Fun left beachies this morning on the townsend. Trying to keep it cruisy but couldnt help but carve a couple begging sections. Super fun. Short arm 2 mil felt perfect. No sign of new swell yet, maybe tonight it will fill in.
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I think “trannies” is frowned upon these days. When did you relocate to SE Asia?Windy and drained out point surf this evening. First half of the session was very slow and lulled out. Everyone was wanting to paddle under eachother and work too deep so i played along for a bit and then snuck back down to the good corner and got some great wide ones. Really fun shortboard waves. Chest to head high with perfect trannies and a little crumble to turn off of. Bomdia felt great as always. Probably could use some flexier fins for smaller waves.
Any pics of that Beamish twin?Went on an adventure yesterday got up two hours before sunrise
spot 1 was well OH rights. A gnarly muddy hike to score 6-10 rights with fun fast drops and big turns on big sections .
‘surfed my black beauty. did lots of arm waving ugly surfing. Not many people around.
second session . anohter full mission spot. small friendly crew on it. big shifty peaks , lots of water moving round. some major beatings handed out with moments of glory. Paddle mission to get in was not fun! Surfed a 6’7 semi gun and could have used more board!
third session . Large OH ppointbreak. Giant walls that required a big board to surf effectively . a super user friendly spot event at size, a welcome fun session,.
surfed a 7’ beamish channel bottom twin and embraced my inner hipster.
fuck! The thing was so fun. swooping around and making sections with ease.
off for another mission today.
friends board, just asked him to snap a few and send to me. it was 7’2 x 20 ish x 3”Any pics of that Beamish twin?
Actual nice photos! There are some who try to do surf photos here and their collection of out of focus, apey surfing in bad light is marvelousMy 2023 surf journal. Didn't shoot as much this year but was rewarded every time I got the camera out. Lucky to have a super talented crew of surfers to shoot.
Thanks!Actual nice photos! There are some who try to do surf photos here and their collection of out of focus, apey surfing in bad light is marvelous