Last year, during the first week of my winter break I threw out my back while surfing. I was out of the water for 6 months and am still not 100%.
This year? So I'm surfing the tail end of the swell yesterday. I get a fun one on my 7-7 twin fin, just doing big rollercoasters and loving the carve. Then two groms on long boards drop in. Both of them eat it. I try to drop under them and drive around but, as I'm going by the carnage, one of the boards flies up out of the whitewash at me. Fins first. I block it. (it was headed toward my head) but catch the fin with my hand.
14 stitches and a trip next week to a hand specialist to see about possible tendon damage. MD last night told me they might take out the sutures to poke around.
I screamed at the groms..
"DA FUK!" They gave me the old, "We didn't see you" and I replied, "FUKKIN LOOK! Kooks!" Later I felt kind of bad about going off on the groms (probably 13 -14 years old). But maybe they'll think twice about shoulder hopping. In the meantime I think they FUKKT my winter break.
Bye!
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