Mornn' Antie~christ,
yearz ago, i'll say, if my memory recalls it correctly,
say winter of '79/'80, well ALL Los Angeles beaches, from Palos Verdes to Ventura, were closed.
For a month.
This was before L.A.'s Hyperion sewage treatment plant got that 4 billion dollar up~grade to process all thee turds that pepz sent down to DockWeiler, to be sent off~shore 2 miles outta that Shitty~Pipe that is still there. Millions upon millions of raw, untreated sheee~it flowed into the water, beaches closed, no surfin', yada, yada, yada. Thing was, there were still some good waves to be had. Me + my oldest best friend Jaime Perez, seen here recently hittin' it, well past age of 50,
well we just haaaad to surf!
Went up to Pt. Zero's, sheriff came down made us split. Argh.
Venice, the southside of Thee BreakWater, was pumping 1 afternoon, after school, rode my bicycle down there, surfed with Jaime, Sarlo, a few other V~boyz, saw some helo circlin' us in the rain, who cared? Rode home, stocked, sooo fun! Saw my ol' Mom, she asked me if i was out surfin' yea, i was, Moms!!! Took a long hot shower, get rid of sewer cooties, hahaha. Got outta the shower, Mom's, an old pot smokin' Hippie gal, was talkin' sheee~it, your gonna get sick, stay outta the water, blah, blah, blah.
She told me she had seen us, Jaime, Sarlo, me, out in the water, on tv,
as Channel 7, KABC, that ol' news show with Dr. George Fishbeck as it's weather man:
had filmed us, said look at the stupid surfers, risking gettin sick, for some waves. What~evers Mom!
As i walked outside to my garage bedroom, she followed, with a hammer, took it to the bottom of my old Pacific West twin fin that i really, really liked, swacking holes in it, again+again. She did not touch the fins though, wa~ga!
I got the board back, ran away from home that night, protestin' her authoritarian might, for a few dayz
Go surf,
if ya want!
rw