*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

[Lowqi2]

had like 3 days over the last 5.

yesterday was pretty special. current was strong enough to drift the crowds away, but did require a bit of paddling to stay in the sweet spot. rewarded with pretty empty good waist to hh beachies for the entire 3 hrs sesh. thought i died and gone to heaven.

 

[MathDebater]

Today was my first surf in about 2 months between restrictions and rain. Lots of rust to get off but it came off. I got out really early and surfed about 4.5 hours, pretty smoked now. Surfed my log till the tide came down some, remembered that I just don't love longboarding - but it was the right tool for the job. Chugged some water when my calves started cramping and switched to my fish about halfway through. Luckily it was pretty empty most of the time so I was able to be picky and get the sets (tweeners weren't too surfable on a non-longboard). Love my Banjo, instantly brought a smile to my face when I switched to it.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

micro softies on teh fuse this morning

glad to hear they didn't shut down all CA bitches

 

[Oceanslide]

Small and very inconsistent, but got some ankle-waist high runners and a couple a touch bigger on the Manta to have fun. Thought that was it...glad to see the governor recognizing that what cities are doing here is successful so far. I anticipate OC will need to do the same for now.

 

[oeste858]

First surf in maybe 2 months. Definitely a bit rusty and out of rhythm. Water warm enough for s/s 2mm. Only 3 other guys out, all respectfully taking turns on the mushy 3-footers. Heard some friends got sinus infections this week from the red tide so wore surfEars plugs. Didn't even get my head wet for the first 20 min. Was feeling good. Got cocky and went for some late take offs on inside reef and got dunked. Tried like hell not to swallow the brown, gritty water. I think the wife has a neti pot somewhere but I've never used one before.
Nice to get wet again!

Took out the rarely used slump-buster, 7’2 x 22 Mast single:

 

[Muscles]

Paddled out in gusting wind swell. Had a few decent waves until I got slammed and somehow got rammed into the reef. Huge 12 inch gash along my side. I'm lucky it doesn't require stitches. I'm in pretty bad pain right now.

Oh, and to top it off one of my fins fell out. So I had to buy another set. Fun times.

 

[Maz]

Coming out of strict level-4 lockdown has of course coincided with one of our infamous ultra flat spells. Never mind, I have been putting my new log to good use and have had 7 sessions in 3 days, eventually stretching the limits of ridiculousness. Tiny tiny, but juuuust glideable.

Don't mind, it just feels so good to be in the soup again and not feel like a criminal.

 

[Iceman]

Super fun in town today. Well overhead, some random DOH sets in the mix, fun short lefts, great longer rights, one of those days where I was in the right spot every time, and it wasn't that crowded. More people started filing in after noon, but by then, I had my fill and then some. Then I went mountain biking this afternoon. Stoked.

 

[sdsurfrat]

Sore as hell and a dropping tide, but glassy mini skatepark peaks drew me in. Only lasted about an hour but still fun. Retodd, and all the gang on here are welcome down while you enjoy your communist test drive. Hopefully it won't last too long. Hey when your muscles are sore you're living well.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

broke out the sicks too thrusty mgoo today!

warbly but shoulder high. Felt good to lay into some on the Stamps Crow. Second session on it. So far so good, just feels weird riding a proper surfboard.

 

[teeroi]

Dawned small Bowls. Haven’t surfed since Saturday. Pretty much to just paddle around and talk crap with the crew. Of course they told me it was much better yesterday. Haha

 

[MathDebater]

More size than I expected today, and more hollow. Went over the falls a few times but snagged some fun ones. Whole body is fried now.

 

[Muscles]

One of the shops here was having a sale to sell surfboards. Ended up buying an CI Fever in Flex Bar for $600 OTD. They were on clearance with a discount of $300.

I decided to sell my Lost Psycho Killer. Great board. But, I finally came to the conclusion that I am a hardcore thruster squash tail shortboard type of person.

 

[b.r.]

yesterday I walked in and then down the beach to the point and got an hour and a half of fun waves, mellow crowd in the water, on the beach not so much with the funneling of everyone in and out at the same spot. I emailed my councilman with some common sense ideas for the next phase of the opening , lets see if they do it.
water was warm and very redish brown, Kenson Pleasure pig was the right board for the soft conditions and to battle the 5 or 6 longboarders that were out.

 

[retodd]

More size than I expected today, and more hollow. Went over the falls a few times but snagged some fun ones. Whole body is fried now.

Saw quite a few folks do that yesterday . The resident kneelo put on a toob clinic

 

[MathDebater]

That reminds me, I watched a guy get a toob, paddle right back out past me with a ferocity that made me think there was a monster set coming or something, so I cautiously started to follow suit. Then I realized he was taking a sh!t. haha He paddled back and immediately pulled into another murky brown shack.

 

[Muscles]

Went and picked up the CI Fever in flexbar. Interesting setup. I can see why CI stopped making Flexbar. Seems very labor intensive to cut different pieces of foam and substrate then vacuum bagging a blank together and then shaping it and glassing it with Epoxy. Board was shaped in Santa Barbara and glassed in Huntington Beach.

 

[Aruka]

Pretty solid swell yesterday. Well overhead to maybe DOH on the sets at my local. Unfortunately the biggest sets were closeouts. Actually most of the waves were closeouts period but occasionally a mid sized one would corner up and run. Not an easy day of surfing, lots of work but there was some good ones to be had if you happened to luck into the right spot. Rode the 6'3" IF15 and it felt good on the steeper faces. It didn't do me any favors on the flatter faced sections though.

Got one turn in particular on a right that really felt good and pretty much stoked me out for the rest of the day.

Today we are back to a steady rain and strong Southerlies.

 

[b.r.]

Pretty solid swell yesterday. Well overhead to maybe DOH on the sets at my local. Unfortunately the biggest sets were closeouts. Actually most of the waves were closeouts period but occasionally a mid sized one would corner up and run. Not an easy day of surfing, lots of work but there was some good ones to be had if you happened to luck into the right spot. Rode the 6'3" IF15 and it felt good on the steeper faces. It didn't do me any favors on the flatter faced sections though.

Got one turn in particular on a right that really felt good and pretty much stoked me out for the rest of the day.

Today we are back to a steady rain and strong Southerlies.

i grew up in the land of closeouts, gave me such an appreciation for waves that others consider too closed out. has got me in the water consistently for 47 years its a blessing i suppose.

 

[sdsurfrat]

Fun, sun, crowded. Started off with a fatish high tide dropping out. Saw an old dude tackle a grom, (fecalface? nah, body tackle no spearing) i had to sort that one out... turns out they know each other, friends, but the grom is getting too big for his britches. Backside blowtail fail (back d) was prolly my highlight, other than weaving slalom thru goons. Truth be told i'm surfing pretty stiff and sluggo.