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I feel like i can push my lower volume boards harder.Volume needs/wants are going to vary with how the surfer surfs as well. A more powerful surfer needs something to lay into. Too little volume and he has to back off re the force he is putting into his turns. He needs something that enables him to utilize his power. Something that pushes back a little. A big guy swings a bigger bat. If he uses a smaller one he's hamstringing his power advantage.
I used to get guys that would want to chase volume numbers out to the second decimal place. It's absurd. It's a valuable number, but it's hardly the end-all-be-all some people seem to think it is. That said, at 205-210 pounds, I hover around 40 liters. It all varies according to what the board is, what it was designed for, how I'm surfing and what it is being ridden in. Not that long ago I rode a tiny board that was in the sub 35 range, and the board went well in utter slop. The thing was so flat it was ridiculous.
It's easier to swing that little bat. But I would argue that once you figure it out, the result, the flow into the next maneuver, is better with higher volume. IMHO. To a point anyway. And there is how it feels vs how it looks.I feel like i can push my lower volume boards harder.
I probably look like sh!t when I surf.It's easier to swing that little bat. But I would argue that once you figure it out, the result, the flow into the next maneuver, is better with higher volume. IMHO. To a point anyway. And there is how it feels vs how it looks.
Years ago, I milled a few boards to one of the better, larger pros. Watching him surf, I was convinced he'd surf better on more volume. Casual conversation with his father, he agreed with me. But the pro wasn't convinced. He liked the feel of the lower volume boards. Fast forward a couple of years and I saw a difference. Ran into dad. He confirmed that yes, he had finally convinced his son to incorporate a bit more volume into his boards. His turns looked more powerful, big maneuvers were linked with more speed. There was more flow. He didn't look as choppy. IMO, his average speed on a given wave had increased.
Smaller people have some advantages surfing. The only advantage a larger guy has is power. You can either attempt to surf like a little guy and beat him at his own game, or you can take the power end of your game to a point where the little guy has difficulty competing.
Or not. At the end of the day this is only surfing. And the only thing that really matters for most of us is how it feels.
You forgot to add the silly spelling of Litres.dividing by 6 is mixing freedom units and real scientific measurements. If you want to keep it the same units it's L/kg so i.e 33L/78kg=0,42 for me. That way you get a meaningful fraction instead of just some number.
If you wanna stay compliant to the second ammendment then it'll be gallon surfboard/pounds weight and then whatever fraction you get from that.
definite difference between shapers. I've found the most "true to size" for me is PyzelI used to be pretty consistent with volume, but after trying alot of different shapers I've noticed it doesnt always transfer. Good starting point, but I've had a few misses that I wish I had ordered differently. Sometimes the old under the arm can still be telling to lean me one way or another.
Same with me and I have recent acquisitions that confirm that....
I dont think lower volume boards have ever felt like they catch waves better to me.
... .
JJF is about 180 pounds and rides a 27L ghost at TOH Pipeline.Never ever felt that either, nor seen it in in the flesh.
I think that is just a psychosomatic reaction that people riding low volume boards tell themselves.
Almost every CT level surfer looks better and surfs better on more volume.
Thats now well documented - exhibit A, B, C etc etc : JJF, Kolohe Andino, Jordy Smith, Ethan Ewing, Medina,. Italo, Barron Mamiya etc etc etc.