Surfed shitty, cold, backwashy SH waves this morning at low tide for 45 minutes. Saw a guy swimming down the beach out where I was, about 100 yards offshore, with no wetsuit on. The water is 58 and there was a decent current and rip and no one around for miles. F that
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Saturday looked sick.
I did not get to surf.
I filed a complaint with management.
I did not get to surf.
I filed a complaint with management.
Did it get better at like 9:30-10? It looked like the wind backed off a hair and wobbled around a little more N/NNW?
I showed up at HQ before dawn and the wind was already Northing up something fierce hours before it was supposed to, at like double the predicted velocity. One of the bigger WRONGs from the Weather Channel in recent memory for me. Size was good, peakyness was good, tide was too fat, wind was fuct and getting fucter. I wanted to motivate but I was looking at side-chopped one cutback mushouts and I'd already had a drift of that the night before, with noticeably more size.
If low tide was 6:30 yesterday instead of 10:15 IMHO today would have been very fun and yesterday would have been very very fun.
Activity is picking back up but timing has not been our ally. Blown early Saturday. Wind turns offshore like an hour after sunset Sunday. Blowing out before sunrise Monday. And the tides won't even bro it out.
Yes something about the low tide sessions last Thursday, the swell combination specifically, was just correct and punching above the buoy readings.
Less than half the size of yesterday, but still solid OH and good fun. Cruised on the 8'0 Keogh.
Talked to another dude about yesterday's swell. His GPS watch said he covered 26km in two sessions. Respectable.
Talked to another dude about yesterday's swell. His GPS watch said he covered 26km in two sessions. Respectable.
F’ing idiot broke my wrist playing b-ball. You all should get a minimum of 6 good weeks of surf. You’re welcome.
first surf back home. waves were pretty fun. well above average for around here meaning there was an actual channel and waves were standing up in the same general area. of course there was also cross chop, swirling currents, fat sections and some driftwood floating around for good measure.
rode the bomdia which felt good on the good ones and kind of boggy on the soft ones. even though it was head high or so I think something fishier would have been a better call. still, got a couple that stood up from start to finish and let me get a few turns in.
rode the bomdia which felt good on the good ones and kind of boggy on the soft ones. even though it was head high or so I think something fishier would have been a better call. still, got a couple that stood up from start to finish and let me get a few turns in.
When it rains like it has down here recently, I assume the PNW is close to Noah’s Ark territory.
It's been absolutely dumping. The beaches are completely rearranged. Land slides all over. HWY 101 cracking and sliding into the sea in multiple places.
On the plus side many of the classic sand bars are looking pretty set up. Just need the swell to come down a bit.
@Goofy_Footed Saw the swimmers this morning up the street.
Fun early until it drained off the inside. Hands-down the most fun inside sandbar I've surfed in a minute and a half. Personally 6.2' tide at the size we had should have been flooded soft, not shutting down 1:15 after the peak.
Fun early until it drained off the inside. Hands-down the most fun inside sandbar I've surfed in a minute and a half. Personally 6.2' tide at the size we had should have been flooded soft, not shutting down 1:15 after the peak.
Those swimmers are nuts!
Thought I blew it by not surfing early this morning, but ended up having a super fun 2 hr sesh around 11:30 as the tide drained out.
Got out about half an hour ago. Several people getting on it. B/C grade spots liking the big tides.
everything is green. The post storm surf is fun. Chipped a tooth stuffing it on a steep drop, that’s expensive ding repair
Cold, grey drizzle. Slight onshore winds. Meager swell. Somehow let my buddy talk me into a session.
Rode the Disco Cheater. It did not feel grovely enough. A couple decent waves came through but I was never really in the spot. My buddy got a good one on his Hypto Twin so at least he was stocked.
I don't think the water was any colder than yesterday, guessing 51-52F, but it felt colder and I opted to drive home and un-suit in the hot shower which was undoubtedly the highlight of the whole ordeal.
Rode the Disco Cheater. It did not feel grovely enough. A couple decent waves came through but I was never really in the spot. My buddy got a good one on his Hypto Twin so at least he was stocked.
I don't think the water was any colder than yesterday, guessing 51-52F, but it felt colder and I opted to drive home and un-suit in the hot shower which was undoubtedly the highlight of the whole ordeal.