It's probably an attribute substitution happening at a subconscious level.
We all do it.
So it's probably not a lie which is a statement meant to deceive.
REMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials submitted to or posted on the Forums, and remove, delete, redact or otherwise modify such materials, in its sole discretion and for any reason whatsoever, at any time and from time to time, without notice or further obligation to you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to display or post any materials provided by you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to disclose, at any time and from time to time, any information or materials that we deem necessary or appropriate to satisfy any applicable law, regulation, contract obligation, legal or dispute process or government request. Click on the following hyperlinks to further read the applicable Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
How far do you live from "your local" surf spot?
- Thread starter waxfoot
- Start date
We all do it.
So it's probably not a lie which is a statement meant to deceive.
i had the key to that gate for a couple of years in the early 1980’s.
1 hour drive to the first good spot. 1:45 drive to my preferred spot. If no traffic at all (there usually isn't, I live my house at 4am).
5 minutes by car ~ a mile but still outside of the tsunami inundation zone so we don't have to evacuate when the sirens go off.
Used to be 5 min to our beach house fronting the breaks we grew up on.
As kids staying at the beach we'd listen to the ocean all night fighting mosquitos with lit punks anticipating a predawn paddle out. or going home to a warm shower/bed and no mosquitos to fight but not feeling and smelling the ocean.
Used to be 5 min to our beach house fronting the breaks we grew up on.
As kids staying at the beach we'd listen to the ocean all night fighting mosquitos with lit punks anticipating a predawn paddle out. or going home to a warm shower/bed and no mosquitos to fight but not feeling and smelling the ocean.
That damn foghorn, the thundering UPS plane at dawn, screeching parrots, the hell's Angel wannabe reving his Harley setting off car alarms all the way to West point Loma Blvd. After 35 years living walking distance from the waves the last ten years in Aviera have been like going to heaven.
I remember that guy.
I thought I lived close, guess not. Takes me 1.5 songs on radio to get to PPP, Crowdiff is 11 minute drive.
Nine miles from the ocean. (17 minutes)
Twelve miles from the nearest consistent non-beach break. (25 minutes)
Thirteen miles from LA's most consistent beach break. (18-22 minutes)
Thirty or so miles from where I prefer surfing. (45+ minutes)
Before moving to LA from Santa Cruz I was never more than 1.5 miles from the surf, 7 minutes to my local.
I don't expect to ever have a "local" again. I don't care to be social in the water anyway.
Twelve miles from the nearest consistent non-beach break. (25 minutes)
Thirteen miles from LA's most consistent beach break. (18-22 minutes)
Thirty or so miles from where I prefer surfing. (45+ minutes)
Before moving to LA from Santa Cruz I was never more than 1.5 miles from the surf, 7 minutes to my local.
I don't expect to ever have a "local" again. I don't care to be social in the water anyway.
Not sure how it is now but to your point (in my day anyway) La Mesa crew ruled SMJ.
A handful of those guys are actually from Mission, but not many. I get sh!t every time I paddle out there and I grew up closer to it than 90% of them.
Tweed lives just a block east of La Jolla Blvd with a straight shot to Lobster Lounge. Here we are moments before my tib-fib fracture at W/S.
Currently and been a while now.... to damn far, but not that far to where I cant surf a dawnie and be home for lunch or catch a evening sesh after work. My local mountain shred resorts are just as close too. Get about 70-80 sessions a year rn with 2 kids and full time job. Often post up for multiple days when its good and dont even bother when its not. Always have a place to stay (hashtagvanlife) Surf more then some of my buddies who live costal. Remote work has been good to me recently. I've lived biking distance from a fairly consistent spot, but also 100 steps from the sand and still drove like a mofo chasing the carrot. Just the way it is around here. I'll be back someday, hopefully close to a warm sand bottomed point break at least part time.
"Living at the beach isn't the answer. Guys who live at the beach get waterlogged. I'm there for the waves, nothing else." Dora-
"Living at the beach isn't the answer. Guys who live at the beach get waterlogged. I'm there for the waves, nothing else." Dora-
Being a local isn't ownership, it's being part of a community. I consider a wave to be localized when your status in the community impacts which waves you catch. Trestles isn't really localized because how good you are is the single biggest factor in what waves you get. Northside HB pier is more localized because your relationships with other surfers is a lot more important than it is at lowers.
edit: When I started surfing in the early 90's living close to a spot used to be important, but with most surfers getting priced out it's not really a factor anymore. This works both ways, too. I couldn't move to PV and paddle out at Lunada and expect to not get sh!t, I would have to know people first.
Last edited:
The pecking order there always cracks me up, and usually the loudest "locals" are very mediocre surfers.
It was all the SRH HARD AS FOOK crew in the 90s. They got quiet as soon as violence/breath holding contests become imminent.
You are definitely on it more than most. The thing that amazes me is how you navigate your way through the Portland war zone to get to the coast. You must have a tank or a big jacked up truck or something. Are there even roads in Portland anymore or is it just rubble and smoke? I heard the smoke and teargas from the burned out city core has made it's way across the country and is polluting the NY skyline now. Oregon sucks.
when I was up there it was a trip sipping on a killer beer with hipster food in a really nice setting, then walking to my car 1/2 block away it was a complete chitshow