@Bob Dobbalina I popped up there on Saturday as well. Maybe an hour and change behind you. Similar story for me. There were some insanely good waves amidst the chaos of the crowd and that inner bar current.
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Drove south for a sunrise session at a fun sandbar this morning. Offshore and a touch overhead. Friendly crowd. Kinda fried from the weekend, so I took out a longer board: my 6.4 chris gallagher with AM2s. felt nice to have a little extra board and cruise.
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still waves out there 
nice 2 hours at the decent point break up the road.
nice 2 hours at the decent point break up the road.
2 hours at the queen- still some energy, but lulls were long. Ended up getting 5 long long runners from the top to the flagpole. Took out a more 'normal' shortboard to start working on my turns. Class is in session for me.
Overhead, Sunny, glassy, very few out, dropping tide, now having milk tea boba and spicy tuna on crunchy rice. WTF?!!!
Another glorious sesh. Feels like Fall… sunny, glassy, warm. Different reef, higher tide than yesterday but still clean, playful WH-SH runners. 5 guys out, but they really didn’t know where to sit. I sat deeper but inside of them, and the high tide sets would look like they were gonna break outside but then roll under them and right to me. Stocked. Plasmasym been feeling great lately.
Fcuk yeah - just the day I was dreaming of after 6 busy days at work. Clean OH++ swell hitting the points nicely, and everybody wanted a taste, but managed to time my morning surf to paddle out just when the dawn patrol tradesmen etc paddled in, so only 5 of us in glorious waves. 6'10 DS.
Had breakfast and walked the dog, then took the 8'0 Keogh out at midday. Only one other guy at Outsides, so we stuffed ourselves with powerful point waves.
Red eyes, sore back muscles, big smile. Another humid 80-85F day.
Had breakfast and walked the dog, then took the 8'0 Keogh out at midday. Only one other guy at Outsides, so we stuffed ourselves with powerful point waves.
Red eyes, sore back muscles, big smile. Another humid 80-85F day.
Shirked responsibility the past 2 days with lots of stress and limited time:
Yesterday— mid beach looked solid/messy late morning-noonish with no takers, opted for VFWs since there were 2-3 other people out, grabbed my 7’0”. Annoying paddle, ended up caught inside of an inner bar double up, pushed deep, held under, 5+ strokes to the surface and started to question if I was even swimming the right direction. Been in a funk lately of being a huge pussy so I went in.
Today—mid afternoon, conditions on the cam looked clean and fun, grabbed a 6’2” and went to mid beach. Thought I found a gap to paddle out when looking from the dunes, boy was I wrong. 15-20 minutes of straight paddling to finally get outside to the inner bar. Moderate crowd. Right when I got out to the lineup I was right in position for a wedge-to-bowl set wave coming right at me with no other takers close enough. Chip-shot drop in, for a split second considered pulling in but decided against it as it was a close out, once I got to the bottom it was well overhead, took a second to appreciate the back light before straightening out and getting detonated on, and then my face dragged across the bottom as it was like waist deep—glad I didn’t pull in. Gathered my board and ended up back in the soup-another 10-15 minutes of paddling going nowhere, cursing the heavens, and then went in to go home and get back to work.
Yesterday— mid beach looked solid/messy late morning-noonish with no takers, opted for VFWs since there were 2-3 other people out, grabbed my 7’0”. Annoying paddle, ended up caught inside of an inner bar double up, pushed deep, held under, 5+ strokes to the surface and started to question if I was even swimming the right direction. Been in a funk lately of being a huge pussy so I went in.
Today—mid afternoon, conditions on the cam looked clean and fun, grabbed a 6’2” and went to mid beach. Thought I found a gap to paddle out when looking from the dunes, boy was I wrong. 15-20 minutes of straight paddling to finally get outside to the inner bar. Moderate crowd. Right when I got out to the lineup I was right in position for a wedge-to-bowl set wave coming right at me with no other takers close enough. Chip-shot drop in, for a split second considered pulling in but decided against it as it was a close out, once I got to the bottom it was well overhead, took a second to appreciate the back light before straightening out and getting detonated on, and then my face dragged across the bottom as it was like waist deep—glad I didn’t pull in. Gathered my board and ended up back in the soup-another 10-15 minutes of paddling going nowhere, cursing the heavens, and then went in to go home and get back to work.
finally got back in the water today, it has been one thing after another this month, I never should have started the surf journal, its a curse! anyway i surfed today and got some great waves and on a couple set waves, for a few seconds I forgot about the sewage fiasco in my house, the surgery recovery of my loved one, wife and I getting covid 2 weeks ago after 4 years of dodging it, the great san diego flood aka my house is at the bottom of the hood and prone to flooding if it gets gnarly, and it did, refrigerator dying, former student dying, my kids car is not passing smog. but I tore the sh!t out of a set wave today, it was epic.
kenson twinzer for the win.
kenson twinzer for the win.
Went back out for a sunset session
it had gotten better. Scorefest continues.
it had gotten better. Scorefest continues.
I have been on my 5’10 alpha omega for every session since I got it
On the really big swell a few weeks back I rode my 6’3 black beauty, a 6’7 griffin quad and 6’8 and 7’2 channel bottom beamish Twins.
I relate to this one..
Didn't have much fomo from Sunday or Monday until a friend sent me some pics/video from around the hood, so this report makes me feel better about it.
The inner bar has been brutal this winter. Sat. on the 6’3 twinpin one sq barrel.overhead wave bottom sucked out went sq and dark. Seemed like forever finally popped out to light to hit a warble and I starfishe out into the shoulder. Board now has significant stress cracks on the bottom. Sunday took out the 7’2 twin and pulled into a few close out walls. Ugh.
yesterday thought about trying the otter bar with the 7’10 but getting through the inner bar looked not so fun.
So fun out there, again. Pushing the twin fin simmons thing in overhead, glassy beach break walls. Spring launch bottom turns and high speed lines. Shoulders are smoked from holding onto the beast while getting worked as much as from paddling. But its so fun I can’t get off it lately, addicted to the speed
high tide mid morning, sat inside and grabbed enough to get back in rhythm, 2 days in a row,, look out daily wavester, don't call it a comeback.
I was about to paddle out at the same spot as yesterday as it looked like a good option. But by the time I suited up and was walking from the car, the crowd had doubled and the wind came up enough to soften it a bit. I wasn’t feelin it. Got back in car and drove over to the main reef... in full (dry) wetsuit #KOTD!
Was totally worth it cause the main reef was slight sidehore wind on punchy little WH-CH wedges that would stand up and run down the line. Was in a great rhythm and in the right spot. Got about 13-15 waves in 30 min, should've gone in on a good one almost all the way to the sand, but thought "one more". Paddled back out only to sit through a bit of a lull for 10 min then snagged a couple more. Really playful and fun conditions. Plasmaysm continues to impress, felt glued to my feet, could do no wrong. My good run continues.
Was totally worth it cause the main reef was slight sidehore wind on punchy little WH-CH wedges that would stand up and run down the line. Was in a great rhythm and in the right spot. Got about 13-15 waves in 30 min, should've gone in on a good one almost all the way to the sand, but thought "one more". Paddled back out only to sit through a bit of a lull for 10 min then snagged a couple more. Really playful and fun conditions. Plasmaysm continues to impress, felt glued to my feet, could do no wrong. My good run continues.