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How far do you live from "your local" surf spot?
- Thread starter waxfoot
- Start date
walked to surf this morning.
annual north shore camp out for my bday.
not a soul for miles around.
18mph/onshore, head high and solo for two hours.
Happy start to a new year.
annual north shore camp out for my bday.
not a soul for miles around.
18mph/onshore, head high and solo for two hours.
Happy start to a new year.
have to drive to it now and it's dirt wasteland with homeless and fishermen lining the coast,
but our home break we learned and grew up on was our backyard and food source
but our home break we learned and grew up on was our backyard and food source
I can understand the attitude.
If I'm not mistaken USD kids love Mission Beach livin' and every male USD student is a surfer bro.
Imagine a constant rotation of USD surfer bros invading your spot.
Status in the community?
So the HB mayor and the city treasurer can basically paddle out and burn everyone? What about the city attorney?
I've never surfed HB so not sure what you're getting at.
If I think it's what you're getting at it doesn't work out well and things get complicated.
When I was growing up it was about one thing: where did you grow up surfing?
This kept it simple. You grew up surfing there you were a part of the pecking order. Otherwise, unless the crowd was minimal, you were just another guy in the water waiting for an opportunity.
Then sometime in the early 2000s as the area population and surfing somewhat exploded that all changed. Cocksucking or being someone's buddy suddenly got you a ticket into the the pecking order and a lot of these guys don't want to wait their turn at times when no one was looking. Spend some months traveling or living elsewhere a bit and come back suddenly some guy you've never seen in your life is paddle battling or setting up to burn you. The SUP thing made it even worse - "Who is this guy who almost clobbered me with his paddle?" "Oh that's so-and-so's friend."
The way I see it, personally, I will never (and should never) have local status at any wave where I didn't grow up surfing. That includes any spot I surf on the regular.
The only thing I can do is use my ability and wave knowledge to get what I can.
An adult blow-in will never understand or have a connection to a spot the way someone who grew up surfing there will.
When I see guys from the East Coast, Texas, Brazil, etc playing local at a place where they arrived as an adult surfer there is something about it that just screams "slimy sense of entitlement."
Happy Birthday Surf! Get some!!!walked to surf this morning.
annual north shore camp out for my bday.
not a soul for miles around.
18mph/onshore, head high and solo for two hours.
Happy start to a new year.
12 - 15 minute drive to my daily spot. 20 minute drive if I'm looking for something a little different. Then there's those days that you just drive up and down the coast trying to convince yourself that there's something better around the next point. This is where a 20 minute drive turns into an hour search. 
Given that the HB city attorney sued Newsom to keep the beaches open last year, he can probably have any wave he wants at the Northside pier bowl.
This is the exact issue I've been having.
Local beach break 5 minute drive 10 minute hike
Reef 45 minutes 15-20 minute walk
Reef 45 minutes 15-20 minute walk
every time i stay away from a break ive surged for 30+ years, when i get back there is a new crew of entitled fktards i've never seen hassling everyone. its weird but reality these days.
I used to frequently surf a notoriously localized spot. Then I went off the Africa for three years and when I go back there was a while new, young crew on it. My first time back and these guys were taking off on the shoulder and I knew you could make the wave from much further back. These kids would snake me and after about the fourth time one of them kicks out and says, "I'm going to drop in on you every time." Later, while changing on the rocks, one of these knuckleheads sees my board and realizes I'm "from the area." He kind of apologized but said, "You know how it is. You can't just go to the peak." I wasn't back paddling these guys, I was taking off 15 yard up the reef. Because of the bad vibes that and a subsequent day I gave up on the spot. Too many dirty underwearers.
30-40 minute drive for me. Just long enough to listen to a podcast or a bible sermon. 
I've surfed O-side long enough to know who is local and who isn't. I respect all the guys that have been there for years and years. Old farts, kooks, and rippers alike. I stay in my little zones and corners and get the best waves I can without getting in anyones way.
Also, lots of the guys i've made friends with have seen my surfing improve over the years and know how dedicated I am, so sometimes they give me pass when the waves are good and all the local boys are out... which is more than i could ask for or expect.
I've surfed O-side long enough to know who is local and who isn't. I respect all the guys that have been there for years and years. Old farts, kooks, and rippers alike. I stay in my little zones and corners and get the best waves I can without getting in anyones way.
Also, lots of the guys i've made friends with have seen my surfing improve over the years and know how dedicated I am, so sometimes they give me pass when the waves are good and all the local boys are out... which is more than i could ask for or expect.
10 iterations of the same tomo is beyond dedication duuu!30-40 minute drive for me. Just long enough to listen to a podcast or a bible sermon.
I've surfed O-side long enough to know who is local and who isn't. I respect all the guys that have been there for years and years. Old farts, kooks, and rippers alike. I stay in my little zones and corners and get the best waves I can without getting in anyones way.
Also, lots of the guys i've made friends with have seen my surfing improve over the years and know how dedicated I am, so sometimes they give me pass when the waves are good and all the local boys are out... which is more than i could ask for or expect.
So much this!
I hate having to sound someone who should know better, that their douche friend, just snowballed me or got in my way for the 2nd or 3rd time. A few of the BMC guys at Blacks are the worst when it comes to inviting their buddies to the front of the line.
You just described my life when I lived up top of Corral Canyon. If the points were flat in the spotting scope, then we head North for greener pastures.12 - 15 minute drive to my daily spot. 20 minute drive if I'm looking for something a little different. Then there's those days that you just drive up and down the coast trying to convince yourself that there's something better around the next point. This is where a 20 minute drive turns into an hour search.
Half mile to the closest, another 1.5 miles to my main spot
So I'm bodyboarding at Windansea, catching a few from the outside. Bill Andrews paddles out then says out loud to the lineup, "This Hawaiian boogieboarder is catching all the lefts. Why hasn't anyone dropped in on him yet?" FU Bill. And RIP brother.
