XTR

[Lohena]

hello all - been reading through most of the pages here and figured i would ask some questions since this seems to be the most appropriate forum. most PU and eps boards i have ridden seem to dent in sooner rather than later as i am roughly 5'10.5'' and 205 ish lbs. i dont think i am heavy footed...maybe just heavy?! anyhow the only boards that seem to not dent in are firewires in lft or helium construction - carbon wrap by lost or spine-tek by CI - basically those sand which constructions.

i am currently contemplating on getting a custom pyzel phantom xl made - but i am having a tough time on which construction i want. if i go through pyzel i would obviously get an EPS made by them --however i have never owned an XTR constructed board before but the tech seems a good go between PU and EPS. light and strong. the 2 boards i in my quiver now are my FW seaside and Glazer - both being 5'8''@ 35.1 /35.4 liters. i have owned a couple different boards but these just work for me. they float me well i also think the helium and lft construction help with the buoyancy and the decks are strong - literally zero pressures on them.

i am having a hard time determining if i go down in liters or up in liters with XTR. is XTR just as boyant as the helium or lft constructions? if i want to stay at around the 35 liter mark - should i just get 35 liters in xtr or add / minus?

being a 200lbs would give me two options -
the SL - CK carbon which reminds me of the carbon wrap spine on lost boards
or the parallel carbon - which is unique to xtr.

i am having a rough time determine which of these to use and would love to hear thoughts on both? is one more stiff that the other? i really like the flex characteristics of the firewires i am using and would like to mimic that.

also when it comes to the glassing - being 200lbs - i would think that the team 8c would dent in? or am i wrong? or should i just go with the standard 8.c?? i really dont want to dent in my board - but also dont want some super stiff thing..

i am sure these could all be answered by javier down at XTR but figured i would ask here first and then use this info when i give them a ring here in the next couple of days if i decide to go the XTR route.

thanks for reading

I say parallel carbon, same volume. It's kind of in between a Helium/EPS and PU feel. Especially for a DD like the Phantom. PC is trying to move the flex out from the middle like future flex and helium. They can be on the stiff side, so I would go for flex value of 6 or even 7 for a DD.

 

[ReForest]

I've noticed that the Parallel Carbon is super light (almost too light) and the weight distribution is off compared to the helium and LFT builds. The flex feels good tho - similar to helium. The 8.C will dent a little but not like the 8.C team.

If this is your first XTR i would suggest parallel carbon with 8.0 glassing. That should feel similar to the helium tech.

 

[wdavis78]

For your first XTR I'd say go with a wood stringer/8.c. It feels great and its a safe bet. Its lighter than PU but not crazy light and the durability is good. I'm 180lbs and barely leave much of anything on the decks. Just some very light heel marks. Nothing like the craters I leave in my PU's. I'd run the same volume you like in your FW on the XTR.

thanks for your input!

 

[wdavis78]

I say parallel carbon, same volume. It's kind of in between a Helium/EPS and PU feel. Especially for a DD like the Phantom. PC is trying to move the flex out from the middle like future flex and helium. They can be on the stiff side, so I would go for flex value of 6 or even 7 for a DD.

thanks for your input! i will update you all on which direction i go

 

[wdavis78]

I've noticed that the Parallel Carbon is super light (almost too light) and the weight distribution is off compared to the helium and LFT builds. The flex feels good tho - similar to helium. The 8.C will dent a little but not like the 8.C team.

If this is your first XTR i would suggest parallel carbon with 8.0 glassing. That should feel similar to the helium tech.

thanks for your input! i will update you all on which direction i go!

 

[ChaseTMP]

I don't think the flex values are that scientific. XTR remade a board for me about two months ago and the first one was a flex value of 6 and the second, a 4. The boards were the exact same dimensions, construction etc. Mine was was 8.C SL-C. I like the board (5'6 Pyzel Astro Pop), it's more dent resistant than the Futureflexes I've received through Pureglass. My only other experience with a closed cell foam is Varial and you can dent that with a hard sneeze.

 

[trifish]

I don't think the flex values are that scientific. XTR remade a board for me about two months ago and the first one was a flex value of 6 and the second, a 4. The boards were the exact same dimensions, construction etc.

That flex number varies on my wood stringer boards also in the same construction. Didn't notice it until a friend pointed it out looking through my boards one day. Decal shortage maybe while glassing? ha.

 

[ChaseTMP]

That flex number varies on my wood stringer boards also in the same construction. Didn't notice it until a friend pointed it out looking through my boards one day. Decal shortage maybe while glassing? ha.

Yeah, not I'm sure why there should be variation between "identical" boards. The flex values are hand circled on the lams. I don't think there is some algorithm that takes all the measurements/construction type into account and a number is generated. I think it's pretty arbitrary (at least within two of their numerical values).

 

[frontsidegrab]

It's just a way for them to quantify for the end user; all the variables in an easily digestible manner. You can order the same board in two different builds and use one as a groveller(more flex) and the other as a DD(less flex). It actually works quite well, but you have to know how all of that is going to translate.
One of my favorite all time boards was a regular shortboard that I "grovelletized" by increasing the flex for my weight. Worked perfectly.

 

[Lohena]

I don't think the flex values are that scientific. XTR remade a board for me about two months ago and the first one was a flex value of 6 and the second, a 4. The boards were the exact same dimensions, construction etc. Mine was was 8.C SL-C. I like the board (5'6 Pyzel Astro Pop), it's more dent resistant than the Futureflexes I've received through Pureglass. My only other experience with a closed cell foam is Varial and you can dent that with a hard sneeze.

Did your boards have different amounts of carbon? I know flex can be manipulated in PC by adding or taking away strips of carbon. Not sure about the others though.

 

[ChaseTMP]

Did your boards have different amounts of carbon? I know flex can be manipulated in PC by adding or taking away strips of carbon. Not sure about the others though.

No, exactly the same. There was a major QC issue with the rails (one more than another) and they remade the board with the same order card. The only way to tell them apart (aside from the funky rail edges) was the new one had two XTR lams on the mid rail as opposed to the original only having one just above the tailpad. I had requested only one on the deck side of the rail on the original order card, so it seems they're hell-bent on their rail branding.

 

[wdavis78]

just an update for those who answered my questions earlier -- ended up ordering an Pyzel phantom Xl with XTR. talked with shay ( sorry if i mispelled his name wrong) who was cool on the phone and answered all of my questions thoroughly. ended up going parralel carbon #3 as i am a big boy at around 200lbs - and the flex would be ideal for HB/ trestles/sd where i surf. also went 8c glass. looking forward to my early xmas gift!

 

[racer1]

Did you add any color?

XTR turns yellow and bugs me. I always add color or spray it myself.

 

[MathDebater]

I've found the best way to keep XTR white is to order a step up while living in San Diego, never comes out of the bag, never turns yellow.

 

[wdavis78]

Did you add any color?

XTR turns yellow and bugs me. I always add color or spray it myself.

how yellow do they get? figure i could just spray it later down the road or wrap it lol.. may consider giving them a ring on monday to do a spray job.

 

[Waterlogged05]

They are pretty insistent on the rail logo.
Check this throwback , picture from 2004-2005? I was still tiny grommet pre puberty. haha im 29 now if you wanna feel old.

This was a magic board and I had a few more magic boards from midget before he passEd. Want to get a similar spray and swallowtail thruster to let his memory live on.

 

[Waterlogged05]

Oh yea I think I payed 500-600 for that board w custom spray and pinline and accessories ...that would be 800plus now without fins , etc

That was right when they started the thermovents, the batch before that all bubbled up and my friends swore off epoxy for a decade

 

[racer1]

They get about this yellow:

TOMO HYDROSHORT XTR. - sporting goods - by owner - sale

Selling my Tomo Hydroshort XTR. Very good condition. Never ding or repaired. Asking $595.00 Lost Mayhem Tokoro DHD firewire Pyzel Slater Tomo Al Merrick channel island

honolulu.craigslist.org

 

[Muscles]

Damn. Those do get yellow.

I had a XTR Psycho Killer that didn't have color. I sold it when it was still pretty much new because I just didn't like the board. Good thing I got color on my ghost.

 

[oeste858]

Yeah, Yellows in blotches too, not all over. Shame because the construction lasts a lot longer.
Color is key. My next one would def be that dank af olive green color that was posted in the Ghost thread.