So ridiculously big. But I've seen the CA coast bigger, in '97/98 during the most gnarly El Nino ever. That year, we saw waves breaking we didn't even know existed.I think I've seen bigger swell before. Maybe not as clean though. Early 00s? Late 90s?. When was that big storm that had winds over 100 mph in the hills north of the Carquinez Strait?
This is the snap I took when I was coming home:
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Big Wednesday coming on 12/2/20
- Thread starter sponge
- Start date
pretty day/wave. thanks for posting.
reinforces how lame socal is on just about every level possible
Too young to remember that year. But have heard many old timers talk about that year, and have read many surf articles that reference it. Must have been an amazing year to be a surfer.
So glad I watched that. Could not get out and was in my office all day bumming that I was missing an epic day. Sand bars are not groomed for solid swell... Not too big either since it looked like N.peak was ridable and not a river out to sea. FOMO attack has been squashed.
Back in the 80's Senor Sopa, I and maybe 1 or 2 others on here used get days like that with maybe 30-40 guys and think it was too crowded... Looks like it would have been real fun though. Happy I got my fill and then some over the weekend up north.
Back in the early 2000s I would get days like that with 30-40 guys and think it was too crowded.
Also glad I watched - I bailed for other spots due to time/crowd concerns. If you can go right, it's not really big.
Some epic shots from one of the best days at Mavericks, ever.
www.surfline.com
Maverick's: Day of Days
Full coverage from arguably the best dawn-to-dusk paddle day ever at Mav's
I'm sure we hassled each other for sets on a few of those days. From the early 80s up until about a year or so ago I used to head down the hill 4+ days a week religiously. Scored so many epic days that I don't really feel bad about missing a few days here and there. Plus at 54 my lust for the heavy ones has waned a bit. These days once it gets 2.5OH out there I get real selective.
Undoubtedly. I was there pretty much every day for a good stretch and we would probably recognize each other. Of course, the crowds used to thin out at head high plus, then double, now they don't at all. At 38, the heavy ones are all I lust for now. The last time I paddled out there was the Jan 25 swell - if it isn't DOH or magically uncrowded, I have better uses of my time and energy.
I've, uh, learned the hard way to get selective with my wave choices out there. "12 feet and draining, 15 yards behind South Peak? Fuck it, only one way to find out!" doesn't work as well when there are 3 guys going in front of you and 40 more to dodge as you straighten out.
Another view of Twiggies wave. Absolutely insane. Click image to see bigger version. Mind blown.
That guy is a nice guy. Gentle voice. Seen him in SD and Hawaii. He isn't a surfer really, though he does sometimes I think. In one of his videos he talks about his wife dying of cancer and how they loved Hawaii and filming got him through, etc. Duke somehow ties into it if I remember. He pretty much films the NS, Windan and some other SD spots that are in no way even close to unknown. He isn't selling anything. On this list of horrible people involved in surfing he is probably around 148,493,110,394 on the list and certainly behind some of the jerkoffs at Blacks.
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Your late 20's to your mid 40's are your prime charging years IMO. I used to froth for big closeouts through the mid beach rip because no one wanted them but me, Tad and my friend Chris. Now I when I head into that black hole I'm thinking WTF I'm doing... I still go on good N. Peak. The wedge entry is too much like crack to give up yet but I see that day coming.
I hear you on the use of time and energy. I've been body surfing way more than anything these days and it is so much more enjoyable than hassling for set waves that kooks snowball you on anyways... My flipper quiver is starting rival my board quiver these days.
