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When Waves?
- Thread starter r32
- Start date
it hasn’t been flat! But haven’t had any standout surf.
This morning was super windy and shoulder high.
HUGE swell incoming with weather system to match .
This morning was super windy and shoulder high.
HUGE swell incoming with weather system to match .
S-Turns in North Carolina this morning. That's the road being overwashed and the dune breached. Not my picture. Up here there is swell in the water but we need the tide to drop here too.
Doesn't that happen every year at this spot?S-Turns in North Carolina this morning. That's the road being overwashed and the dune breached. Not my picture. Up here there is swell in the water but we need the tide to drop here too.
How dumb those people gotta be to build houses right there.
Multiple times a year and all over the island*Doesn't that happen every year at this spot?
How dumb those people gotta be to build houses right there.
Hard pass. Was actually glad I had a client thing downtown that couldn’t be missed. I would have been so torn looking at kind of rideable but clean enough to surf, in that bitter cold wind. Even this afternoon, walked down for sunset, and saw a couple of sets that would be small and fun in the summer, but in 25 degrees? Nah.
Had high hopes, outgoing tide really kicked it in the nuts. Got a few though and was not that miserable with the lighter wind and had time to kill.
Yeah I saw a few east end pics that looked WELL worth the cold, especially after this demonic flat spell. LB was pretty small, and not a soul in the water in sight, which really tells you something. Everyone and their mother is completely wave starved here in town, if it was decent there would have been takers (including myself)
My neighbor surfed Long Beach today
but he doesn’t really need anything bigger than ankle biters to paddle out
Yeah the wind was offshore, I’m sure a log would have been rideable at certain spots. But I sure as sh!t am not suiting up for 22 degree air and a bite of wind chill for a knee high longboard session. Chest to head high and clean and punchy? All over it.
I will say though that if the waves were really fun today, that blazing sunlight would have felt nice on the face and black wetsuit, despite the near arctic temps. nice to see some sun after a gloomy weekend
I will say though that if the waves were really fun today, that blazing sunlight would have felt nice on the face and black wetsuit, despite the near arctic temps. nice to see some sun after a gloomy weekend
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We were up there from 11-4. Tides ruined it......actually never let it get good. When my 16 year old is frustrated with the gutless mushburgers I know its not worth paddling out. Even at the bottom of the tide it was too fat.
I should send you my video driving through there on the monster nor-easter three weeks after Hurricane Sandy. We were one of only 20 4WD vehicles they let through after waiting for two hours. The entire road was gone and there were about 8 more houses than stand there today. The road remained closed for the next full week. My son and I were some of the only outsiders on Hatteras Island that Thanksgiving week. We were actually very lucky to be able to leave at the end of the week as it was only open to 4WD for 2 hours at the bottom of the tide. We were also in the first group of vehicles to leave.Doesn't that happen every year at this spot?
How dumb those people gotta be to build houses right there.
Here is what was waiting on the other side at the Lighthouse that Thanksgiving week. This shot is Black Friday. That was the day at 42 years old with three kids I realized I needed to dial it back a bit. Spent two hours battling a river current looking over backside ledges that looked like Tahiti as a handful of local pros used jetskis to get the rides of their lives. Finally caught 2 rides.......one decent one and got right back out the back. The second forced to straiten out. Went in and for the only time in my life wanted to kiss the sand. Right after I got back to the lighthouse groin one of the locals came in with a badly broken leg just hanging by the flesh. Took this shot with a point and shoot after I got changed. Lusk got spreads in Surfer and Surfer's Journal from that session.
Cell phone shot from before paddling out. Barley or Fisher Heaverly on the ski.
Map link to that location:
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