***Official 2020 Community Surf Journal***

racer1

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Apr 16, 2014
8,124
1,831
113
Honolulu, Hawaii
It's a goofy footer's world, and it always amazes me how many lefthand tubes go by unridden.

Oceanside is a great place to see this on display.

Drove me fvckin nuts all morning.
In college I often drove down to Oside to surf cause it was far less crowded. Many a memory of pid dogging through left tubes.
 
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racer1

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Apr 16, 2014
8,124
1,831
113
Honolulu, Hawaii
Ahh, yeah this would have been 98-02. You could always find an empty bar to yourself or just a few others. Shoot, I remember surfing the pier with like 5-10 people max.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
24,384
1,866
113
Tower 13
walled windswell. calm for a bit then the wind got on it. Didn't look that big so I took the bonzer. ended up being bigger and more consistent so my shoulder is paying for it. handful of pretty fun ones but nothing great.

wore my 4/3 and of course the water jumped up to 66-67. sweating balls
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
21,908
665
113
today i went to my spot way down the beach alone. as usual
was very inconsistent, but occasionally worth it and surprising
and so nice to be alone
exactly like my previous post, different day
it was windy early which scared off many surfers
but one man was able to trek a mile down a surferless beach and paddle out when he finally sees another surfer, who, as always, is me
there we were - 2 guys 6' apart-not friends- the only 2 people for as far as we can see.
remember, this is a beach break, its not like its some special shaped reef (or even sandbar) with good waves
this is why my spot has no name, its not good enough to earn one
another group of 3 shitiots showed up and did the same
by then i'd had my 2 hours and i couldnt wait to get out
the wind had kicked up enough to make it pretty worthless out there
and 4 new followers got to share it with eachother
i wonder if dork#1 was bummed when 3 dorks paddled out next to him on an empty stretch of beach
 

b.r.

Miki Dora status
Dec 19, 2003
5,045
348
83
Leucadia
store.cdbaby.com
surfed 4 out of the last 5 days walking into spots I don't usually surf too often and the water temp has been kind of ping ponging , i prefer my 2mm short sleeve full but got pretty cold and stiff the other day after an hour and cold and stiff doesn't work so good when you are old, actually caught a fun left in front of my friend and slipped on the popup and just belly boarded down the line past him, he was amused, got some good waves over all and still haven't seen it flat enough to wax up my new long board. and as long as i'm whining, my shoulder has been in a lot of pain lately, wakes me up at night, i'm starting to believe that the bi monthly acupuncture I was doing until march was helping out. a friend recommended a cbd thc 1/1 tincture for sleep, gonna try it.
 

MathDebater

Legend (inyourownmind)
Apr 13, 2016
362
201
43
OB/NCSD
Went to a spot I knew would be busy by 10 given the holiday weekend and trunked it to keep myself motivated. Water was colder than expected and the crowd came earlier. Fun little waves, got two and called it. Between the cold, the chaos, and having back problems last week I decided to take it easy.
 
Jul 28, 2018
99
123
33
SoCal
Waist to occasional chest and quasi peaky, but kind of junky and the west windswell seemed to hurt more waves than it helped. Took the giggle box out on its maiden voyage and tried it with the medium dane fins. The board is fast, loose, and whole lot of fun, especially on the waves that stood up a bit. This thing is going to get used a lot this summer
 

b.r.

Miki Dora status
Dec 19, 2003
5,045
348
83
Leucadia
store.cdbaby.com
finally waxed up the new Kenson 9'4 yesterday afternoon and went down to the point and got a ton of fun waves sitting in the middle and or inside. wind was pretty mild for the afternoon sesh, board is fast and is gonna keep me busy during the flat spells.
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,482
1,684
113
eastside oahu
Dawned Bowls. It was really good when the waves rolled in. 20 second energy so the waves had push but long lulls. Lots of head high plus waves when a set came in. With the lowering tide it got slower. Got some good feeling turns and a barrel. Fell on a set in front of everyone. Took off deep, squared up and went straight up but missed the coping and got hung up and went over. I had been looking for the tube on that section but wanted to just smash it. I got smashed. Got roasted hard. Everybody talking crap at once. What happened? I yelled I suck.

After that the waves went flat for half hour. When I finally got one to go in I safety surfed that bugger to the end. 3/4 power on turns. Haha.
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
21,908
665
113
u know whats ironic?
two of my followers left masks on the beach
thy were trying to not get infected with covid
yet they were each surfing with a buddy, and surfing 6' from me, instead of surfing alone on another peak
of which there were several blocks worth is either direction
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
24,384
1,866
113
Tower 13
parking was tight at my local so for what seemed busy with all that were checking it people actually spread out well and it stayed pretty empty. A lovely 4 pack looked like they were going to paddle on us but they set up shop at their own peak down the beach. wasn't very difficult... what a concept.

fuse felt really nice cause it's just so effortless. couple nice snaps and a few chris brown wrap arounds. not a very memorable session but just relaxing which is what I needed after drinking my body weight last night.
 

Aruka

Phil Edwards status
Feb 23, 2010
6,404
1,897
113
PNW
Been flat and windy here for a while. No surfy surf.

Last night in an act of desperation I paddled out at our greatly diminished left sand bar in a strong side wind. It was mostly terrible but I got a couple on the 6'6" Twinny before the tide dropped too far and it started closing out. Water temp has dropped a lot. Can't be over 50F now.

This evening back to the same spot but the winds were lighter and I was on a better tide window. Rode the 5'8 Fling. First time running the Super quad fins I got off the classifieds. Board felt great. Had a really fun session all by myself.