*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

[teeroi]

Had a fun session today. Waves were head high on some sets. Glassy a little East. Rode the Vesso Twin. Board is fast made some deep sections but it’s hard to stall for tubes. Did manage a barrel after going around a friend. I thought it would pinch but was open.

Sone pics From yesterday.
Jeannie Chesser


Davin Jamie


Gregg Nakamura

 

[SeaFoamGreen]

Have had some surfs after exactly 8 weeks dry. Got tired of watching peps on cams and hearing reports of other heads making the drive as well as hearing about coasties driving around to some extent to surf and recreate. Governors orders are pretty much voluntary and my usual routine involves social distancing anyways. I have places to stay, don't need to stop for gas, and almost always bring my own food. I am healthy and have been quarantined for some time. Not to mention a buddy and I surfed alone, 2 out of 3 sessions which ranged from onshore dogshit, to typical OR wonkyness, to small but rippable. It's back to my regular weekly surf sched unless there's some crazy uptick, and I am planning on a trip down the coast here soon. We did a good job here and even in PDX it has not been bad at all in comparison. I know 2 nurses who have not seen any new cases in some time, like since early April. Time to get that wave count up before it goes flatskis.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

57? I was gonna make a joke about being jealous but damn, that's pretty cold and near to the temps here right now.

Yesterday had an evening sesh at the local on my 6'1 Patterson Stock-ed. Pretty stock-ed on this board. Waves were slow but fun when they came. Waist to chest high for the most part. Everyone was out of position for the one head high+ set that rolled through. Hoping the swell angle just wasn't right and that it isn't our sand bar that is the cause for this slightly underwhelming S swell. Just locals and one valley soft topper who stayed off the peak. He still got chewed out (not by me) for coming all this way when the governer's orders still say to recreate in your own neighborhood. Got like ten fun ones in an hour and a half and then called it. Ended on my best wave which is rare.

yeah headaches cold. butit warmed up throughout the session. It was probably 66-67 two days before

 

[racer1]

Haven't seen Davin in years. See Gregg too much.

 

[000]

today i went to my spot way down the beach alone. as usual
first wave was a clean dry tube-i even did a self hoot- and plenty to do after
got a few more and it seemed to be gettin worse, swell dyin
friend came out, then 2 idiots that discovered my place yesterday came back and sat right next to me again. i think theyll be back every day for the rest of their lives. water was freezing in a crappy fullsuit.
got worse and worse as more idiots came out, its the new kook spot now. they ignore the miles of empty beach to surf by me. i was gone by 630 ['

 

[oeste858]

Jumbled chest-high surf yesterday near the south of SD. Not much wind but like everywhere else, looked awful from the lookout above, but bigger & punchier in the lineup. Wrong board (6' CC CafeRacer roundtail better for point surf), wrong fins (couldn't find the TW quads). Water was freezing in s/s 2 mil. so wax was rock hard & front foot slid off on first 2 waves; not wanting to split my groin, I played it conservative after that with a safety stance. Most waves went: steep drop with the lip, then crumbly section dump, fizzle out. Caught maybe 10 in an hour. Some fun drops, lots of water moving around and lots of paddling. So every excuse in the book for a bad sesh, but still, got to catch up with a buddy with just 2 other guys out, and it was a beautiful sunny morning. Hope water warms back up!

 

[obslop]

clean, organized and fun wind swell peaks with odd larger south swell set. not as hollow as yesterday and got clamped on what i thought was an easy make but went quad today and had a few quick speed lines with fast lip hits.

then i got cold and stiff and surfed all crappy toward the end. yew.

forgot to add - water is now 60F - just like Oregon! Freezing.

 

[CutnSnip]

Drained out small windswell this a.m. in south bay. none of that new SSW showing at all and it was super crowded with people Ive never seen before and lots of what seemed like first timers.. couple of closeout visions and I called it.. better than doing another online HIIT class by a mile though.

 

[gbg]

clean, organized and fun wind swell peaks with odd larger south swell set. not as hollow as yesterday and got clamped on what i thought was an easy make but went quad today and had a few quick speed lines with fast lip hits.

then i got cold and stiff and surfed all crappy toward the end. yew.

forgot to add - water is now 60F - just like Oregon! Freezing.

No way the water is 60. Drove an hour and still on it at first light. Me and my friend had it by ourselves for an hour. Overhead sets but funky NW swell ruining it. Coulda been good. Towards the end of my session I went 20 minutes without catching a wave and I got stiff. I had 2 guys say I wish I had your hood.

 

[Aruka]

clean, organized and fun wind swell peaks with odd larger south swell set. not as hollow as yesterday and got clamped on what i thought was an easy make but went quad today and had a few quick speed lines with fast lip hits.

then i got cold and stiff and surfed all crappy toward the end. yew.

forgot to add - water is now 60F - just like Oregon! Freezing.

I wish. Last time the water got over 60F here was one strange June like 8 years ago. I trunked it for a few waves just for the novelty factor.

 

[oeste858]

My reefs were just not happening, so I ventured to our crowded beachbreak. Took 15 min to find parking spot. There's few things I dislike more in surfing than having to dodge big closeout sets, and I realized how spoiled I am surfing spots with channels or easy paddleouts.
I totally redeemed myself for yesterday's bog session, with a fun efficient 25 min at local beachie: 6 waves, 3-4 snaps per wave, 1 closeout tunnel. Felt more "in tune" and was better prepared today. 5'9" Tomo SP2 in XTR was perfect to race the punchy shoulder-high walls. Good to be reminded that it's probably my funnest board in semi-decent waves. Had grabbed my shredded-to-swiss-cheese smoothie top 4/3 full and was just about warm enough. Stock.ed.

 

[teeroi]

Dawned Bowls. Was a little smaller than yesterday but cleaner. Waves were almost head high and fast. Lots of racing thru steep sections and looking for a corner to lay into. Rode the Tokoro X2. I had good rhythm and got a bunch of sets and insiders at first. When the tide dropped the waves got inconsistent. It got crowded too, but the regulars were getting the best waves. Not sure if I’m going to take a break tomorrow morning but it been a fun run of south swell. More on the way.

 

[gbg]

Dawned Bowls. Was a little smaller than yesterday but cleaner. Waves were almost head high and fast. Lots of racing thru steep sections and looking for a corner to lay into. Rode the Tokoro X2. I had good rhythm and got a bunch of sets and insiders at first. When the tide dropped the waves got inconsistent. It got crowded too, but the regulars were getting the best waves. Not sure if I’m going to take a break tomorrow morning but it been a fun run of south swell. More on the way.

I love watching the bowls cam. The other day there wss some snakin and burnin going on.

 

[casa_mugrienta]

forgot to add - water is now 60F - just like Oregon

I wore a crummy s/s full yesterday and was chilly but not cold. I'd say more like 65.

 

[jkb]

I wore a crummy s/s full yesterday and was chilly but not cold. I'd say more like 65.

You both are correct.

Oceanside buoy yesterday went from 60* at 8am to 65* at 3pm.

 

[000]

today i went to my spot way down the beach alone. as usual
was very inconsistent, but occasionally worth it and surprising
and so nice to be alone
then the same 2 kooks who discovered my nook this week came back
set of the day happened right when another tard was lookin for a peak to paddle out to
he ended up right next to me waiting forever, being sure to sit just deeper than me so he could have priority for the lefts on my peak. kept waiting forever. i rationalized that my PLAN B peak was empty and i went there, had some fun despite mush (thanks fat fish)
soon a group of 5 shitheads walked way down the beach and decided my PLAN B looked like the place to be.
its like i am a surf guide. but i aint gettin paid. these idiots each owe me $1,000 an hour for unpaid work!
i got a few more and gtfo
ps: on the way back my PLAN A peak looked like poo with 3 dorks on it
well that was 2 hours of surfing anyway

 

[obslop]

drained @ 1st light but quickly improved on tide push. made a clean barrel and had a few nice turns. stoked.

 

[obslop]

I wore a crummy s/s full yesterday and was chilly but not cold. I'd say more like 65.

o'side buoy claimed 60 - little warmer today.

 

[casa_mugrienta]

It's a goofy footer's world, and it always amazes me how many lefthand tubes go by unridden.

Oceanside is a great place to see this on display.

Drove me fvckin nuts all morning.

 

[oeste858]

Procrastinating work, snuck out to local reef, mid tide. Water was olive green, murky, and there was tan foam on the shorebreak. yuck. Wore a 3/2 full for the temp. Seems like it's a bit warmer than 2 days ago, but not back up to where it was. Didn't look like much from shore, but once out there, lots of water moving around and some chunky shoulder-high sets. Hard to find one with a shoulder, most were just a drop, some set waves had a wall before quickly running into a closeout section. I thought the lightweight biax Superchunk would have trouble in the lump and chop, but it handled fine. I guess the short rail line helps. Once again, the concave deck made it feel really secure underfoot. Best wave was my last one which actually lined up through the inside, and allowed for some turns. might have to check the cam rewind!