5 minute walk down the hill to the nearest working sandbar. 20 minute drive to a sheltered cove if it's blown out.
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How far do you live from "your local" surf spot?
- Thread starter waxfoot
- Start date
After 30 years in AK, I moved to coastal PNW. It's rural enough that it still feels like Alaska but access is easier and the water is slightly warmer.
I lived in Kodiak for about 5 years and that was the only time I had easy access to surf in Alaska.
I'm a 3-5 minute drive to the Cardiff-Swami's complex/Encinitas alphabet streets zone depending on lights and which street I choose to get to the beach. I'm a 15-20 min drive to my lifetime regular spot.
It's always fun to be getting vibed by some blow in that's been a "local" for a couple of years and then be warmly greeted by a real long-timer. The look on Mr. insta-locs face is always priceless and the apology is always accepted. The LJ reefs trip me out....
It's always fun to be getting vibed by some blow in that's been a "local" for a couple of years and then be warmly greeted by a real long-timer. The look on Mr. insta-locs face is always priceless and the apology is always accepted. The LJ reefs trip me out....
Up until very recently we were a community of one full time (me) and my wife and kids part time. There are three new people that spend half their time here. Good people. We’re now outnumbered by vacation rental places. I spent well over 1,500 nights here with no other humans within 7km of bad dirt road. The last time I surfed lowers was May 1979, north side hb, 1973.
lol, pick the wrong street on the wrong day and you’ll be waiting 20min to cross the tracks.
I'm a mediocre surfer. I have no illusions about this. And I have no problem with a bit of localism to maintain order in the status quo. I'm just not going to listen to it when I'm the target of it in my own hometown, at waves a couple miles from where I took my first steps.
I've heard the SMJ crew tell people "brah this is MISSION BEACH, not San Diego!" As if that makes a difference. Imagine moving from the mainland to Wahiawa, surfing Haleiwa every day, and then hassling JOB when he shows up because his house is 5 miles up the road and not right there.
right - talented surfers will surf ... friendly ones will make friends, dicks will be dicks
I actually had something similar happen.
This guy snaked me and I asked him what was with the back paddle? In the most haole accent imaginable he responds with "brah, who you? Where you from?". I was born and raised literally 3 miles away from where we were surfing. My uncles and grand parents ashes were spread at the beach up the road. This guy moved here with his military parents a few years ago and was white as can be. He was 18 and literally half my size. It was so absurd that I just laughed at him. My friend who saw the whole thing proceeded to burn him every time he saw him.
Cool story bro.
5 minutes ~ y'all have seen photos & vids of Kalihiwai
15 minutes to The Bay (with 2 lanes in operation into / out of Hanalei) not the case now.
15 minutes to The Bay (with 2 lanes in operation into / out of Hanalei) not the case now.
Way way back last century, the Mission Jetty guys were happy to get scraps at Blacks. J.P., Andre, Johnny Boland. Good times. LOL, they got plenty behind NPSP and myself.
Well yeah, your username is Muscles after all. Does he even lift?
someone like that I would just drop in on relentlessly and if he complains tell him ur just getting started
I bought my house specifically because of its proximity to my favorite surf spot. It was a life goal I made for myself when I was about 14 and had to rely on my older sisters to drive me to the beach to surf. Pulled in off in the first half of my 20s. There were no surf cams back then and just unreliable telephone recorded surf reports. If you wanted to be on it every time it was good you really had to live close enough to check it in person. By the late 90s most people had cell phones. Used to **** me off to see someone on the steps calling all his buddies to tell them it was good at a particular spot and I'd be sure to burn in the water.
Started going south on 5 to Lomas st fe because the chesterfield intersection just bugs me. LJ reefs trip me out too. Random guys out there somehow making it really hard to be in the right place at the right time. No worries, it's all gravy now anyway.
Too far, 1.5 hour drive to my "local" that I'm committed to. Median home prices are $1.8 m there now so unfortunately I don't see that changing any time soon.
Those were some very fun times. I never pulled status on JP though, he was my hook up for cheap wetsuits and I didn't want to get stuck with neon pink or some other heinous color.