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Surfboard volume = your weight / 6
- Thread starter Duffy LaCoronilla
- Start date
Most of the pros who were trying to followJJF and ride tiny boards at Pipe (6'2''s)have now gone up to 6'5's or 6'6's.
Even Barron Mamiya.
JJF also added volume to his HPSB's and immediately improved his surfing- that was a little while ago.
Even Barron Mamiya.
JJF also added volume to his HPSB's and immediately improved his surfing- that was a little while ago.
Yeah, I heard that interview.
His Chemistry's were TINY.
I think his Sharp Eyes were small too.
Sounds like CI said, "yeah, that's cute".
I used to be in this camp. Back when I was on the Coil surfboard trip I was riding what was probably 27-29 liters at 185lbs. I had that 'swim' the board into the takeoff down but that's just putting yourself in the best position/angle on takeoff. Didn't hurt that I was a competitive swimmer in my younger days either.
In recent years after several shoulder dislocations, weight gain, age, its just too uncomfortable on my shoulders to to be that low in the water paddling. Plus after trying a buddy's 5'10 tomo evo at 39 liters was an eye opener for me and have since moved up to the 34-36L range on my boards. Tim Stamps was a huge help getting me dialed in at a higher volume.
Currently at 188lbs /6 = 31.ish liters. Add 1 liter for age (52yrs) and 2 liters for my surf level (nowhere near pro) puts me at 34.ish L. Feels pretty spot on.
I am, 50 yrs. old, just shy of 6 feet and I try to keep my weight under 165. I think my sweet spot is 30L boars, but I can make my 27L fred rubble go in better waves. I find arching the sh!t out of my back and being a little forward on the boar is the trick for catching waves on a small boar.
Keeping my weight down is a priority cause I just wanna surf. Plenty of time to be fat when I'm dead.
Keeping my weight down is a priority cause I just wanna surf. Plenty of time to be fat when I'm dead.
What? His shortboards are like 30L + these days, presumably he's on even more foam with his stepups.
Care to elaborate on the reverse duck dive? As in, what is it?
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This formula does seem best suited for pros. If you’re a nimble paddler and catching a lot of waves with /6 volume, you are an absolute beast. Or younger and surfing a ton.
I’m 185, 6’2”, 39 years old and on 33L for my 6’1” shortboard.
The best variable to mess with for paddle power is length IMO. At least for me.
I’m 185, 6’2”, 39 years old and on 33L for my 6’1” shortboard.
The best variable to mess with for paddle power is length IMO. At least for me.
The shortboards I have now are 32L and change. maybe 32.7. 6'2"
They'd be fine if I surfed somewhere else. They're ok in the summer time here.
But I need to switch something.
Obviously larger days not withstanding,
There are days I want something shorter and chippier.
There are days when I want something with more glide.
I used to ride kind of alty boards fairly often and some of them I loved. I just don't have free access to all kinds of boards anymore.
They'd be fine if I surfed somewhere else. They're ok in the summer time here.
But I need to switch something.
Obviously larger days not withstanding,
There are days I want something shorter and chippier.
There are days when I want something with more glide.
I used to ride kind of alty boards fairly often and some of them I loved. I just don't have free access to all kinds of boards anymore.
I reckon popping the tail is only for specific chip in type situations. For getting into big deep water southern ocean point breaks which you like (and I dont do anymore), length, volume, picking the right runway where I could build a bit of paddling momentum is what got me in.
For little hp and short gravel boar takeoffs in smaller waves its getting used to a shorter opportunity to start catching and get to the feet. Because I have weak arms it also involves a fair bit of leg kick for me.
The divide by 6 formula is only of academic interest to me, no practical use at all. Even my annual gulf of thailand gravel dims puts me more than 3 and half litres overvolumed.
