Surprised he didn't burn her! LOL
And yeah the best part of trying new fins is realizing certain ones don't work and getting them out of the board ASAP.
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
And yeah the best part of trying new fins is realizing certain ones don't work and getting them out of the board ASAP.
local over run with swell. lucked into a few corners and was nice to have no crowd as most were unable to deal with the current. time to get back into surf shape.
N wind this morning put me at desperation bar. But it sucks in lots of swell so it was pretty brutal. Minus tide didn't help. Water finally warmed up down here so I'm still sweating.
I surfed for an hour but paddled a 4 hours session.
I surfed for an hour but paddled a 4 hours session.
Yesterday we waited for tide to fill in for our flavor of the month left bar. Winds came up right as we were suiting. F it, went anyways. It was a choppy mess by the time we got out there but the bar is good enough that there were still some surfable waves. There were some chopped up messy ones but sometimes the second or third wave of the set would be cleaned up enough to get a couple turns in. Rode the Driver. It was borderline fishy surf despite being chest-to-head high but the board did well gliding over flat spots and it was nice to have some rocker for plowing through the shin high chops.
was super choppy early and i wasnt gonna bother, but i figured i needed the excersize and chop acares of morning crews so....
out i went. it was light already. 1 guy out down the beach. i found my own peak as usual, then a hoard started marching my way. a few ended up next to me and i showed em how good the other peak was. strangely, they paddled over there and left me alone. i got a few good sets despite the chop, enough to make it worthwhile. when the hoards were descending and it was gettin to be a really long wait, i split
out i went. it was light already. 1 guy out down the beach. i found my own peak as usual, then a hoard started marching my way. a few ended up next to me and i showed em how good the other peak was. strangely, they paddled over there and left me alone. i got a few good sets despite the chop, enough to make it worthwhile. when the hoards were descending and it was gettin to be a really long wait, i split
I dawned Bowls.There were waves but not as good as the other days. There was a bump on it and it was running from the normal takeoff. Lot of west but not big enough and the tide was kinda low. Got a few runners on the Vesso twin. I put the Power Twin fins back in and the board works fine. On my last wave I got a lined up wall and raced it. Highlined a section and the used all the speed to do a roundhouse. Almost caught a rail but I was going fast and the board came around. I hit the whitewater did another little swoop and proned in.
I was standing in the parking lot by Jeannie and some of the Rockpiles dawn patrol. Kimo was leaving and he rolled down his window to say bye. I yelled Kimo. He stopped. Did you see my last wave. He goes yeah that turn was heavy. Jeannie and the boys start laughing. I yelled I love you Kimo. Threw up my arms and proclaimed I’m the greatest. Jeannie rolled her eyes and the boys laughed even harder. Haha.
I was standing in the parking lot by Jeannie and some of the Rockpiles dawn patrol. Kimo was leaving and he rolled down his window to say bye. I yelled Kimo. He stopped. Did you see my last wave. He goes yeah that turn was heavy. Jeannie and the boys start laughing. I yelled I love you Kimo. Threw up my arms and proclaimed I’m the greatest. Jeannie rolled her eyes and the boys laughed even harder. Haha.
Yesterday quick sesh before the weird wind picked up. Super drained out HH sets - was peaky on some sets and walled out on others. Knocked the dust off the GX and realized its been too long. Gotta rotate that one in more but the Flare is too good. Got a few fun in betweeners and a nice little head dip before the eddy wind picked up.
Woke up ready to rock this morning but wind straight out the gates. Decided tomorrow another is another day and finally LA surfing is back on Wednesday just in time for this south swell to be over. lol.
Woke up ready to rock this morning but wind straight out the gates. Decided tomorrow another is another day and finally LA surfing is back on Wednesday just in time for this south swell to be over. lol.
still some swell, first out at first light, glassy. looks consistent while paddling out. it wasnt
i chose my non-spot away from the popular one. 2 guys went there. 2 more came out right where i was, soon there were 7 clueless idiots around me - ignoring the real surf spot with a mere 2 guys on it.
but my peak aint easy, its all over the place and often mushy if u arent in just the right spot.
so the 7 tards got nothing while i pillaged the sets, got everything i wanted.
but it got very inconsistent, and more guys kept showing up to the wrong-spot.
s tried another peak, got a few whiel the tards didnt, then split. fat board was the right choice
i chose my non-spot away from the popular one. 2 guys went there. 2 more came out right where i was, soon there were 7 clueless idiots around me - ignoring the real surf spot with a mere 2 guys on it.
but my peak aint easy, its all over the place and often mushy if u arent in just the right spot.
so the 7 tards got nothing while i pillaged the sets, got everything i wanted.
but it got very inconsistent, and more guys kept showing up to the wrong-spot.
s tried another peak, got a few whiel the tards didnt, then split. fat board was the right choice
Damn it. I don't know who I pissed off.
I tried two different sets in my CI Fever that's a week old. I just received a set of Taylor Knox fins NVS fins in the mail. Went to unscrew the fins and it felt way too tight. Finally got the screw out and it chewed up the box and now the fin box threads are stripped on a brand new board. Ugh. I need to figure out how to fix it. Tried the lighter method and it didn't work. Probably going to set epoxy in it and try to rethread it that way.
So in the last two weeks I've done the following:
- Got slammed into a reef and suffered a huge cut along my rib cage
- Lost a fin (same session as the reef slam)
- Had a leash break and had to watch my week old board bounce across the rocks while I swam in. Cut my thumb bad on the rocks while swimming.
- Same board that bounced off the rocks now has a stripped fin box.
Worst run of surfing I've had in a long time. Mega kook status.
I tried two different sets in my CI Fever that's a week old. I just received a set of Taylor Knox fins NVS fins in the mail. Went to unscrew the fins and it felt way too tight. Finally got the screw out and it chewed up the box and now the fin box threads are stripped on a brand new board. Ugh. I need to figure out how to fix it. Tried the lighter method and it didn't work. Probably going to set epoxy in it and try to rethread it that way.
So in the last two weeks I've done the following:
- Got slammed into a reef and suffered a huge cut along my rib cage
- Lost a fin (same session as the reef slam)
- Had a leash break and had to watch my week old board bounce across the rocks while I swam in. Cut my thumb bad on the rocks while swimming.
- Same board that bounced off the rocks now has a stripped fin box.
Worst run of surfing I've had in a long time. Mega kook status.
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That sucks man.
To fix the fin box, go to home depot and get a small tap kit and a grub screw the next size up.
Tap the hole to the next size up and use the new grub screw.
board is cursed. must be sacrificed to clear the bad juju.
the sweep has been murder the last couple days. wave, walk, wave, walk, etc. paddle out, massive rip - paddle some more, wave walk. By the time one comes to you dont even have the arms to catch it.
Been some fun swell out in the water lately with some hit and miss wind conditions, but I lucked into some great waves.
Sunday at my usual spot where everything came together with the tide, wind, and crowd. Got a few rides where the inside section would stand up and allow some really fun top to bottom sarfing. Should have been on the Burch asym, but I initially chose the Untitled because the wind looked like it might come up. It never did. The sun popped out and it glassed off nicely.
Yesterday had a bit more size to it. Saw a fun sheltered wave that was a bit smaller and with a very mellow crowd. Haven't ridden the GMM2 in a while because it's been too big, windy, too much current, ect.....but I thought it would be fun on this wave. It felt like banging an old girlfriend, but without all the drama afterword. Such a great board.
Sunday at my usual spot where everything came together with the tide, wind, and crowd. Got a few rides where the inside section would stand up and allow some really fun top to bottom sarfing. Should have been on the Burch asym, but I initially chose the Untitled because the wind looked like it might come up. It never did. The sun popped out and it glassed off nicely.
Yesterday had a bit more size to it. Saw a fun sheltered wave that was a bit smaller and with a very mellow crowd. Haven't ridden the GMM2 in a while because it's been too big, windy, too much current, ect.....but I thought it would be fun on this wave. It felt like banging an old girlfriend, but without all the drama afterword. Such a great board.
Got out on some nice 3-5 beachies. Peaky, with some open barrels that I inadvertantly got in. Not a barrel rider by any means, just responding to the wave. Some nice reflexive vertical hits and surprise to pull them off. Ate it on a few thumpers from slipping off the hands on the push up. 6-8 waves set, I got to remember to not take the first wave after a lull...punishing.