***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
2,428
975
113
Another afternoon session at the local, mostly some shitty warbly and windswept peaks with a couple little running tubes on the inside and a couple other decent wedges into nice walls. Crowded and it was definitely smaller than yesterday, which suggests to me that tomorrow's swell is overhyped.

There's a drone that has now started to appear and fly low over the lineup for most of this week, but it beat a retreat when some of the boys started launching boards up at it to shoot it down. Some of them then got really good waves and then said that they hoped the drone at least got that one. I do not share this latter sentiment. I do not give a fuck if the drone caught any of my barrels or filmed me smoothly linking a set wave all the way through. I want the drone to go away. I want the footage the drone shot to never be uploaded to the internet. I want the drone operator to accidentally tase himself in the testicles, unless the drone operator is a woman in which case I would like the drone operator to be bitten on her labia by an angry raccoon. I do not want the drone operator to suffer a heart attack and die, like the other gentleman that accidentally tased himself in the testicles while attempting to steal a portrait of Tip O'Neill from the Capitol on Wednesday, as this would be disproportional to the infraction, but I do want the drone operator to suffer some temporarily debilitating injury. At the very least, I would like an overenthusiastic young pit bull or mastiff to chew the drone until it becomes inoperable, but I worry that the operator has it insured or can otherwise afford a new one and this will not forestall the future menace. I daydream impotently about being able to do an air like the pro surfers I would have a hard time giving less of a sh!t about, an air so high and mighty that it majestically launches all the way into the drone and destroys it while retaining me the dividend of plausible deniability. I cannot boost an air like that. I cannot boost an air at all, unless I simply launch over the back of a large and closing out wave. The drone will likely remain safe from my surfing. I cannot say the same for some of my compatriots.
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,179
7,491
113
2dipshits followed me to a non-wave i invented surfing (to escape crowds)
one of em was on my ass like a velcro dingleberry all session
sucking sh!t at surfing did not stop him
 
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Reactions: Havoc and chilly1

Yewstreet

Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 8, 2019
435
801
93
Big Surf in the bay area today. Sought refuge south, a bit out of town. Not many people out (~5) at this point that was sucking in a good amount of swell. Putting the 7'0 ...lost retrogun through the paces, guy beside me is on an 8'6 haha. A few big sets rolled through and mowed down everyone. Got 4 or 5 set waves over the course of a few hours and decided to call it a day after all the paddling.

Driving back up the 101 I saw a helicopter lowering someone down for a water rescue at mavs? Hope he/she is ok.
 

doc_flavonoid

Michael Peterson status
Dec 27, 2019
1,792
3,292
113
Big Surf in the bay area today. Sought refuge south, a bit out of town. Not many people out (~5) at this point that was sucking in a good amount of swell. Putting the 7'0 ...lost retrogun through the paces, guy beside me is on an 8'6 haha. A few big sets rolled through and mowed down everyone. Got 4 or 5 set waves over the course of a few hours and decided to call it a day after all the paddling.

Driving back up the 101 I saw a helicopter lowering someone down for a water rescue at mavs? Hope he/she is ok.
06 popping. tomorrow looks to be huge... again

3BF988FA-6E71-4077-B4D4-51454AA8A62C.jpeg
 

Yewstreet

Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 8, 2019
435
801
93
I swore they were lowering someone down, but I was looking from the highway so definitely could be wrong.

Looks like more driving for me tomorrow...
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,747
23,562
113
Tower 13
Week of work landlocked in oregon it was nice to get back in the water today. Decided to test the upper limit of the mitsven bonzer egg.

Overall tough session with lots of paddling but I got 4 really fun waves. When the board locks in, it's just absolute hipster gold. A few nice top turn combos and a killer downturn made my day happy.

when is it gonna warm up again, fgck! I'll take anything over 50!
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,013
17,459
113
San Diego, CA
Well, pretty sure I got my worst session of 2021 out of the way early. Despite the swell, haven’t surfed much the past week with work busy. Negative low tide this afternoon at reef #1: got the green light while the kids were napping. Chest high rights that looked fun but were actually backing off and pretty hard to catch. One of those days where I was just out of rhythm from the paddle out. Mis-timed it and paddled right into a set. Managed to lose my grip duck-diving and the nose smacked me in the chin, let go the other rail underwater, board flipped and fin sliced my thigh (couple inches from the family jewels and femoral artery). Earned KOTD before I even made it outside.
Couldn't catch a thing, always in the wrong spot, lots of paddling & waiting and finally managed 3 weak waves in almost an hour. The whole time I was thinking: I could be taking a nap in my nice cozy bed right now!
Some days you're the hammer, other days you're the nail. Hope somebody scored today
 
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