Yes! I've seen that and am on a mission to not let that be me. The body surfing keeps me in better shape than just going surfing. That noted, I am realistic about my declining desire to do cartwheels under water on huge (for me) days anymore. Due to crowds, time, etc... I am more apt to go to a less intense spot and get a bunch of fun waves vs battle and dodge the masses for a couple of bombs that I'd be forced to straighten out on and take a beating.
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Big Wednesday coming on 12/2/20
- Thread starter sponge
- Start date
I couldn't believe how bad I got between Spring beach closures and summer inconsistency. Humbling what six weeks of lots of sitting/desk and no practice can do.
Last year, during the first week of my winter break I threw out my back while surfing. I was out of the water for 6 months and am still not 100%.
This year? So I'm surfing the tail end of the swell yesterday. I get a fun one on my 7-7 twin fin, just doing big rollercoasters and loving the carve. Then two groms on long boards drop in. Both of them eat it. I try to drop under them and drive around but, as I'm going by the carnage, one of the boards flies up out of the whitewash at me. Fins first. I block it. (it was headed toward my head) but catch the fin with my hand.
14 stitches and a trip next week to a hand specialist to see about possible tendon damage. MD last night told me they might take out the sutures to poke around.
I screamed at the groms.. "DA FUK!" They gave me the old, "We didn't see you" and I replied, "FUKKIN LOOK! Kooks!" Later I felt kind of bad about going off on the groms (probably 13 -14 years old). But maybe they'll think twice about shoulder hopping. In the meantime I think they FUKKT my winter break.
Bye!
This year? So I'm surfing the tail end of the swell yesterday. I get a fun one on my 7-7 twin fin, just doing big rollercoasters and loving the carve. Then two groms on long boards drop in. Both of them eat it. I try to drop under them and drive around but, as I'm going by the carnage, one of the boards flies up out of the whitewash at me. Fins first. I block it. (it was headed toward my head) but catch the fin with my hand.
14 stitches and a trip next week to a hand specialist to see about possible tendon damage. MD last night told me they might take out the sutures to poke around.
I screamed at the groms..
"DA FUK!" They gave me the old, "We didn't see you" and I replied, "FUKKIN LOOK! Kooks!" Later I felt kind of bad about going off on the groms (probably 13 -14 years old). But maybe they'll think twice about shoulder hopping. In the meantime I think they FUKKT my winter break.Bye!
I want no part of that current. It just recycles you through the closeout. Bigger than double and I'm getting out to paddle back through Cowards to South Peak.
gonna have to pull pud left handed throughout an entire vacation. sad times!Last year, during the first week of my winter break I threw out my back while surfing. I was out of the water for 6 months and am still not 100%.
This year? So I'm surfing the tail end of the swell yesterday. I get a fun one on my 7-7 twin fin, just doing big rollercoasters and loving the carve. Then two groms on long boards drop in. Both of them eat it. I try to drop under them and drive around but, as I'm going by the carnage, one of the boards flies up out of the whitewash at me. Fins first. I block it. (it was headed toward my head) but catch the fin with my hand.
14 stitches and a trip next week to a hand specialist to see about possible tendon damage. MD last night told me they might take out the sutures to poke around.
I screamed at the groms..
Bye!
View attachment 102173
Getting stuck in the Zone of Death is not fun. No shame in taking a lap, I've tucked tail and made that walk so many times.
Doof loves Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz loves Doof
He backpaddles the boys and styles the tube
With a great big meth bark
And very little bite
The real locals are Great and White
From Dec 3rd.
I should really buy a camera. Not the same wave, just worth showing expectations vs reality
I should really buy a camera. Not the same wave, just worth showing expectations vs reality
Peter Mel made TMZ Sports
www.tmz.com
Crazy 50-Foot Wave at Mavericks and Surfer Peter Mel Owns it
Huge. Scary. Terrifying. Take your pick ... they all apply for the wave you're about to see -- and yet, surfer Peter Mel totally owned this insane wall of water!!!
www.tmz.com
Possibly one the most heaviest wave ever paddled into by a human....Peter Mel made TMZ Sports
Crazy 50-Foot Wave at Mavericks and Surfer Peter Mel Owns it
Huge. Scary. Terrifying. Take your pick ... they all apply for the wave you're about to see -- and yet, surfer Peter Mel totally owned this insane wall of water!!!
John Mel is a friend and Mentor. Peter was that little Grom growing up. Some of the locals used to pick on him and make him cry.
Go back and read through the first page. Nice she is not.
I don't even think about it as tucking tail. I think about it as akin to doing a lap at a pointbreak. That's the paddleout zone, where you don't have to duckdive canyon sets, fight the currents, or dodge shoulderhoppers to get back out.
