Did it smell like pe? If so for sure but I don't think so only can tell eps from pu but never heard away to tell resin besides waiting to see if goes brittle or brown etc but some resins are better then others and some have uv others don't
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Glassing
- Thread starter lofatkilla
- Start date
I'm not sure I could tell the difference in a PE vs Epoxy smell. I guess time will tell!Did it smell like pe? If so for sure but I don't think so only can tell eps from pu but never heard away to tell resin besides waiting to see if goes brittle or brown etc but some resins are better then others and some have uv others don't
After thinking about it for a minute "currently have no pu/pe boards" if you sanded resin and collected dust you could tell by smell
PE still has smell even after cured while epoxy should have no real odor or no PE like odor.Ok. Makes sense. Thank you!After thinking about it for a minute "currently have no pu/pe boards" if you sanded resin and collected dust you could tell by smell
I think we all can agree xtr, varial, and stretch make some of the strongest eps(etc)/epoxy boards while some big brands and turd pop ups factory boards not so great and maybe best to stick to pu/pe
I think the problem is PE glassers that “dabble” in epoxy… their epoxy glass jobs are inferior bc they’re not done right.
I had a roberts epoxy thAt was glassed in house n bullet-proof.
If you diy own epoxy boards you realize how fragile mix is and have to weight ratio with scale to get right. Also trick I learned is to scrap slow with popsycle stick top to bottom for two minutes mix then let sit for 5 minutes to bond correctly before using
Yeah. It’s different, but not difficult or complicated.If you diy own epoxy boards you realize how fragile mix is and have to weight ratio with scale to get right. Also trick I learned is to scrap slow with popsycle stick top to bottom for two minutes mix then let sit for 5 minutes to bond correctly before using
mix ratio is much more critical-digital scale a no brainer. Resin should Be warm ~ 80F, must be mixed thoroughly n work area should be reasonable warm. Much easer to over work the resin n get air bubbles etc
I have found 70f perfect sweet spot to work with and make sure to keep digital scale clean for accurate measurements using plastic cling or even a bag
@PLJ gave me the best advise for mixing resin research epoxy which I highly recommend using for your repairs
forum.surfer.com
Resin Research Quik Kick???
Is it alright to store Resin Research Quik Kick with pump instead of cap inside plastic storage box in shed outside of home? I would only have pump on 2 pints "A" and "B" epoxy and only use it for home ding repair.
forum.surfer.com
Epoxy glassing technique is very different than polyester. You move the resin slowly. One thing I really like is there is very little waste. The photo below is the waste after laminating my deck, a few drops. Nothing in the bucket. The ones that look like big drops are ones were I actually scooped up the drop with a squeegee to wet an air bubble (I can only do this when the paper is brand new, clean). Compare that to the waste of a production polyester glass job.
Also, I don't know why people say you have to be clinical about epoxy ratios. I use the usual measuring cups (never used a scale), am not anal about it and never had issues. Even mixing tiny amounts for ding repairs, where I basically eyeball the 2:1 ratio because the gradations on the cup are too big, I've had no problems.
Finally I will mention with Resin Research CE, there are fast, slow and extra slow hardeners, and you can mix the hardeners to vary the pot life and flip times. Today was hot so I used 100% slow. It gives me all the time I need to do the lam with no hurry, and since I am not planning on doing anything else today the 3 5 hour flip time isn't an issue.
Oh, and you can go back an hour after lamming, when the resin is gummy, like play-doh consistency, and you can wet/squeeze out or pinch any air bubbles.
And it's stronger, more heat resistant, and yellows less.
Also, I don't know why people say you have to be clinical about epoxy ratios. I use the usual measuring cups (never used a scale), am not anal about it and never had issues. Even mixing tiny amounts for ding repairs, where I basically eyeball the 2:1 ratio because the gradations on the cup are too big, I've had no problems.
Finally I will mention with Resin Research CE, there are fast, slow and extra slow hardeners, and you can mix the hardeners to vary the pot life and flip times. Today was hot so I used 100% slow. It gives me all the time I need to do the lam with no hurry, and since I am not planning on doing anything else today the 3
Oh, and you can go back an hour after lamming, when the resin is gummy, like play-doh consistency, and you can wet/squeeze out or pinch any air bubbles.
And it's stronger, more heat resistant, and yellows less.
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If the board is still pretty new . Zip it up in a day bag . Put in sun 10 min .
Open day bag just a hair and take a wiff. If it has a chemical smell it's a pupe
Open day bag just a hair and take a wiff. If it has a chemical smell it's a pupe
Why the bag? I’d just cook under the sun for good measure. Cure time on a fresh stick is longer than most think?
I did about 10 boards with epoxy over PU and they all dent. A hit that would make a big shatter on a PE glassed board will make a big old dent when glassed with epoxy. Makes for good footwells.
watched an entire laminating process at dark arts and I was blown away at the amount of resin that came off the board (lack thereof). insane compared to pe
Bag makes it easy to smell .
Pupe takes like 6 months to finish offgassing
Yes, I have had this happen with standard poly/pu.
The boards were so light.
After a few waves they looked like I had been riding them for months - pressure dings all over the top and bottom.
I'm thinking it was the manufacturer just used whatever blanks they had lying around + overcatalyzed to meet their "Custom board in 2 weeks" goals.
As far as epoxy/pu goes, Proctor was the only guy who ever seemed to do them right. They felt just like standard poly/PU and were bulletproof. Downside is they would turn puke green instead of yellowing.
Epoxy has to be done right, and those who don't have the process figured out from beginning to end tend to make an inferior product.
I keep my boards in a little closet in my house.
All my boards tend to be glassed at the same two places. It's been many years since I brought a board home and I was able to smell offgassing.