*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

MathDebater

Nep status
Apr 13, 2016
786
1,163
93
SD
Showed up right as the wind kicked up due to work meetings. As I ran down to the water, I saw a guy get a sick little barrel so my stock was high. No barrels for me but ended up getting a handful of fast pump-pump-pump big turn on the end waves in 45 minutes, no complaints there! Tried out my new wetsuit top and realized it doesn't have a waist cinch, doh! Apparently the large was for duu's with big ipa bellys because it was filling up under the slightest pressure. Bummer, bought it final sale too. Materials feels great too, might try to modify it.
 

chilly1

OTF status
Jan 4, 2010
342
288
63
Dawn patrol frontside R reef Sat waist to chest plus and clean. Some other guy caught 6 waves in a row as walke to and paddled out to my little boil. I missed a couple then it went slow and weird for next 2 hours, got couple rail slashes on my Short Round bout it, skunked.
Sunday same size but looked junk from night wind, took out mid length Townsend and happy surprise caught 5 really fun racy walls and cutty to reform mushy walls waves in 20 min then it went funky with a few more descent rides in between. Thick fog came in super fast and created what I will call a fogbow?, never seen one before but it lasted an hour was pretty cool! Whales and seals in the line up too. Got cold/stiff and then the new swell came I think and got drilled 3 HH+ sets in a row ducking the mid length and called it. Pretty standard but still leaving a lot to be desired for Nor Cal Fall so far (besides the fogbow).
 

Iceman

Phil Edwards status
Apr 1, 2002
6,089
372
83
NorCenCal
Surfed in Rice's neck of the woods this past weekend. Saturday morning was fun, offshore all morning, waist-shoulder high and some mostly lefts but some rights as well. There were people but relatively spread out, and they kept moving around so I just kept finding the holes in the crowd. Waves were breaking everywhere so eventually a wave would come to you.

Today I surfed some pretty walled beachbreak and howling offshore just north of yesterday's spot. I managed to stroke into the diamond-in-the-rough left barrel. It ran pretty quick and started closing down after I travelled a ways, I couldn't see the exit and headed for what I thought would be an easy doggy-door. Unfortunately I was up a big higher on the wave than I though and came out a little too steep and went down. Oh well. Fun weekend on the Central Coast.
 

Aruka

Phil Edwards status
Feb 23, 2010
7,291
4,842
113
PNW
paddled at the kelpy reef alone. the fog was thick so it was hard to tell from shore what was really going on out there. i knew there was about 10 feet of swell on the buoy so I went out there to see what was up. it ended up being pretty big and the tide was a little low so the kelp was a big factor. got a couple kinda fun ones right off the bat and then things went steadily downhill. it was impossible to see shore so I couldn't figure out my lineups. some wide swinging sets started rolling through and I didn't enjoy duckdiving big walls of whitewater while being surrounded by long kelp whips. stubbornly stuck it out for half an hour trying to get a rideable wave to go in on but ended up getting tossed on a couple late drops and finally just gave up and bellied one through minefield of partially exposed rocks on the inside.

startled an old man walking his dog on the beach as I emerged from the ocean. where did you come from?!
 

rice

Duke status
Jul 2, 2002
23,716
838
113
CA
Surfed in Rice's neck of the woods this past weekend. Saturday morning was fun, offshore all morning, waist-shoulder high and some mostly lefts but some rights as well. There were people but relatively spread out, and they kept moving around so I just kept finding the holes in the crowd. Waves were breaking everywhere so eventually a wave would come to you.

Today I surfed some pretty walled beachbreak and howling offshore just north of yesterday's spot. I managed to stroke into the diamond-in-the-rough left barrel. It ran pretty quick and started closing down after I travelled a ways, I couldn't see the exit and headed for what I thought would be an easy doggy-door. Unfortunately I was up a big higher on the wave than I though and came out a little too steep and went down. Oh well. Fun weekend on the Central Coast.
Nice! I got fun waves on Saturday, twice on Sunday, and then the best day was Monday; overhead, offshore, and hollow. Found a little zone all to myself. Rode the 5'11" Album utf.

Was a very good weekend.
 

Havoc

Miki Dora status
May 23, 2016
3,850
3,204
113
in da hood next to paradise
paddled at the kelpy reef alone. the fog was thick so it was hard to tell from shore what was really going on out there. i knew there was about 10 feet of swell on the buoy so I went out there to see what was up. it ended up being pretty big and the tide was a little low so the kelp was a big factor. got a couple kinda fun ones right off the bat and then things went steadily downhill. it was impossible to see shore so I couldn't figure out my lineups. some wide swinging sets started rolling through and I didn't enjoy duckdiving big walls of whitewater while being surrounded by long kelp whips. stubbornly stuck it out for half an hour trying to get a rideable wave to go in on but ended up getting tossed on a couple late drops and finally just gave up and bellied one through minefield of partially exposed rocks on the inside.

startled an old man walking his dog on the beach as I emerged from the ocean. where did you come from?!
du prly thought u were like a mer-man and chit!
 
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CutnSnip

Michael Peterson status
Sep 11, 2018
2,078
1,445
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
Soft clean peaks close to home on the flare. Couple chest highish sets but pretty weak overall with the rising tide.Pretty crowded but i found my holes.

I managed to run over someone, got run over, got dropped in on by the same guy twice, and then returned the favor to him twice. He looked confused by the sitch all together. Had a couple fun runners, just pumping down the line for the speed runs and one big frontside hack with a hint of a layback on the closeout shorebreak section. Water and air felt as good as it gets for this time of year, overall a beautiful morning minus the kooky sh!t in the water.
 

Iceman

Phil Edwards status
Apr 1, 2002
6,089
372
83
NorCenCal
Nice! I got fun waves on Saturday, twice on Sunday, and then the best day was Monday; overhead, offshore, and hollow. Found a little zone all to myself. Rode the 5'11" Album utf.

Was a very good weekend.

Yes, I meant Sunday for the first session. Surfed later that afternoon when the wind came up and it was still fun. Monday was definitely nice and hollow! Probably could have found a spot with better corners but at least the crowd wasn't bad.

Went for a sweet mountain bike ride Saturday morning before it got too hot. Definitely a great weekend!
 
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rice

Duke status
Jul 2, 2002
23,716
838
113
CA
Yes, I meant Sunday for the first session. Surfed later that afternoon when the wind came up and it was still fun. Monday was definitely nice and hollow! Probably could have found a spot with better corners but at least the crowd wasn't bad.

Went for a sweet mountain bike ride Saturday morning before it got too hot. Definitely a great weekend!
Stoked. Probably just missed you in the water.
 

sdsurfrat

Michael Peterson status
Jun 2, 2008
2,327
365
83
always wanted a mabile twinzer fish

Maybe get a GH, he makes a Twinzer fish that looks like this w/more foiled out rails, goes unreal.:jamon:
OTF ( R.I.P. ) had a green GH Twinzer fish, it was his favorite!
Rice had one too i think.
Go glass ons.