*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

[rts265]

saw the fin come up and down in a manner that was not like a dolphin. Trailing edge was serrated. Never saw it again and never saw porpoise the whole session. terns working bait all around the lineup. I guess my hungover body wasn't appealing thankfully

Pretty sure I saw a good sized one Friday. On the inside.

surfed 3/4 last days and I’m wiped out. Might have to take a break tomorrow. Beaches are back open, red Lee is back in his natural habitat. Stocked

edit: been lucky to surf once a week with these unprecedented extraordinary times

 

[CutnSnip]

Decided to wait for the tide to drop a bit and give the building south a little time to get going. I thought I might have screwed up by waiting so long since the wind was already on it, but drifted and held position at a couple bars that had a more defined peak. Rights were much shorter, but got one where I was able to get some speed coming down the double up and race through to get a decent turn on the end section. Had a good barrel dodge to hack on a left. I really need to work on my backside tube game

Blidnspot was great as usual. Rode it with the JJFs and still haven’t decided if I prefer those or the NVS g10 JLs



They should just open the beach lot already. They could even do it to half capacity. A certain city further south did a pretty good job doing this by marking the spots where you‘re not allowed to park. Hopefully the affected residents will start complaining and force the issue a bit

its actually open to people who have a resident pass. so yea it doesnt make sense because what if enough residents show up that its full? then its just as if it was open to begin with. i know a couple little spots that i always find a spot in but that areas bad anyhow even when theres not a pandemic going on.

 

[Woke AF]

yesterday afternoon took the dog down to the beach for some Frisbee, really foggy. Could barely see a few waves ridden with the wind and thick fog. Come back in 15 minutes with the Vaquero clear and sunny. Really crowded. Dry hood paddle out and I slip right into the wave magnet zone. 50/50 soft-toppers and shortboarders sitting on the inside bar just watching me and another guy get quality wave after quality wave. None of them paddled the 10 or so yards farther out to get the set waves. After 2 hrs and starting to feel guilty and tired go in. Surreal session.

Today not thinking it would be surfable, strong onshore wind but solid swell. Dropping tide the paddle looked like a bitch. Take the 6'7 Parmy and the paddle into a 45-minute whirlpool. Less than 10 guys out. Start out by myself and guys would catch a wave and end up next to me, 5 guys altogether, we were all stuck on the inside gutter. Someone would get an opening and sprint north to get through the impact zone but then get nailed and pushed south and inside again.
Finally, slip through and leave the pack. Get steamrolled by a large south set while resting. Picked off the next wave, well overhead with a wall that held open all the way to the inside. The board was flying down the face just sitting in the pocket, no bottom turn or rail used at all. It was too good to kickout early to avoid getting stuck inside. Looked over my should and see lines of white water and bellied it in. Totally worth it.

 

[Toobz]

Yew!

West Oz?

South Oz.

 

[Kento]

Some chunk out there today. Overhead sets that were throwing. A lot of current and a lot of closeouts. Very first wave of the day, clean barrel off the drop, just grabbed the rail and pulled right in. A little section backscratched me but aside from that was clean in, out, and over the top. Stocked but I laughed, knowing that would be my best wave and should just call it a day. Obviously wouldn't do that but got a few other ones, crunched pretty solid on a couple, but overall fun sesh. No wind and very few people.

 

[obslop]

mid morning. opted for the one spot locally that was holding the swell and pretty much got goose eggs sitting on the edge of a thick crowd. couple turns and some beatings but not much else.

 

[CutnSnip]

NOC, already a bit of wind and rain on it but some peaky sets coming through around head high ish and it was relatively uncrowded. Opted for the mid length. Got a few really fun lefts just with a couple backhand turns that felt really good. Still trying to get used to all this board and the different way to approach waves rather than on a shortboard but having alot of fun just gliding and cruising. Board goes fast, especially coming out of a bottom turn.got caught isnide on every set it seems so that was fun i guess. def got my exercise in.

ended the session after some barnyard started barking that I paddled around him aka he tried to drop in on me 20 years down the line when I was already up and pumping and I blew right past him. got my fill already so... dueces!

 

[teeroi]

Dawned Bowls. It was a little bigger today. A few feet overhead and we got mowed by a bomb that was much bigger. Really south. Glassy, light wind.

But I’ve been surfing so much I had a shocker. Tired and bad rhythm. Paddled there when I should’ve been here. Too far out, too far in. Surfed out. But going try again tomorrow. Haha.

 

[Aruka]

Morning sesh at the right hand reef. High tide walls. Glassy but some leftover bump. 6-6 Album twin might be the only board I ride at this spot from now on. Gets in deep and holds a high line through the long sections. Got some fun turns. Older local guy who hasn't been surfing came out and started some drama with an even older gent from CA. The CA guy has a daughter who lives here and he's been coming here for years. He's mellow in the lineup, comes alone, what more can you ask from a visiting surfer? I felt bad that I didn't come to his defense but I was getting all the waves that they were missing so greed won out this time.

Evening sesh at the local sandbar. Rode the Driver. Quick, steep rights. Overhead on the sets. Waves were usually just long enough to get some speed and hit the lip before it closed out. It was much more steep and powerful than my local usually is. Got one of my better turns in a long time. Last third of my session the tide started to fill in and really killed the peak. Took like 5 closeouts in a row before I finally gave up. Water is still so nice and warm. 55 or so would be my guess. Basically bathwater.

 

[teeroi]

Got some pics from Saturday’s session on a couple of photogs ig.

http://instagr.am/p/CARVskZHKHr/
http://instagr.am/p/CARF6jrg3vt/
I think Gonzo just put me on his ig for unko flavor with the Moniz crew. Haha

 

[obslop]

straight onshore at first light; got some exercise. nothing more.

 

[oeste858]

Wind must've been blowing all night. Choppy and blown out in S SD County this morning. Woke up hoping for a window to paddle out, but I'm not seeing it so far.

 

[20W-50 and blood]

Will these winds F)*(#(&*# stop? SH!t. might as well be F&*## inland.

 

[teeroi]

Dawned Bowls yesterday. Was smaller around head high on sets. Waves were nice but it got crowded. Jesse swam out to shoot pics and I think he got a really good one of Jeannie. I’ll tell him to send it to me so I can post it here. Gregg pushed her into wave after wave, she was gleeful (trying not to use stoked, stoke.Ed, stock). Haha

I had a better session than Monday but still feeling surfed out. Right after Jesse swam in I got my best wave. Went vert and almost poked but pulled it and did a couple more turns. Carissas dad was out coaching her and some high school girls. I paddled over on the way out to say hi. He said that first turn was sick. Yeah me.

Got up early feel a little more energized. Going to dawn Bowls in a few. Hope you guys are scoring. We’ve had waves non stop for over a week.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Lot's of crappy to okay waves today on the GX. Water was 57 or so

 

[Aruka]

Lot's of crappy to okay waves today on the GX. Water was 57 or so

57? I was gonna make a joke about being jealous but damn, that's pretty cold and near to the temps here right now.

Yesterday had an evening sesh at the local on my 6'1 Patterson Stock-ed. Pretty stock-ed on this board. Waves were slow but fun when they came. Waist to chest high for the most part. Everyone was out of position for the one head high+ set that rolled through. Hoping the swell angle just wasn't right and that it isn't our sand bar that is the cause for this slightly underwhelming S swell. Just locals and one valley soft topper who stayed off the peak. He still got chewed out (not by me) for coming all this way when the governer's orders still say to recreate in your own neighborhood. Got like ten fun ones in an hour and a half and then called it. Ended on my best wave which is rare.

 

[Kento]

Surfed south again. Much more crowded and water temp dropped a lot due to all that wind yesterday. Shoulder to head high, maybe an overhead set here and there. Throwing on the low tide but really lumpy because of that same infernal wind. Fun session and now that there's waves again, don't have to drop kids off at school because of Covid, and best of all I am injury-free (for the meantime), dawn patrol sessions are a reality again.

Wind swell was consistent but the souths were not. Good peaks over all but the lefts were drainier. There was a sneaky current pulling out so you were constantly paddling in to stay within the lineup. Had a bunch of fun late backhand drops into quick barrels before they either closed out or petered out. Last wave was going to be a good one too. Tide had come in, burgering it out but that one had a perfect section to absolutely murder and there I am just stepping on my leash, front foot got all f*cked up and had goofy bottom turn. No section destruction. Alas. Rode it most the way in and it was best wave that came in a while so called it. Still, good sesh nonetheless.

 

[obslop]

clean, crossed up peaks with some barrels. stoke.

 

[obslop]

57? I was gonna make a joke about being jealous but damn, that's pretty cold and near to the temps here right now.

Yesterday had an evening sesh at the local on my 6'1 Patterson Stock-ed. Pretty stock-ed on this board. Waves were slow but fun when they came. Waist to chest high for the most part. Everyone was out of position for the one head high+ set that rolled through. Hoping the swell angle just wasn't right and that it isn't our sand bar that is the cause for this slightly underwhelming S swell. Just locals and one valley soft topper who stayed off the peak. He still got chewed out (not by me) for coming all this way when the governer's orders still say to recreate in your own neighborhood. Got like ten fun ones in an hour and a half and then called it. Ended on my best wave which is rare.

your posts make we want to roll up with my "Cali" plates, wax up my neon yellow short board, and paddle out directly to the top of the peak with a go pro in my mouth saying, "Bros. What's up! These waves look so sick. Is this the right place to sit?" as i take the inside on everyone.

 

[000]

went to my special place way down the beach, was alone for awhile, water dropped and i froze in a 2 mil, few good waves, just a bit too long inbetween waves though, but that didnt stop 6 people from following me. then i got a tube section where it normally closes out, i figured there was a chance, so i pulled in. got pretty locked in and didnt think i'd come out but i did. i think i got 1 more after that