gotta look inside the numbers. primary and secondary swells as well as chop.
overlapping swells with similar wave heights, different intervals, and only a couple degrees variation in direction.
and whats coming
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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
overlapping swells with similar wave heights, different intervals, and only a couple degrees variation in direction.
and whats coming
Thanks @doc_flavonoid , will keep this in mind going forward. My local's back home were all semi sheltered point breaks that had a pretty mechanical shape, so never really had to think about this before
Get out there this morning, Yew?
To paraphrase Zizek, if nature is a mother, sometimes she is a mean bitch. Looked approachable on the cams and from the parking lot, with some keging A-frames rolling through between Fulton and VFWs. Paddle out was kind of tough, and as soon as I got out, boom: 100 yards of heavy rip materialized and started pulling NW. Spent the next hour paddling and going virtually nowhere. Same for Seelbach, Party Paul, and the rest of us Average Joe OBs. Once you got near a peak, getting in became even more of a problem because thick teepees were jacking up an extra 5 feet and slabbing fast. Finally grabbed an insider and made it in. Dude came in with a Cole gun with deck channels snapped clean in half. He was pissed. A lot of parking lot talk about and gawking at the explosions going off. Heavy.
To paraphrase Zizek, if nature is a mother, sometimes she is a mean bitch. Looked approachable on the cams and from the parking lot, with some keging A-frames rolling through between Fulton and VFWs. Paddle out was kind of tough, and as soon as I got out, boom: 100 yards of heavy rip materialized and started pulling NW. Spent the next hour paddling and going virtually nowhere. Same for Seelbach, Party Paul, and the rest of us Average Joe OBs. Once you got near a peak, getting in became even more of a problem because thick teepees were jacking up an extra 5 feet and slabbing fast. Finally grabbed an insider and made it in. Dude came in with a Cole gun with deck channels snapped clean in half. He was pissed. A lot of parking lot talk about and gawking at the explosions going off. Heavy.
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Didnt really like what I was seeing on the southern cams, so sleep won out. Giving my body a break after surfing almost every day in December.
Sounds like I saved myself a beating
Sounds like I saved myself a beating
Pretty epic morning. Most of the pack that was out looked like they wanted nothing to do with sets and I got one quickly, nothing special but a great start. Paddled south to the deeper peak and got a late drop, pulled around a section and into a solid barrel as far as this spot is concerned. I got a few more memorable ones but no more barrels. I lost my mojo after I went over the falls on a couple sizeable sets and finally accepted I just needed to take whatever comes in to make it to a work meeting on time. A nice peak rolls through, I take off deep, see the barrel section ahead..... and get snaked. He made the drop but not the barrel, pretty lame but doesn't take away from a great session.
I think this was only my third or fourth time riding my SL CK ghost, my previous one was 8.0 stringered. Definitely more pop than I remembered. It took me a few waves to adjust.
New asym from @MrSteve should be here today!
I think this was only my third or fourth time riding my SL CK ghost, my previous one was 8.0 stringered. Definitely more pop than I remembered. It took me a few waves to adjust.
New asym from @MrSteve should be here today!
I might start writing a few of these. We’ve had a really good run of waves here by usual Summer standards. Been surfing pretty much every day for as long as I can remember.
On New Years Day I got up early and scored some nice chest high rip bowl waves to myself at a local beach. Was having a blast until the new Apple Watch the missus got me for Christmas started playing up and calling emergency services. I had to get out of the water to sort it out, and it finally died. (Turns out water got in there somehow so it’s being examined). I’m pretty sure the missus only got it so she could call me in when she thinks of a chore. Anyway by the time I got back out a few people were up and started converging on my bank so I got a few more and came in. Rode my Neckbeard 2 which wasn’t really suited to the waves as it doesn’t flow that well backside without a good wall to work with.
Swell picked up the next day to probably HH+.5. Pretty straight East swell with a few close outs on the beach to navigate deterred a few of the holiday crowd (bloody Brisbane surfers!) enough. After a decent paddle out it was good vibes in the water with the local crew, calling each other in, hooting and whatnot. There were some decent sections of wall to work with before it closed out on the Shorey which was nice but you had to choose the right one that had a bit of a shoulder to not close out and a bit of wall to not just fizzle. There was the occasional barrel section from the bigger ones but I was never in position. Rode the neck beard again but wish I took my twinny to make the most of the walls - the takeoffs were easier than they looked.
last few days have been a bit scrappy as I’ve had kids to look after in the mornings before the wind hit. Managed a few shories on my NB one day which were fast and fun and allowed for a few good whacks. Yesterday I rode the Mini Pip at high tide but the wind was up and it was tough to find a good one. Managed a few decent sections and even popped a little air on my last wave in. Love how fast that board goes, the only downside is that it doesn’t get in early and there’s a little delay on the takeoff (it might be too short or undervolumed or something).
looks like a few days of high winds over the weekend and then next week some decent chest high swell and calmer winds to get into.
On New Years Day I got up early and scored some nice chest high rip bowl waves to myself at a local beach. Was having a blast until the new Apple Watch the missus got me for Christmas started playing up and calling emergency services. I had to get out of the water to sort it out, and it finally died. (Turns out water got in there somehow so it’s being examined). I’m pretty sure the missus only got it so she could call me in when she thinks of a chore. Anyway by the time I got back out a few people were up and started converging on my bank so I got a few more and came in. Rode my Neckbeard 2 which wasn’t really suited to the waves as it doesn’t flow that well backside without a good wall to work with.
Swell picked up the next day to probably HH+.5. Pretty straight East swell with a few close outs on the beach to navigate deterred a few of the holiday crowd (bloody Brisbane surfers!) enough. After a decent paddle out it was good vibes in the water with the local crew, calling each other in, hooting and whatnot. There were some decent sections of wall to work with before it closed out on the Shorey which was nice but you had to choose the right one that had a bit of a shoulder to not close out and a bit of wall to not just fizzle. There was the occasional barrel section from the bigger ones but I was never in position. Rode the neck beard again but wish I took my twinny to make the most of the walls - the takeoffs were easier than they looked.
last few days have been a bit scrappy as I’ve had kids to look after in the mornings before the wind hit. Managed a few shories on my NB one day which were fast and fun and allowed for a few good whacks. Yesterday I rode the Mini Pip at high tide but the wind was up and it was tough to find a good one. Managed a few decent sections and even popped a little air on my last wave in. Love how fast that board goes, the only downside is that it doesn’t get in early and there’s a little delay on the takeoff (it might be too short or undervolumed or something).
looks like a few days of high winds over the weekend and then next week some decent chest high swell and calmer winds to get into.
rare dawn patrol for me at reef #3. Was supposed to meet my neighbor out there but I didn't get into the water til 730, so figured I missed him. It was super foggy so couldn't see much. No lineup markers on shore. OH sets would pop up just outside of where the pack of 6 was sitting and we would scramble to the peak. Caught a meaty left just as I got outside. Tried to buck me off but I held on around a couple sections and got in 2 bside hacks on the 5'9x20 quad fish. Put the Rasta quads in and they held much better than the piggyback quads the other day- maybe due to the taller rears?.
Caught two HH rights that I expected to be quick closeouts, but surprisingly lined up for good longer rides with racy sections and walls to carve. Bit of a lull as everything seemed to back off so I got impatient and took an inside left... then had to duck dive an 8 wave set. Got pushed around. Decided to paddle north to the next peak. Those sets were backing off too, so I sat for 20 min, missed 3-4 waves and finally got a solid OH right in. I had a pretty late drop and some dude snaked me 20 ft down the line, he looked surprised when I yelled and he kicked out quickly as I did a nice carve, so didn't mess me up too much. Raced another section then one more fs slash, before it closed out and I rode it in. The wave faces were pretty lumpy out there, but fun start to the day.
I think maybe it's not swell or cold water that discourage the WFH hordes... it's fog! least crowded I've seen this spot for 10 months. You really couldn't see the waves from the cliff, so maybe they weren't willing to risk it.
Caught two HH rights that I expected to be quick closeouts, but surprisingly lined up for good longer rides with racy sections and walls to carve. Bit of a lull as everything seemed to back off so I got impatient and took an inside left... then had to duck dive an 8 wave set. Got pushed around. Decided to paddle north to the next peak. Those sets were backing off too, so I sat for 20 min, missed 3-4 waves and finally got a solid OH right in. I had a pretty late drop and some dude snaked me 20 ft down the line, he looked surprised when I yelled and he kicked out quickly as I did a nice carve, so didn't mess me up too much. Raced another section then one more fs slash, before it closed out and I rode it in. The wave faces were pretty lumpy out there, but fun start to the day.
I think maybe it's not swell or cold water that discourage the WFH hordes... it's fog! least crowded I've seen this spot for 10 months. You really couldn't see the waves from the cliff, so maybe they weren't willing to risk it.
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Was by myself yesterday, from dark for about 20 min. trying to figure out where to find a corner in pretty solid and mostly walled waves. Ended up finding a sizable right screamer and avoided detonation. Got back out andone other paddled out for the next 20, before 2 friends joined as well. That was it. Managed 2 more overhead rights that were not great but good, fast energy, then bellied one in unscathed. Today was a notch smaller and I surfed like a donkey, it got packed much earlier, and...nice morning at least.
Had a minor surgery on my eyelid. Doc said after don’t surf for 2 weeks. I’m like why didn’t you tell me beforehand. You are all welcome for the run of surf. I will probably last one or two more days. I mean I have 2 eyes right?
Agree on the fog comment. Paddled a fogged out reef yesterday and it was almost empty.....until the visibility showed.
a couple back to back fun afternoon sessions between swells. paddled at low tide and rode improving conditions with the push.
12-15' fun size. a couple oh sh!t moments on the outside and brutal inside marathons when you f'd your wave selection but all in all super stoked and tried as fuk.
insider corner had some of the best ones but man you rolled the dice sitting inside and deep on the bar.
friend had some bad timing in there. grabbed the second wave of like an 8 wave set. looked back and he was gone. about 10 minutes later somebody asked "hey, wheres b.?
chalk one up for bad decisions. he eventually made a second appearance. looking shell shocked, literally like 45 minutes later. im like " bro your back. did you bring snacks?"
for all the fun waves, i have to say that the low winter sun popping under the clouds and lighting up the hills on the long paddle in was the best part.
beautiful planet we got here.
12-15' fun size. a couple oh sh!t moments on the outside and brutal inside marathons when you f'd your wave selection but all in all super stoked and tried as fuk.
insider corner had some of the best ones but man you rolled the dice sitting inside and deep on the bar.
friend had some bad timing in there. grabbed the second wave of like an 8 wave set. looked back and he was gone. about 10 minutes later somebody asked "hey, wheres b.?
chalk one up for bad decisions. he eventually made a second appearance. looking shell shocked, literally like 45 minutes later. im like " bro your back. did you bring snacks?"
for all the fun waves, i have to say that the low winter sun popping under the clouds and lighting up the hills on the long paddle in was the best part.
beautiful planet we got here.
Solid run of days for me with some good tube time and some decent beatings. My biggest concern now is that I'm going to blow all my energy getting pitted on this nice overhead stuff and be completely out of gas by Monday when it's forecast to get up into the TOH range. I can already feel the fatigue paddling out now - just getting into the water feels like I've already put two hours in to each session.
another desperation sesh. it looked terrible. it was terrible.
my own fault for paddling out I suppose but i felt like I needed the exercise. got like 2-3 crappy turns and froze my ass off.
2021 pretty much sucks here so far surf-wise.
my own fault for paddling out I suppose but i felt like I needed the exercise. got like 2-3 crappy turns and froze my ass off.
2021 pretty much sucks here so far surf-wise.
Yeah, no Einstein Award for me. Had posted this in the 2020 thread, but here's to 2021 and new beginnings - and back to work for all the VAL kooks.
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NZ summer holidays. Spent 3 days on the North Island Hawkes Bay coast and surfed a secluded reef point by myself, and a righthand longboard point.
Then off to a peninsula farther north, surfing thumping beach break in crystal clear 70F water. A couple of goes at a renowned estuary bar too, very solid OH and perfect today. Small takeoff area and very talented locals, but got some excellent waves.
Lots of Bronze Whalers and Makos spotted just off the bar this week, and today a young woman was apparently fatally attacked just south of here. Yikes, but I still wont freak out.
Good times.
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NZ summer holidays. Spent 3 days on the North Island Hawkes Bay coast and surfed a secluded reef point by myself, and a righthand longboard point.
Then off to a peninsula farther north, surfing thumping beach break in crystal clear 70F water. A couple of goes at a renowned estuary bar too, very solid OH and perfect today. Small takeoff area and very talented locals, but got some excellent waves.
Lots of Bronze Whalers and Makos spotted just off the bar this week, and today a young woman was apparently fatally attacked just south of here. Yikes, but I still wont freak out.
Good times.
Yesterdays report: surfed a wave that looked really good on Tuesday but it had a lot of funk this session, major ribs on the face. Only got one where the inside barrel section appeared and I totally blew it. Still got some fun ones, rode my new to me album discord, it felt insanely fast. I don’t necessarily plan to ride it in overhead waves again, I’m willing to give up a bit of speed for some more control. However I am really looking forward to riding it in slightly smaller stuff, the built in speed seems epic.
Haha, yeah, nothing is easy these days.
But before Covid, NZ had 60000 net immigration pr year. You either applied via:
- a points system (highest score for being young, having a Uni degree, no record, long work experience, etc). Not easy, but definitely not impossible either.
- Investor's scheme. You had $xxx to invest in a business.
- Something else I forgot.
As a result, the NZ economy kept humming along, but house prices shot up, infrastructure fell way behind, and there were calls for a reduction in immigration.
which erbb’er is this? Note the lined velour changing poncho over tie dye pjs with ugg slippers. He also used a towel in addition to his surf Snuggie when he changed (yeah I watched). Rinse kit was not confirmed.
Swell seems a little smaller today despite the buoy reading being similar. Surfed the same reef again and it was a bit of a zoo with a ton of fog, maybe 20’ visibility at times. Mostly stuck to the deeper peak picking off runners as the “set” peak was filled with mid length wfh bros and salty old duus Dropping in on each other. Got a few good ones and got cold fast.