45F waterfalls are muy sensual
Aruka 1st shot I felt soreness but 2nd shot nurse told me to open car door and relax arm on side and I felt no soreness 2nd shot
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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Aruka 1st shot I felt soreness but 2nd shot nurse told me to open car door and relax arm on side and I felt no soreness 2nd shot
Wasn't going to go this morning because of the wind but my ol' surf buddy from my surf flop house days seems to have the bug lately so I can't say no. Hit the beach to avoid the crowds. The tide was too low at first but it started to open up by the end but didn't really get anything I'd normally consider a wave. Still good to see my friend getting out again, I loaned him my old Banjo and you can tell it's a game changer for him. It's his first time riding any sort of "modern" fish with updated foils and non-double foil keels.
missed the morning window. midday high tide with the slightest onshore breeze. checked the main reef but 30 guys... and another 20 at reef#2- no thanks. Hit up a lesser-known ledgy summer reef for some waist-chest high grinders. 3 other guys + a bodyboarder out. I sat inside and tried to pick up the short reform right in the middle of the little bay/inlet. Rode the 5'10 El Tomo fish XTR SL-C with Rasta quads. Got a few airdrops, couple fs slashes. The ones that lined up too far across, you had to kick out suddenly before you ran into the rock shelf. Got pitched on a couple late drops. Pulled in for the briefest chandelier vision on a couple... got worked. I don't surf this spot often anymore and forgot how much of a punch it packs when it breaks. Pummeled a couple times underwater, think I took my fin in my back at one point and came up with the leash wrapped around my torso and shoulder.
A couple guys out the back on Evos were having good luck with the outside left, but I only had 30 min so stayed inside. I swear one of the evos looked like my old xtr stringerless with the blue stripe but the guys were both wearing strapped on hats and solidly average surfers, so I didn't engage. LOL. But in hindsight, a shorter (like 5'6) tkf or tomo probably would've navigated the ledgy waves today a bit easier than the 5'10.
Ended up being a sunny afternoon so was nice to get out in the water for a quick one. TGIF
Saltwater's been pouring out my nose since I got home, so not the most covert op, but the wife hasn't asked if I went surfing, yet.
A couple guys out the back on Evos were having good luck with the outside left, but I only had 30 min so stayed inside. I swear one of the evos looked like my old xtr stringerless with the blue stripe but the guys were both wearing strapped on hats and solidly average surfers, so I didn't engage. LOL. But in hindsight, a shorter (like 5'6) tkf or tomo probably would've navigated the ledgy waves today a bit easier than the 5'10.
Ended up being a sunny afternoon so was nice to get out in the water for a quick one. TGIF
Saltwater's been pouring out my nose since I got home, so not the most covert op, but the wife hasn't asked if I went surfing, yet.
back in the water. small windswell on the plasmic. I think i'm surfing with my back foot too far back. Last wave (best) felt much better with back foot up a few inches.
some fun ones this a.m. in NOC. chest high sets, consistent and fun. decent crowd but plnety of waves to go round. wind was having a personality disorder but lots of running lefts with fun little sections to bounce off. Flare delivers again, but i think it may be time for a refresh already. water felt warm af too. 3/2 time baby!
^ Ditto 2-4'ish uber glassy slight offshore early, southwest wind by 9:00. Combo broken lines and a few wind swell bowl-y ones
made a couple true top to bottom smacks. 6-2 four channel twinzer feeling smooth and connected
made a couple true top to bottom smacks. 6-2 four channel twinzer feeling smooth and connected
Got out with the same buddy again. Decided to hit some less well known summer reefs. light Crowd but unintentionally hilarious. when it’s good this spot can be kind of localized but today was kook zone with only a handful of people who knew what they were doing. Two dudes in matching long Johns paddled out on a mini Log and what looked like a MOTE mid twin thing. Both borderline or actually out of control but talking about board design and taking any set that came near them. Then my buddy was surfing the south peak by himself and three duuus paddling way back on their boards paddled out and surrounded him. They party waved every wave and were inconsistent on making pop ups, my buddy was obviously stoked. Then Some hip duu paddled straight out to me on the peak and took the first set the came on one of those Werner foam alia, went over the falls and lost his board. I had fun though, soft but occasional Good sections.
I prefer it when someone shows their level right off the bat. I will always give someone inside of me the benefit of the doubt the first time. but if they miss the wave, or don’t make the drop/section, or kook out... I have zero qualms to drop in after that if they’re not taking turns. Can just say “oh sorry, I didn’t think you were gonna make it again”
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junky windswell this morning on a crappy bar. Made the best of it with a few turns on the gx, big boy gx requires more input to shred (duh it's bigger) but it feels more stable and very well balanced.
Had a nice arc to downward tail drift but didn't recover. Gave me a nice feel for it frontside.
Had a nice arc to downward tail drift but didn't recover. Gave me a nice feel for it frontside.
peaky windswell at a reef. parmy vector ftw. couple carves n floats. fun!
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Surfed Waddell reefs on Saturday and Sunday, early mornings. South was still coming in nicely but the water was absolutely freezing.
Got crowded on Sunday.
Got crowded on Sunday.
drove down from the bay to ventura county for the week yesterday afternoon, just enough traffic to be annoying the whole way and the wind was up everywhere I checked. ended up surfing the pismo pier. few little thigh S sets and a distinct little sandbar peak. not good at all but just nice to get in the water.
been really nice weather and the water had been warming up, but apparently my decision to wear the old 2mil short sleeve was NOT the call today after last nights wind, must have been a lot of upwelling, it felt pretty cold, surfed for an hour and a half and got some fun waves despite being kind of cold the whole time.
Sounds like someone’s identified a gap in their wetsuit quiver! LOL
Never knew I needed on before, but as of 2 weeks ago, I’m now 2mil fullsuit fo life! YMMV
Surfed the past days on Fresno’s old WTF, which was loaned to me by the lurker that bought it off of here. Fun board and got a handful of pretty fun waves on it yesterday that got a few compliments from some regulars, but also some kook moments. Yesterday got stupid crowded, so I kept moving to find a tiny zone where 3 people weren’t dropping in, and did ok. Today I was by myself for about 15 min and, although there were some waves, they avoided me. Most wouldn’t break at all, and then a bigger set wave would jack and huck outside. Mostly frustrating, but got a few. It was crazy cold! Felt colder than any winter water this year and every person said they were freezing...local wind upwelling from yesterday I guess.
Autumn is well and truly here. Water is still warm but the sun isn't blisteringly hot. Had a few days off offshores into the mid afternoon as well. A few weeks ago I picked up a second hand Jim Banks Keel Fish in great condition for a really good price. I wasn't looking to buy another board but couldn't go past this one.
Took it out for a few grovely days at the local on a left hand rip bowl thats been working. Had some nice moments, plenty of speed and drive for swooping cutbacks. Over the last few days I've gone on a bit of a search and found a good bank with shoulder high / head high runners at a bit of a quiet spot. Nice easy take offs, a bit of a walled up section then it races away toward the shore with plenty of speed. It's been an absolute blast. Loving the different feeling of a keel fish, never really ridden a keel before. Loves to take a high line and then drop down with plenty of speed for a bit of a bottom turn and carve off the top. Surprisingly it has also been good lining up little barrels in the shorey, i've made a few I shouldn't have.
Took it out for a few grovely days at the local on a left hand rip bowl thats been working. Had some nice moments, plenty of speed and drive for swooping cutbacks. Over the last few days I've gone on a bit of a search and found a good bank with shoulder high / head high runners at a bit of a quiet spot. Nice easy take offs, a bit of a walled up section then it races away toward the shore with plenty of speed. It's been an absolute blast. Loving the different feeling of a keel fish, never really ridden a keel before. Loves to take a high line and then drop down with plenty of speed for a bit of a bottom turn and carve off the top. Surprisingly it has also been good lining up little barrels in the shorey, i've made a few I shouldn't have.
feels like its back to "normal" after half a decade of fall in the spring conditions. windy as fuk means cold as fuk.Coldest Spring in a while here.
need a new hobby for the next few months. good for the kelp though so there is that
junky'ish but bigger and better than I thought. gotto push the fuse at its upper end. not great but definitely a lot better than expected.