Took a few pics of "Cracks" last night. This is way, way farther out than the fun waves I've been describing.
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Snuck out after dropping the little one off at pre-school and before work started.
Couldn't see the waves at all due to the fog.......just had to trust the buoys.
Rode the gimmick and slalomed my way through a few really fun sections. A couple waves stood up and I was able to get some nice hits.
Lately, I've been trying to channel my inner Matt Banting by trying to hit right where the wave is cresting on my roundhouse rebounds. Had one today that felt good.
Couldn't see the waves at all due to the fog.......just had to trust the buoys.
Rode the gimmick and slalomed my way through a few really fun sections. A couple waves stood up and I was able to get some nice hits.
Lately, I've been trying to channel my inner Matt Banting by trying to hit right where the wave is cresting on my roundhouse rebounds. Had one today that felt good.
Nooner at the beachbreak. Waist high, no wind, and surprisingly clean but weak. Sets closing out in 20-30 yard sections. Looked like it should've been good, but always felt like I was on the wrong side of the peak or in the middle of a closeout section. Most waves were just a race to try to beat the section crashing down. my 3rd wave I thought it looked clean enough that I could've gotten a coverup. So naturally, I spent the next 30 min pulling in and trying to fold my inflexible 6' frame under the curtain. Some travel time squatting in there and even managed one doggy door. I'm sure it all looked ridiculous. Mostly surfed by myself or with 1 or 2 other guys, as there were peaks all up and down the beach. Kept trying to find the end of the section to take off on in search of some shoulder, but really only got 3-4 lefts with open face. LOTS of backside floaters (pretended I was Pottz with his bullseye BH boards, neoprene shorts, and hairy back). Managed to lose the handle on a rock n roll railside and fell all the way down to faceplant in the trough. Felt like I got slapped upside the head. Kookoftheday.
Finally took out the blue Stamps EPS Fuse I borrowed from SBD. I can see why the board is popular. It felt like a fish with pulled in swallow which allowed for tight shreds. I had a couple bs snaps on one wave that had a shoulder that felt really sharp. I think SBD used it as his groveler, but I could see it as my DD at the reefs/points. Surfs similar to my double wing Mitsven quad fish, R. Smoothie, and a couple other boards I have... otherwise I wouldn't give it back to him.
Finally took out the blue Stamps EPS Fuse I borrowed from SBD. I can see why the board is popular. It felt like a fish with pulled in swallow which allowed for tight shreds. I had a couple bs snaps on one wave that had a shoulder that felt really sharp. I think SBD used it as his groveler, but I could see it as my DD at the reefs/points. Surfs similar to my double wing Mitsven quad fish, R. Smoothie, and a couple other boards I have... otherwise I wouldn't give it back to him.
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Got a winter spot with soft summer waves all to myself for sunset last night. Got a dozen waist high burgers but there were some fun sections. Gorgeous sunset too.
got my loot fixed up and back in action. surfed a secret beachy spot that usually makes the most of a nw swell and doesn't mind the high tide. it ended up being much better than anticipated. sand is set up really nicely. every once in a while a set would come through that was twice as big as the normal sets. of course i was never in position to catch one. still got some fun ones though. couple right choobs and some lefts that stood up for a few turns. water dropped like 5 degrees in past two days. my feet froze!
Paddled the new 6’0 HIC Kerry Tokoro M7 out to the regular in the dark. Jerome asked what board is that an MZ? I turned the board up so he could see the model logo and I hit the nose on one of the dawn patrollers truck. Luckily no ding but gave me that magic feeling. All my best board get beat up pretty fast sometimes before it even hits the water.
New swell and high tide so there were long lulls. But the sets had a handful of waves in each one and there was good push. Head high plus. Good direction. The new board surfs really good. Fast, goes vert, gets on rail. Rode the medium H4’s and that base is covered. Clicked with the board right off the bat. Gonna be a good DD for the NS regular up to a few feet overhead.
New swell and high tide so there were long lulls. But the sets had a handful of waves in each one and there was good push. Head high plus. Good direction. The new board surfs really good. Fast, goes vert, gets on rail. Rode the medium H4’s and that base is covered. Clicked with the board right off the bat. Gonna be a good DD for the NS regular up to a few feet overhead.
Maybe like 51-52F right now. I've been wearing some crappy old booties because for a couple weeks it was super warm like 58-59F. Which is about as warm as it gets around here. The coldest it gets consistently is 45F but I've seen 43F a few times.
yeah any time the winds die down it drifts up from the CA fires I think. it's not terrible like it was though, i can't smell it or anything.
My local crowd here 805 would quit surfing or wear a dry suit up North. Here at 66F 4/3 and booties and hood
When I was in northern oregon last week the first two days were crystal clear, then the wind changed so it came back somewhat but much higher in the air so it wasn't really a nuisance, you could just see it.
surfed small and semi funky waves this morning at the local. Wasn't consistent and I just couldn't get into the groove. Paddled down the beach in hopes of something different (and I was cold in my 2ml) and started finding some ok waves. fuse did what is needed to do. Get fat guy into waves but still rip when the section presented itself.
Paddled the 6’0 out in the dark at the south shore regular. It was firing in the dark and I got a couple of long waves before first light. By the time the crowd paddled out at day break the high tide made it lully. Waves were fun when they came in. A handful in each set. A couple feet overhead for my midget stature, kinda south, good push but a few lemons mixed in. Fell in a barrel that was almond and hit me in the head and as I loss speed it went round. Kinda bummed on that one. Davey Boy said I should’ve stayed higher instead of stall at the bottom. Oh well. Got some coaching by a legend.
Saw a bunch of rippers when I went in. Bam and Dane Gudang were paddling out and Billy Kemper wasn’t far behind.
Saw a bunch of rippers when I went in. Bam and Dane Gudang were paddling out and Billy Kemper wasn’t far behind.
back to the same bar. swell filled in a bit more. little foggy but not bad. glassy and tubing. rode my Gallagher round pin first session. surfed a bar further north that had a wedging right breaking a little further out. got some of my best waves of this year easily. the good ones had a barrel off the peak and then a running wall to tee off on through the inside. one of my best waves was just four snaps in a row. overhead, powerful and just perfectly paced for a deep bottom turn to vert hack off over and over. 2nd session the tide had filled in a bit and my magic bar was losing it's steepness so we went back to the bar we surfed yesterday. i probably should have ridden the Gally again but I've been wanting to get the round tail Patterson IF15 out in some good waves for a while so I took it out. first half an hour I kinda struggled. board felt so stiff and i couldn't seem to find the tail kick with my rear hoof. the wave was kind of going through some tidal change as well which made the right kind of close out. my buddy was on the left just harvesting so finally i joined him and got a couple fun turn waves. on my wave back out an inside double up right came and I got a good tube. paddled back out and made note of some lineup markers. played that zone to great effect for the next couple hours. mostly running right barrels, some of which would double up through the inside and offer up some very open, beautiful glassy caverns. my buddy came down and joined me on the peak and it was fairly non stop action. mostly tubes but I got a few end section hits that felt good and the board wasn't letting me down. before i knew it it was getting dark and my buddy was climbing the muddy cliff back to our trucks. waited for a decent one to go in on.
overall pretty much an epic fall day. smaller tomorrow but I have to work anyways. maybe an evening sesh!
overall pretty much an epic fall day. smaller tomorrow but I have to work anyways. maybe an evening sesh!
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My friend Yuko texted me some pics from yesterday and today riding the HIC Kerry Tokoro M7. 
Yesterday looked really good on the swell models, but nothing happened. Too westerly.
Today was onshore and messy closeouts, but overhead and sunny, and it was my 57th birthday so I had a go. Took my 6'10 DS and pretty much just did late drops into bottom turn then a brief foam climb or floater to disintegration.
Sort of type 2 fun, but still a good time.
Today was onshore and messy closeouts, but overhead and sunny, and it was my 57th birthday so I had a go. Took my 6'10 DS and pretty much just did late drops into bottom turn then a brief foam climb or floater to disintegration.
Sort of type 2 fun, but still a good time.
happy birthday mate. always a treat to surf on your birthday I reckon.
hope you get to have a delicious meal and a good beer or whatever you fancy.