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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

S

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,376
2,183
113
Ponto
Chee-to said:
Oh, I believe it hit DOH in La Jolla. Just not Cardiff.

Here you go. Here's the set of the morning, with what looks like Mr. Jackboots himself taking off far to the left of the screen outside of a pack of panicking kooks. DOH? Not quite. I could charitably call that a 10' face. 95% of the other sets I saw ridden were head high to maybe 2' overhead. Screenshot is 8:51am at 2:49 on the Cardiff Overview rewind cam, if anyone else wants to see the whole thing.
Click to expand...
Bassy don't ride standups, he was gone by that time too. Get the ruler out, the standup guy is halfway up the face, there's at least a head height above him, so far that's two. Add in whatevers left on the bottom and that make >2 => DOH. Also factor in the cliff always makes look smaller. I caught the wave before, Standup guy was trying to tell me to wait, but was fine when I said I'll go on the first one. One of the weaker waves of the session, and definitely the one where I got punished on the inside.

sdsrfr said:
knowing that stretch well, measuring the height of waves when they jack up on the boil makes measurements tricky. the shoulders can drop to shoulder quickly before bowling up again to HH+.

i wouldn’t call this last run anything better than regular OH. calling it DOH kind of implies it was that big on every set which wasnt the case.
Click to expand...
Ah, when discussing wave size, one should always use the smallest ones as the measuring stick.
I'm glad you're such an expert at my spot. Say hi next time. Yeah, I get it, Crowdiff has a certain reputation, but things change dramatically at more size.
 
C

Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
2,428
975
113
Senor Sopa said:
Bassy don't ride standups, he was gone by that time too. Get the ruler out, the standup guy is halfway up the face, there's at least a head height above him, so far that's two. Add in whatevers left on the bottom and that make >2 => DOH. Also factor in the cliff always makes look smaller. I caught the wave before, Standup guy was trying to tell me to wait, but was fine when I said I'll go on the first one. One of the weaker waves of the session, and definitely the one where I got punished on the inside.


Ah, when discussing wave size, one should always use the smallest ones as the measuring stick.
I'm glad you're such an expert at my spot. Say hi next time. Yeah, I get it, Crowdiff has a certain reputation, but things change dramatically at more size.
Click to expand...
He's near the bottom of the face and he's crouched down and paddling. It's a 10' face to me. And it's the biggest set. If it was consistently that big I would call it "DOH-." This is an overhead day with a couple OH++ sets.

Nevertheless, if you got some good ones through the pack I'm stocked for you. I got big Cardiff absolutely epic once during that early Jan 2003 run of swell and remember it quite well.
 
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feralseppo

feralseppo

Billy Hamilton status
Feb 28, 2006
1,469
1,126
113
Getting ready to start day three of a boating adventure. Left early Sunday morning and went up to some restricted access spots. Grom played captain for awhile.

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Biggest sets about double over Duffy at the point near where we anchored. No one else around.

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Yesterday morning woke up to some California gold.
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Surfed about 4 hours in the morning. Didn’t see another person all morning. Point surf few feet over Duffy. Wind shifted straight off shore for a while later in the morning. Inside started holding up. Cover ups were had. Arms spent. Got stuck in the washing machine inside a few times. Good fun on the GG 5-fin Rocket

Back to the boat for lunch and get ready for the afternoon session. Surfed inside the main point. Just my grom my friend and me.
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Lasagna and some Chardonnay for dinner. Passed out by 8. The grom is stocked.
1609857823005.jpeg
Winds look good. Getting ready for the dawn patrol.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,017
17,478
113
San Diego, CA
sdsurfrat said:
So, umm.. How much are those funky changing poncho thingys? anyone know of a good warm one?
I'm just asking for a friend.
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The fancy one I got for xmas from Mrs. Oeste is by Slowtide. It's over the top but so good. But I assume you probably want to see if you can find a rasta one. If not, maybe camo, or skulls... or camo with skulls.
 
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feralseppo

feralseppo

Billy Hamilton status
Feb 28, 2006
1,469
1,126
113
Morning session same place as last night. New swell inconsistently showing. Few feet overhead still. Bigger sets started coming in but didn’t keep it up. Still got some long ones. Refuel and getting ready to repeat.

Just the three of us again. Couple bad shots with my phone in a ziploc before going out.

1609885867114.jpeg

1609885901338.jpeg

1609885934191.jpeg
 
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bluengreen

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,770
4,654
113
SF x Encinitas
Most spots have been too big and wild the past several days. Surfed a protected spot the other day, but people were packed in like sardines against a rocky point and most were old timers and core locals that surf the spot way more than me, so I just watched from the shoulder. More giant stormy surf for the foreseable future. Can't a brother just get some clean 6 footers?
 
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MathDebater

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,595
6,149
113
SD
I just talked to a buddy in your neck of the woods who moved up from SD this year and has been surfing OB a lot. He told me he can't remember his last "relaxing surf". He's missing San Diego's soft small burgers.
 
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Oceanslide

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,707
2,344
113
Oceanside, CA
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L

littlewave

Michael Peterson status
Nov 15, 2009
2,928
177
63
Orange County
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D

doc_flavonoid

Michael Peterson status
Dec 27, 2019
1,796
3,309
113
bluengreen said:
Most spots have been too big and wild the past several days. More giant stormy surf for the foreseable future. Can't a brother just get some clean 6 footers?
Click to expand...
said similar a couple times today. absolute bluebird conditions, warm, light offshores, nice medium tide all day. if it had been only 8ft instead of 18 it would have been insane. hell even double over duffy stead of 4xduf would have been epic...
 
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bluengreen

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,770
4,654
113
SF x Encinitas
If it's 11ft at 15s, no. But sometimes these swells just don't show up very clean or organized for some reason. Storm track is too close to the coast? IDK. Doof or Doc F might know better.
 
Y

Yewstreet

Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 8, 2019
435
802
93
bluengreen said:
If it's 11ft at 15s, no. But sometimes these swells just don't show up very clean or organized for some reason. Storm track is too close to the coast? IDK. Doof or Doc F might know better.
Click to expand...
Hmmm good to know, Ive surfed the beach on similar swells, but Im still new here. Hopefully the morning doesnt have any sickness to it!
 
Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,163
23,102
113
PNW
"surfed" some local crap last night. messy, disorganized, cold, windy, etc.

got one left the sorta ran and allowed for a couple turns on my 6'9 Simon. paid for it with 10 mins. of duckdiving afterwards. surfed for maybe an hour.

first surf of 2021. it can only get better.

not today though. full on storm mode again.
 
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