This run of surf has been great. Just interfering with work and family life! It’s been non stop for weeks
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There are several small wave alternatives up there and I saw a picture of one of them absolutely firing yesterday. Figure it out.It's been quite large up here lately and the one small-wave alternative has been complete trash so been itching to get in the water. Today wasn't much different. Solid overhead breaking way out, no one else out at all. Saw what looked like a gap to get through somewhat unscathed with a nice left breaking just to the south. Shouldn't have been much issue to paddle over to that left. WRONG. Completely underestimated the northbound current, which took me right out into the impact zone of the very consistent right to the north. 40 minutes of non-stop duckdiving but I did eventually make it out the back. Cold water? Ha! Was sweating my ass off by the time I got out there.
I really hate myself because I needed a breather after all that and had to pass up a very nice right but it was the first wave in a very long set (which I would absolutely be taking on the head) and figured there would be plenty more. There kind of were but they were all over the place with very spread out and random takeoff zones. Current was also taking me towards an area I did not want to be, which was just a mess of rip wash with waves breaking all over. I picked two very poor waves out of that wash and called it. Just too much windchop from afternoon/evening, leaving it a bit disorganized and with a lot of water always moving. Current left me with a solid half-mile walk back to my car.
Categorize that sesh as cardio day.
dang dude I was worried for you, didn't you move further from the coast but don't you surf more now? stock!It's been quite large up here lately and the one small-wave alternative has been complete trash so been itching to get in the water. Today wasn't much different. Solid overhead breaking way out, no one else out at all. Saw what looked like a gap to get through somewhat unscathed with a nice left breaking just to the south. Shouldn't have been much issue to paddle over to that left. WRONG. Completely underestimated the northbound current, which took me right out into the impact zone of the very consistent right to the north. 40 minutes of non-stop duckdiving but I did eventually make it out the back. Cold water? Ha! Was sweating my ass off by the time I got out there.
I really hate myself because I needed a breather after all that and had to pass up a very nice right but it was the first wave in a very long set (which I would absolutely be taking on the head) and figured there would be plenty more. There kind of were but they were all over the place with very spread out and random takeoff zones. Current was also taking me towards an area I did not want to be, which was just a mess of rip wash with waves breaking all over. I picked two very poor waves out of that wash and called it. Just too much windchop from afternoon/evening, leaving it a bit disorganized and with a lot of water always moving. Current left me with a solid half-mile walk back to my car.
Categorize that sesh as cardio day.
I once saw a guy paddling out to an outer sandbar wave up there on a Wavestorm in trunks. Mid-winter. He appeared to be very out of shape. I watched for a few minutes to see if he was going to die or was simply drunk, then lost sight of him on the paddle. Fifteen or twenty minutes later I saw him absolutely tear apart a double overhead, grinding wall, then smoothly paddle back in. You never know sometimes.dang dude I was worried for you, didn't you move further from the coast but don't you surf more now? stock!
I say fvvk it and trunk it in front of those mo fo's to tell them whos boss
Yeah, not surprised. The waves sure could have used a bit more filtering than what was on par for yesterday. Would have been a far better session if I hadn't got dragged by current into no-mans land. Already knew the one smaller-wave spot in the immediate area was trash and crowded (BBQed oysters on the beach with family there Saturday PM) and didn't have time to drive around so took what was on offer, surf version of run what you brung I guess.There are several small wave alternatives up there and I saw a picture of one of them absolutely firing yesterday. Figure it out.
Thanks! Although I'd say the juice has been enjoying me quite mutually - a new soul to thrash.Sounds like you're enjoying the juice Kento. Hope the rest of the area is treating you and the fam well
So many cool spots. Hard to believe I've only been up here 2 months as have done a lot in that time! Great weather has helped.gotta have access to some killer hiking too