***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

Havoc

Miki Dora status
May 23, 2016
4,204
4,013
113
in da hood next to paradise
nicee pics maz.

fun little peaks today with just me and my buddy. he was on a 10 year old fireturd sweet turd and was shredding. i was riding the 2nd best boar in existence being a parmenter stubb vector, the 1st is a gregory griffin modfish 5 fin with fins made for the boar. couple speed runs, couple 1/2 turns. i'll take it. want to get back on a shorter boar asap. clean conditions and beautiful sunny day. stocked! pray for surge!
 
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Aruka

Phil Edwards status
Feb 23, 2010
7,687
6,631
113
PNW
it was 30F outside when i got up at 5AM this morning. after eating and stretching I picked up a friend and drove North to surf some cold, brown, windswell peaks. crossed up and warbly with an occasional double up that peeled for a bit. i had left my wetsuit and booties in the car overnight so they were icebergs. between the wind and the long walk on freezing sand my toes were numb before i stood up on my first wave. this did not help my shred factor much. still, got a few fun drops, a couple moderately decent turns and one closeout barrel that thumped me harder than i expected. despite the overall lackluster session the fresh Stamps GBX felt pretty good and any errors were of my own doing.
 

oeste858

Michael Peterson status
Sep 11, 2017
2,019
3,957
113
San Diego, CA
Well, since SBD took my only board to "demo", I dusted off one that kinda fell through the cracks and hasn't been ridden much. Boardhoarding 101: never get two boards at the same time- the one you're less excited about will always get neglected. Maybe my 3rd or 4th surf on the El Tomo quad XTR in SL-C, grovel dims. I guess I missed the morning tide window for the reefs, so journeyed north of the pier to meet a buddy. Gnarly rip and I felt like I was always between 2 peaks even paddling like crazy to stay in the spot. Man, BBs are a lot of work. Finally let the current take us north a bit, and lucked into a fun peak. Waist to chest high windswell rights, some long ones through the inside. El Tomo with rasta quads surfed like you'd expect from a HP fish: fast down the line, easy to whip around, nice frontside slashes, a couple quick headdips on the inside.
Water was cooking... was boiling in my 3mil the whole time. Time for 2mil already?? I just took off my booties yesterday!

My personal best fanciest wax job yet:
DEC920D3-4B13-4F47-A2D9-78B84C2FDEB8.jpeg
Yes, I know... the lawn has seen better days ;)
 
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silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
26,174
5,862
113
Tower 13
Well, since SBD took my only board to "demo", I dusted off one that kinda fell through the cracks and hasn't been ridden much. Boardhoarding 101: never get two boards at the same time- the one you're less excited about will always get neglected. Maybe my 3rd or 4th surf on the El Tomo quad XTR in SL-C, grovel dims. I guess I missed the morning tide window for the reefs, so journeyed north of the pier to meet a buddy. Gnarly rip and I felt like I was always between 2 peaks even paddling like crazy to stay in the spot. Man, BBs are a lot of work. Finally let the current take us north a bit, and lucked into a fun peak. Waist to chest high windswell rights, some long ones through the inside. El Tomo with rasta quads surfed like you'd expect from a HP fish: fast down the line, easy to whip around, nice frontside slashes, a couple quick headdips on the inside.
Water was cooking... was boiling in my 3mil the whole time. Time for 2mil already?? I just took off my booties yesterday!

My personal best fanciest wax job yet:
View attachment 107698
Yes, I know... the lawn has seen better days ;)
see, I did you a favor :) water was warm. i'll bet it was a tick warmer where you were if we're thinking of the same pier.
 

sdsrfr

Billy Hamilton status
Jul 13, 2020
1,509
2,498
113
San Diego
Boardhoarding 101: never get two boards at the same time- the one you're less excited about will always get neglected.
been there, done this. only matters if they have overlapping wave range, me thinks.

I ignored my banjo fish for almost a year bc I orested my flare at the same time. ended up liking the banjo more overall but man it took a while to stop being afraid of a new-boar-skunk-session bc of how few surfs it had.
 

CutnSnip

Michael Peterson status
Sep 11, 2018
2,567
2,029
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
pretty fun this a.m. in SLA. waters warming up! a little wonky and lumpy but consistent pop up corners everywhere in the chest to shoulder range that would line up to a racy little inside bowl. lots of opportunity to work on my cutbacks and smoothing that sh!t out. crowded but manageable, got burned a couple times by the same musclehead dork but was able to return the favor and the redemption felt sweet, especially when he got pissy with me and i just started and shook my head while a couple of the regulars laughed. took out the flare with medium wcts. probs woulda been epic on the midlength.
 

retodd

Duke status
Feb 23, 2009
16,694
1,935
113
Fun dawn patrol on the osprey
Thigh to chest windswell peaks, the left double ups were gold and I got a few turns, floats, and head dips .

0 dark thirty had the goods , by 7 it was wtf crowded lol
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,191
912
113
Oceanside, CA
Pretty awful mid-morning sesh yesterday, but had to get in the ocean.
Flipped the VS mid over the back of a lame wave and it went straight up, threatening
to kill me on the way down. Dove under and the tail nailed my foot/big toe as it penetrated...now
I have a disgusting black and purple toe/foot but lucky it didn't slice me. I managed a few crappy
runners with a couple turns each, but nothing great. The wetsuit change of a few hot females
on the way out of the lot was more fun than the waves, actually.
 

Senor Sopa

Nep status
Mar 11, 2015
611
685
93
Ponto
Way down, bottom of all the California, view from the balconey. Never seen it so flat. One guy out, that wave is waist high at most. LOL, He missed the whole "set". Pretty sure I will not be participating today.

1618152196424.png
 

Aruka

Phil Edwards status
Feb 23, 2010
7,687
6,631
113
PNW
this weekend was sick. locals only left was basically all time. rode the new stampers gbx and it felt great. water is still stupidly cold and the winds added another level of chill that i wasn't too stoked about but the waves were good enough that it was worth the burning fingers and the numb toes. hot water poured into the booties and gloves before the dawn patrol has been the baller move.

this morning before work i got a little quicky in but it was nothing special. the swell had dropped to basically grovel size and the wind wasn't great. floating around in the pre dawn chill, the ugly brown ocean lulling, i felt like kind of an idiot. luckily once the tide started to push a few bumpy little nuggets peeled through and i got a few snaps and one good feeling roundhouse. ran HS1's in the gbx and it felt pretty good in the tight little pockets.
 

oeste858

Michael Peterson status
Sep 11, 2017
2,019
3,957
113
San Diego, CA
Most marginal of windswell on midday dropping tide at a little out of the way reef. But I just had to get wet after dropping the inlaws off at the airport. 5'6 mitsven tkf did the best any boar could. Some steep wedges over shallow reef, trying to get across crumbly sections. Even though the waves today were short and choppy, every time I surf the small boards at a spot like that (where I don't have to paddle a long way out) and can just late drop in to wedges, I'm reminded why I love em. IMG_5610.jpeg
 

b.r.

Miki Dora status
Dec 19, 2003
5,322
1,223
113
Leucadia
m.youtube.com
surfed for the first time in a week after a procedure on my bad wing and a trip up the coast to visit my kid in college, took the l.b. and with the shark signs that have been up and the wonky conditions I ended up surfing by myself on the l.b. catching a bunch of longgggg waves, nothing special but a solo session at this spot is rare so I will take it.