Big Wednesday coming on 12/2/20

hammies

Duke status
Apr 8, 2006
15,588
14,231
113
Balls of steel! What a ride on a nucking futz wave! Staying high at 0:05 is pure insanity.
 

Leaverite

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Dec 19, 2017
7,924
1,092
113
Central Cal
Yah, he is finally starting to look his age. The guy has surfed every big wave spot in the world, many times over. Traveled the world. Surfed on ASP tour and WSL big wave tour. Surfed the biggest rawest Mavericks of all time and got the cover.

Pretty amazing surfer life he has led. I wonder how much longer he'll keep surfing Mavericks, with other SC guys long retired from big waves that are his age or younger.

Pete was down here on this part of the Central Coast a couple weeks ago. :beer:

Edit: CDIP model just went black for Norcal. :oops: :drowning:

View attachment 101980
Could be a historic swell tomorrow for deep water spots. Wind down here forecast for offshore.

@Leaverite you said last night you could quit naming spots. Apparently that was a lie. Get it together man.
``v It's good.
It's big here. Too big for all but our deep water reefs which are holding but as usual, wind is a bit wonky. Biggest spots are pushing 20'. Smaller spots in 12' range. Gonna drive towards Morro to check a few more spots.

Definitely not the biggest I've ever seen on the Central Coast, which was Fall of the 97/98 El Nino. But still pretty damn big. There is a lot of sand getting blasted and moved around. Will be interesting to see where it goes.
Nobody is there......
 

Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
26,594
19,522
113
Jacksonville Beach
Please god/karma/nature send a third of that to the forsaken east coast.
For real. I’m in central Florida for a few more weeks. I would love even one overhead day and maybe a few chest high days with warm water before it’s back to LB after Xmas
That run from mid-September to Thanksgiving weekend was one of, if not THE, most consistent run of surf I've seen in 31 years.

We have a slightly below average hurricane season and a slightly below average winter, and you could easily go from March of one year to Sept/Oct/Nov the next year without getting an overhead day.

Subway you are currently on surf alert for Wednesday morning, and that will be a head to the public parking just North of the condo you looked at condition set, with a massive high tide, peaky short period, and wind going offshore in the night. It will probably change but as of right now, looks like some tubelets would be on offer.

This was a weird "fall" out here. We had the strongest cold front we'll probably get all year before calendar Autumn began, and we had early October for like 2.5 months after that. Then, after Thanksgiving, it went straight to January.

Stocked for West Coast; great photos and tales of triumph and beatings. YEEEEEWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!!!
 

r32

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 1, 2005
18,089
9,773
113
Cambria
When's the last time you saw someone draw a line like that on a drop at mavs!o_O
If I were to drop into that wave (I wouldn't have), and I was to draw a top line like that (I wouldn't have), I most definitely would have lost my rail and went for the unintended platform diving triple gainer with two and half somersault twist, pike position.
 

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,374
2,181
113
Ponto
Balls of steel! What a ride on a nucking futz wave! Staying high at 0:05 is pure insanity.
How is high line insanity? The guys that go to the bottom are the ones that get left behind. Watch footage of Nazare, the guys that make it stay high, those that try to get to the bottom struggle. Black's breaks like this, even Cardiff will pass you if don't get up and go. Jaw's too, the "impossible" high line is the one that makes too the shoulder.
 
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Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,309
4,718
113
The roll ins over the ledge (and I know roll in sounds a bit dismissive) are nuts.
Pete's wave was nuts.
Twiggy's is one of the biggest I've ever seen.
Willem has shots of his airdrop wave that are filthy.

I'm still waiting to see some of the gold that people must be holding back, but I wonder where they plan on publishing them?
 

r32

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 1, 2005
18,089
9,773
113
Cambria
The roll ins over the ledge (and I know roll in sounds a bit dismissive) are nuts.
Pete's wave was nuts.
Twiggy's is one of the biggest I've ever seen.
Willem has shots of his airdrop wave that are filthy.

I'm still waiting to see some of the gold that people must be holding back, but I wonder where they plan on publishing them?
Is there anywhere to publish surf photos anymore? Few rag mags overseas and Surfers Journal is pretty much it. Other than that, it's all about Instagram.

I remember the first time I went into the SurfING offices way back in the day. It was the mid 90s and i was just a college kid trying to make my way through the grind. I was dropping off some slides I had recently taken and a few of the guys were showing me around the offices. We went to the photo archive room. They had 10000's of slides archived from all over the world. Binders upon binders of poly sheets filled will jaw dropping slides.

I flipped through a few of the binders and was blown away at the amount of stellar 'mag worthy' shots. Then the reality hit me that 99% of those shots the world will never see. They only had so much room for shots in each issue + content for each issue was planned out well in advance + the amount of new shots they received every month from around the world was ridiculous.

It kind of blew my mind, but in a way it helped me instantly realize making a living as a surf photog is damn near impossible. Oddly, nothing has really changed.
 

Ranga

Billy Hamilton status
Dec 31, 2008
1,685
1,427
113
Wow...way smaller than I thought it would be and just as crowded. Soooo many drop ins!
I surfed Blacks a lot when I lived in SD - I think it's kind of a hoax. Good sometimes, but def not the best wave in the County, or even in LJ.
 

Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
26,594
19,522
113
Jacksonville Beach
Lots of drop ins and an unbelievable amount of sections paddled down onto people in that video. The worst part was, half the time, it was like the fourth time someone who OBVIOUSLY wasn't going to fall had to stop what they were doing/going to do, go around a section paddled down on them, reset/re-assess....for the next section someone was going to paddle down on them.

I'd say a rough guess of the dick measurement would be on the order of 750, maybe 800 CentiJunoPiers.
 
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r32

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 1, 2005
18,089
9,773
113
Cambria
How's that inside left?!
That inside left is probably 12'-15' on the face.

Waves on the outerbar have always reminded me of Belharra in France. If you look at them through a good set of bincoulars, they look very similar to Belharra in shape and how they break. Imagine paddling 2 miles out to ride one of those babies.


 

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,309
4,718
113
Which one? The guys that dropped in or the filmer dude that was operating 1-of-the-3 drones that were flying around that day?
The guy that posted the video.

Its not a secret spot by any means, but you don't need to put the report, the video, the name of the spot, the weird Duke tribute (?)

It's rude.
 
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Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,904
7,815
113
San Francisco, CA
Woke, have you ever seen it this big? This is as big as it's been since I started paying attention 5 years ago.

I think I've seen bigger swell before. Maybe not as clean though. Early 00s? Late 90s?. When was that big storm that had winds over 100 mph in the hills north of the Carquinez Strait?



Drove up to take a look-see this morning. Big and washing out pretty much everything up there. A little chunky from some East wind bump. Saw a rideable looking wave at Greyhound, and the next wave closed out across the channel.
This is the snap I took when I was coming home from Santa Cruz on Tuesday:


(click on photo for larger image)

Edit: It seemed like the swell cleaned up the further north from Santa Cruz I went, which is not the usual case.
 
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