Rusty blackstix might work too. After all, the board is basically taken from the 84'
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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
took my step up out last night just to paddle it around pre trip.
caught a few fun waves hahaha
got some funny look for my board choice but idgaf ready tosurf some warm water barrels
caught a few fun waves hahaha
got some funny look for my board choice but idgaf ready tosurf some warm water barrels
was on my 6’7 the other night. Looking at forecast this baby is coming
bringing 4 boards and will adjust with swell conditions
6’4 x 18.5 x 2 1/4
Taking the step up out beforw a swell is a big brain move
cold and windy....gave it a shot anyway and wished i hadn't.
lots of paddling but few waves.
oh well.
lots of paddling but few waves.
oh well.
Spent 5 days on Vacation, waves sucked, never even considered pulling the board out. Yesterday, chanced the camera, was stocked on what I saw and left after a wfh zoomer. Drove down to ther reef and paddled out immediately. Caught a handful of jiblly to headhigh waves of the southerly persuasion, 3-5 wave sets. 150 yard rides, 6 peeps out. Besides the 1 sec chop, waves were fun. Lol, better than what I saw 1000 miles away.
Cool chit. The young dude that inspired me to paddle, came in and hit the shore as I was knee deep. I told him I watched him rip it up for 45 minutes on a camera, he grinned and was stocked.
Cool chit. The young dude that inspired me to paddle, came in and hit the shore as I was knee deep. I told him I watched him rip it up for 45 minutes on a camera, he grinned and was stocked.
Been down with the sickness the first part of this week but feeling mostly better today. Paddled out around 8 when the tide switched after seeing some fun ones. I was still out of it but got some fun ones in an hour session. the album disorder is fun chit, but I’m still not totally trusting of it on late drops For some reason. Missed a few really good set waves I would’ve easily had on a normal day But it was great to be in the water after about a week out.
Saw some peak hipness, old slightly oversized yellow dog speed dialer ridden by a hip duu in a Patagucci hooded suit with booties. I wore my 4:3 because I’ve been cold with whatever bug I have this week and I was running hot. No idea how he was surfing in that. He was surprisingly nice to me even after I burned him. He had missed a bunch of waves so of course when I finally go on him he makes it. Oh well.
Saw some peak hipness, old slightly oversized yellow dog speed dialer ridden by a hip duu in a Patagucci hooded suit with booties. I wore my 4:3 because I’ve been cold with whatever bug I have this week and I was running hot. No idea how he was surfing in that. He was surprisingly nice to me even after I burned him. He had missed a bunch of waves so of course when I finally go on him he makes it. Oh well.
offshore and better than expected this AM but all I could manage were a couple late drop closeouts.
one of those days
one of those days
Finally some waves! Stoked on this morning. Water starting to feel warm enough for a short arm!
WAVES! Waves I say! No south wind, final-fvcking-ly. Some decent ones coming through. Glorious morning for the first time in a long time. Nothing crazy but hot damn did it feel good.
Yeah I baked mid-morning. Fun SSW. Enough peaks to spread the pack.Finally some waves! Stoked on this morning. Water starting to feel warm enough for a short arm!
Ultra-efficient 35 min at the main reef as the tide peaked and started dropping. 20 guys out and onshore but way better than I expected. Stuck to grom-land on the inside peak. Caught about 10 wedging rights in first 20 min: late drop with the lip as it jacks up on the reef and then pull in for a coverup + get annihilated, or... fs slash, race down the line for a shore break snap/floater. Was having fun on the chunky Gremlin with MR twin + training wheel.
Then it got a bit wonky and dodged a couple closeout sets while the inside peaks started to get crossed up. After 10 min and no rides, a pack of 8 blonde frothing groms paddled out- headed right for my spot. so I called it and took one in.
Plenty warm in 2mil full. First time I’ve owned one and kinda diggin it. Feels like a 2nd skin.
Then it got a bit wonky and dodged a couple closeout sets while the inside peaks started to get crossed up. After 10 min and no rides, a pack of 8 blonde frothing groms paddled out- headed right for my spot. so I called it and took one in.
Plenty warm in 2mil full. First time I’ve owned one and kinda diggin it. Feels like a 2nd skin.
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ultra inefficient 2 hour morning sesh. took me like 20 min to put on the damp 6 mil. i have a sore shoulder from my first moderna shot yesterday but the waves looked good and i felt fine otherwise so i went for it. i also surfed last night right after the shot but the soreness hadn't kicked in yet i guess. the waves have been so consistent i'm losing track. rode the gbx and went back the DHD's after a couple sessions running the more upright HS1's. much prefer the more raked fins. at least on my backhand I like being able to draw the bottom turn out a bit more and get a better wind up through the upper body before launching an attack on the lip. the first half of my morning session went well. the conditions were superior on the lower tide. as it filled in a little wonky backwash bump developed on some of the waves. it was still fun but i was definitely hitting a wall physically. saw my girl jogging past on the beach so i took one in to say hi. i hadn't let her know i was surfing so i felt slightly busted but she was all blissed out on the first calm, warm day we've had in ages and seemed stocked for me. went back out for a couple more and then took her out for lunch.
i told myself i wasn't going to surf this evening but it's still so calm out...
i told myself i wasn't going to surf this evening but it's still so calm out...
Must be nice, you lucky bastard!
