterday. Did manage to get a couple of nuggets. I think I’m going to order this boar again too. If I change anything I’d go a little shorter but then I’d have to go a little wider. So maybe I’ll just have Kerry use the same file.

Waves were really nice when they rolled in. Ended out there longer than expected just waiting for the swell to fill in. Maybe tomorrow.

I did get some good fortune today. Three way tie for the event win at Trestles and those 900 points gave me the overall win in our Fantasy Surf Club. The leader going into the finals was Dddean. He’s a friend but he’s a body boarder. Would’ve been a hard pill to swallow if a dick dragger won our clubs Fantasy Surf overall championship. So if some of you were wondering why I spell Deans name Dddean. It stands for Dick Dragging Dean. Haha.

 

[Muscles]

Paddled out this morning and it was a painful session. I ran a lot last week and then spent my work days sitting at a desk for 10 hours. My hip flexors were so tight to the point where I was having trouble popping up. Blew the take off three times and could barely twist my body to turn. Looked like a fool. Gave up and went in after 30 minutes and decided it just wasn't my day. lol

 

[Northern_Shores]

My hip flexors were so tight to the point where I was having trouble pooping.

Today I went for my first surf since April 4th. I had some trouble pooping too, and did not sh!t in the sand dunes before my surf, as I usually do. Tried two times, but only produced some tiny sh!t-pebbles.

 

[PRCD]

Sht1tting has been pretty good lately for me. Spending moar time in the third world squat to loosen up my pelvic floor. Also, squatting moar.

Surfed the SSW yesterday at high tide. Lots of good surfers out and jockeying. I trunked b/c the local buoy read a water temp of 72 degrees. Everyone was wearing 3/2s which may have cost me as I tried to work into the rotation. Did 3 backhand wraps on one but overall trouble competing with the better goofyfooters.

 

[MathDebater]

Got my ass handed too me yesterday south of the border. I knew I was in for a bad time the night before, still hungover from my bachelor party, then barely got any sleep due to psycho cats (not a euphemism). Mostly the waves were in the head high + range but there was occasionally some solid sets that sent me for long paddles back around. I was too tired, feeling out of shape, and cold to make much of it. Had fun watching my buddies get worked too, at least I wasn't alone.

 

[000]

much like yesterday
too much tide, too few waves, too many surfers, 15 minute wait for 2 wave sets, all others on high volume crutches
when plan A got zood i moved to plan B, got followed, and there was a dork on plan C which is almost never surfed
did get a few good ones though, probably my best surfing since ive been 50
even while being out there alone it was such a long wait and they werent comin thru in the same spot evrey time - then mofos started coming out as if there was enough for others?!?!?

 

[Muscles]

Surfed this morning and things went much better. Hips weren't as tight. I just needed some rest. Didn't go tumbling over the falls trying to pop up. Had to wear a brace for my elbow but that's ok. Better than not surfing. I'm slowly sliding to middle aged kookdom.

 

[Northern_Shores]

much like yesterday
too much tide, too few waves, too many surfers, 15 minute wait for 2 wave sets, all others on high volume crutches
when plan A got zood i moved to plan B, got followed, and there was a dork on plan C which is almost never surfed
did get a few good ones though, probably my best surfing since ive been 50
even while being out there alone it was such a long wait and they werent comin thru in the same spot evrey time - then mofos started coming out as if there was enough for others?!?!?

Try this button [ . ]

 

[sdsrfr]

It was warmer today and thus I was too warm.

I’ve started just dropping in on anyone with a bright white slightly oversized hpsb assuming they’re an adult learner graduating from their mid and believing surflies 3-5‘ forecast.

havent gotten any complaints or sneers yet.

 

[Aruka]

the local was fun yesterday. solid energy. rode the Lightbender for the first time in a while. it felt a little overwhelmed by the juice and the lump at first but once I settled into my session I got some good ones. stoked to get back on this board and my fin box repair seems to be holding. the crowd got a little thick mid morning so I came in and snacked for a while. went back out on the bullet twin. much more of a settled ride. snagged a few well overhead set waves and the board held in nicely. another fun session.

today I just surfed once. tactical strike at the low tide. stamps gbx. got a bunch of fun waves in an hour and a half and only had to yell at one guy who was being an idiot trying to paddle under locals at the peak. stamps gigglebox w/ large dane fins felt $$$. i have been distracted by other boards but I should just ride this one for a while. pit rash is real.