yesterday afternoon took the dog down to the beach for some Frisbee, really foggy. Could barely see a few waves ridden with the wind and thick fog. Come back in 15 minutes with the Vaquero clear and sunny. Really crowded. Dry hood paddle out and I slip right into the wave magnet zone. 50/50 soft-toppers and shortboarders sitting on the inside bar just watching me and another guy get quality wave after quality wave. None of them paddled the 10 or so yards farther out to get the set waves. After 2 hrs and starting to feel guilty and tired go in. Surreal session.
Today not thinking it would be surfable, strong onshore wind but solid swell. Dropping tide the paddle looked like a bitch. Take the 6'7 Parmy and the paddle into a 45-minute whirlpool. Less than 10 guys out. Start out by myself and guys would catch a wave and end up next to me, 5 guys altogether, we were all stuck on the inside gutter. Someone would get an opening and sprint north to get through the impact zone but then get nailed and pushed south and inside again.
Finally, slip through and leave the pack. Get steamrolled by a large south set while resting. Picked off the next wave, well overhead with a wall that held open all the way to the inside. The board was flying down the face just sitting in the pocket, no bottom turn or rail used at all. It was too good to kickout early to avoid getting stuck inside. Looked over my should and see lines of white water and bellied it in. Totally worth it.