went to a smaller and cleaner spot only to be disappointed overall but I still got a few fun ones on the fuse
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
yesterday was good. got a long tube and made it. got followed, moved, got followed, moved... wish i hadnt slept in long enough to miss 20 minutes of dawn waves
so today i was anxious to wake up earlier. woke at 3am. too damn early. but got out there b4 dawn
too low, it sucked. but that didnt stop a group of 4 from walking down an empty beach and paddling out right where i-the only surfer for 3 blocks- was surfing. iknew i shouldnt have gone for that 1' wave when there were surfers on the beach
ive been mostly surfing terribly. pulled into a tiny tube and my shoulder wrenched and hurt as if it was dislocated. its fine now.
so when i paddled away from the gays, i missed a tiny right, and a seal breached into the air 2' from my face. didnt know it was a seal til the tail flew by.
i wonder if the gays had seen that, if theyd have followed me
so today i was anxious to wake up earlier. woke at 3am. too damn early. but got out there b4 dawn
too low, it sucked. but that didnt stop a group of 4 from walking down an empty beach and paddling out right where i-the only surfer for 3 blocks- was surfing. iknew i shouldnt have gone for that 1' wave when there were surfers on the beach
ive been mostly surfing terribly. pulled into a tiny tube and my shoulder wrenched and hurt as if it was dislocated. its fine now.
so when i paddled away from the gays, i missed a tiny right, and a seal breached into the air 2' from my face. didnt know it was a seal til the tail flew by.
i wonder if the gays had seen that, if theyd have followed me
Mixed bag today. Took the groms and wifey out in the morning and pushed them into little
rollers for a bit, looked fun outside and clean. They had a blast...first time in the water since lock-down.
Went back out around lunchtime solo and it looked pretty
clean and fun when I was changing. Paddled out and the wind pretty much instantly picked up and
conditions went to crap within 10 minutes. Oh well....happy family, happy life!
rollers for a bit, looked fun outside and clean. They had a blast...first time in the water since lock-down.
Went back out around lunchtime solo and it looked pretty
clean and fun when I was changing. Paddled out and the wind pretty much instantly picked up and
conditions went to crap within 10 minutes. Oh well....happy family, happy life!
Yesterday evening had solid size. Winds were light onshore but faded as the session went on. Rode the 6-9 Simon Mollusc. Tried medium JJF fins to loosen it up but it still felt kinda stiff. I think somehow it felt looser with the DHD L's but could be just the waves weren't amazing. It was fun though. The board paddles and catches waves so well. Got a few running lefts and some slower rights that ended in thumping closeouts.
This morning surfed a left bar at the south end of the bay that I've been eyeing for a couple weeks. It finally looked focused enough to give it a go. Rode the Driver, still with DHD L's. Board felt great and the waves were fun! First time surfing this board in strictly lefts. It went well, felt like I was getting into waves pretty easily and fitting in some snaps where the wave allowed. The water is so nice and warm right now I was almost hot in my old 5/4. I wish it was this warm more often. Not looking forward to the summer time 40's temps.
This morning surfed a left bar at the south end of the bay that I've been eyeing for a couple weeks. It finally looked focused enough to give it a go. Rode the Driver, still with DHD L's. Board felt great and the waves were fun! First time surfing this board in strictly lefts. It went well, felt like I was getting into waves pretty easily and fitting in some snaps where the wave allowed. The water is so nice and warm right now I was almost hot in my old 5/4. I wish it was this warm more often. Not looking forward to the summer time 40's temps.
Dawned Bowls. It was fun. New swell filling in and just the regulars. Drank some good coffee and I was full on Jabberwocky. Jeannie kept telling me to calm down and that just amped me up more. I burned my friend Jerome twice. First I thought he was too deep and flew to the shoulder to do a figure 8 but as I was going to hit the rebound there he was. We were cracking up as I bailed my board to avoid hitting him.
I had good rhythm too. After I got a wave I paddled kinda slow and picked up waves guys missed or fell on. Glad I put on a leash cause I fell on some late whip arounds trying to get those two for one bonus waves paddling back out.
Got a really good wave to go in and a hottie on a longboard got right in the way of the best section. I just groaned at her. Karma for burning my friends and all that sh!t talking. Haha.
I had good rhythm too. After I got a wave I paddled kinda slow and picked up waves guys missed or fell on. Glad I put on a leash cause I fell on some late whip arounds trying to get those two for one bonus waves paddling back out.
Got a really good wave to go in and a hottie on a longboard got right in the way of the best section. I just groaned at her. Karma for burning my friends and all that sh!t talking. Haha.
aagain, woke at 3am. too damn early. wasnt the plan. but got out there b4 dawn
rode super far down the beach to be left alone
it was barely breaking, then mushing into nothing
long wait too, borderline worthwhile ALONE
2 guys followed me around 6am
waited for another set, went in
bike had a flat tire. so had a fairly long walk for an old bastard with a bad hip
rode super far down the beach to be left alone
it was barely breaking, then mushing into nothing
long wait too, borderline worthwhile ALONE
2 guys followed me around 6am
waited for another set, went in
bike had a flat tire. so had a fairly long walk for an old bastard with a bad hip
my local is broken. Someone should just nuke it to put it out of it's misery.
Buoys indicated overhead so I took my 6'2" (foggy and couldn't see) and it was barely chest high. A few racers but no turns in an 1.5 hour session.
How does 9 sec windswell close out? WTF?
Buoys indicated overhead so I took my 6'2" (foggy and couldn't see) and it was barely chest high. A few racers but no turns in an 1.5 hour session.
How does 9 sec windswell close out? WTF?
met one of my coworkers at a crappy little reef break near my house after we finished 7 hours of online educating, he rode in on his ebike and I walked in almost 4 miles round trip walk for the spot 6 blocks from my house, a bunch of groms whipped by me on their ebikes, this is a blessing for them, ride into spots that the fat old longboarders can't get easy access to.
well this fat old guy doesn't mind walking and i brought the kenson pleasure pig, low tide fun all over the place peaky waves, some juicy sections and got a couple really long waves surfed for an hour and a half, water was half as murky as the day before so it looks like the red tide will be ending soon, smiling all the way back home. pro tip, don't walk 4 miles in your wetsuit unless you want rashy nuts, i wear shorts and change at the spot.
well this fat old guy doesn't mind walking and i brought the kenson pleasure pig, low tide fun all over the place peaky waves, some juicy sections and got a couple really long waves surfed for an hour and a half, water was half as murky as the day before so it looks like the red tide will be ending soon, smiling all the way back home. pro tip, don't walk 4 miles in your wetsuit unless you want rashy nuts, i wear shorts and change at the spot.
Yeah i got mixed feelings about posting up here with daily surf reports. I mean at the end of the day it's not very wise to post up that your spot was "fun" when other areas are barely knee high dribble. Crowds have thinned out some now that all of SD county is finally open. The red tide is way less and the water temps have dipped a bit, more on the refreshing side than warm. I'm a life long surfer but 100% skateboarder at heart, and skaters have a code:
This was a good read:
www.surfer.com
This was a good read:
COVID-19 is Spurring a New Kind of Localism
For once, discouraging out-of-town surfers is about more than locals’ wave count
www.surfer.com
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I feel you sdsurfrat. If Bowls didn’t have a 24/7 dedicated Surfline cam I wouldn’t name it. And if I surf the NS that doesn’t have a cam I won’t say where. Eastside or Westside I’ll never name a spot. Won’t even take pics.
Dawned Bowls. Super fun though a little bit of a letdown. Was about the same size as yesterday but more waves. Was forecasted to be bigger. Sone Head high waves some bigger ones. Dropping to a negative tide.
Rode the Tokoro X2 with the large NVS Peregrine fins. Board feels good. Got a set and bottom turned to do a hack. Felt the tail slide a little but came around and pulled into a closeout. Thought I was going to bounce so I curled up and my feet just touched so pushed off safely. Tube failure but the hack was really good.
Got another set that my friend Calvin was outside on a longboard could’ve went on. I told him go but he yelled go brah you been waiting. Got shacked and came out right then the low tide put steps in the face and I fell after the exit. This young guy on a lb tells me no completion. I told him takes ok that’s deeper in a barrel you’ll ever get. Haha.
Ronnie Boy yelled at a mom and her two kids who were getting in the way all morning. Why you would come out to Bowls and try to push your kids into waves on a fun crowded day is beyond me.
Dawned Bowls. Super fun though a little bit of a letdown. Was about the same size as yesterday but more waves. Was forecasted to be bigger. Sone Head high waves some bigger ones. Dropping to a negative tide.
Rode the Tokoro X2 with the large NVS Peregrine fins. Board feels good. Got a set and bottom turned to do a hack. Felt the tail slide a little but came around and pulled into a closeout. Thought I was going to bounce so I curled up and my feet just touched so pushed off safely. Tube failure but the hack was really good.
Got another set that my friend Calvin was outside on a longboard could’ve went on. I told him go but he yelled go brah you been waiting. Got shacked and came out right then the low tide put steps in the face and I fell after the exit. This young guy on a lb tells me no completion. I told him takes ok that’s deeper in a barrel you’ll ever get. Haha.
Ronnie Boy yelled at a mom and her two kids who were getting in the way all morning. Why you would come out to Bowls and try to push your kids into waves on a fun crowded day is beyond me.
Alot of us already have crowds that are out if control on most good days but even with a metric sh!t ton of cams we still score alot if fun uncrowded surf
Anywho, got sum OH bombs in the fog today . Rips and drift kept everyone socially distant . Stoked to put together a few nice turns on a hpsb and get tossed going under sets . Water was kinda chilly and red tide smelled like methane ??? Is that normal
Give me more
Anywho, got sum OH bombs in the fog today . Rips and drift kept everyone socially distant . Stoked to put together a few nice turns on a hpsb and get tossed going under sets . Water was kinda chilly and red tide smelled like methane ??? Is that normal
Give me more
back to spot b. Inconsistent with lots of closeouts but got a couple fun ones. Actually best wave was super fun with a nice wrap on the outside to reform racer with three hits in shallow water on the fuse.
I love the fuse but it's not perfect. Thinking of hybridizing it.
I love the fuse but it's not perfect. Thinking of hybridizing it.
The local bar was shallow and fun . half a dozen steps and 3 paddles and it was off to the races. Decent peaks with no crowd ... 2 good rights , 2 good lefts, sunny and warm.
Stoke-ed
Been on a hpsb kick and digging it
Stoke-ed
Been on a hpsb kick and digging it
went early and mostly sat around while listening to an old local guy rant about the virus (conspiracies, lies, microchips, etc.).
somehow barely catch a decent wave right before i need to go in, wobble a weird bottom turn, and pull into a nice little barrel which I somehow thread for a make.
yew.
somehow barely catch a decent wave right before i need to go in, wobble a weird bottom turn, and pull into a nice little barrel which I somehow thread for a make.
yew.
Firing this morning.
Early bird gets the worm. On it at 530. Barrels. Beat downs. STOCKED.
Early bird gets the worm. On it at 530. Barrels. Beat downs. STOCKED.
Yeah, not sure how you managed to contort your body Gumby-style into that little tube, but it was sick!