Lyle from Hawaii? Big dude, BJJ guy, beard, big smile? Builds sick guns? I think he is Dick brewers like, nephew or son or something?
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The Official OBSF Support Group
- Thread starter bluengreen
- Start date
They have an insane amount of nose flip. Put them down next to my 8'2 CI pink gun and they have at least a half-inch extra tail rocker and probably 2" - 3" extra nose rocker. The flip is most exaggerated on the ends but there's more curve through the middle of the boards as well. The noses are beak at all... they're very foiled out and refined... especially the 8'4. The 9'0 is a little bit more blocky in the middle... he clearly shaped a bit of extra foam into it. I'm regular footed which means I'm backhand going left. OB when there's any size is basically a left. Wanted some guns that were long, narrow, and foiled to make it easier to pull in.
Doesn't stop me from going right 90% of the time.
It was sheet glass and inviting yesterday afternoon. It looked smallish but VERY fun. I just stopped to meet the fam for a few minutes before I had to go to a meeting, but it was a pretty picturesque fall afternoon.
Today, less so.
Today, less so.
Today waited for the sheet glass with incoming swell.
Burgers to closeouts crossed up on-shore breeze junky conditions w/ step ladder drops.
All-in-all, it sucked.
Burgers to closeouts crossed up on-shore breeze junky conditions w/ step ladder drops.
All-in-all, it sucked.
And looks like onshores will ruin the party tomorrow. I'm mostly a weekend warrior this year, so I'll still be out.
I can't believe it, tbh.
two weeks and change ago I was fully in Over It mode. I had barely surfed all summer, it was still dreary onshore and still such heavy fog that it was raining off the eucalyptus trees at my place. Still, I was like, the season is coming, I need to get in paddle shape. So for four or five days in a row I surf sunset session, middle of the beach on my chunky grovel board, in terrible weak ass onshore waves. Getting out that last day I finally felt grateful, I was getting in rhythm, felt good to be paddling around, realizing that I missed being in the water.
Later that night I'm trying to do a little more cardio on my road bike, riding around chasing those Cruise self driving cars in the richmond (I still can't believe that sh!t), trying to figure out if they're all following one big loop or if they're doing individual smaller routes, when bam, I hit a curb/center island thing while absent-mindedly looking the wrong way. Low speed but I stuck my arm straight out as I fell and fractured my elbow and wrist. Relatively minor, could'a been worse, but...
How is it not beautiful right now? I feel like the karma/surf gods should be punishing me, and rewarding you all, with plenty of beautiful crisp sunny even if smaller fall days by now. There should be lots of the good longboarding season, with at least some solid clean days. It's fucked up!
two weeks and change ago I was fully in Over It mode. I had barely surfed all summer, it was still dreary onshore and still such heavy fog that it was raining off the eucalyptus trees at my place. Still, I was like, the season is coming, I need to get in paddle shape. So for four or five days in a row I surf sunset session, middle of the beach on my chunky grovel board, in terrible weak ass onshore waves. Getting out that last day I finally felt grateful, I was getting in rhythm, felt good to be paddling around, realizing that I missed being in the water.
Later that night I'm trying to do a little more cardio on my road bike, riding around chasing those Cruise self driving cars in the richmond (I still can't believe that sh!t), trying to figure out if they're all following one big loop or if they're doing individual smaller routes, when bam, I hit a curb/center island thing while absent-mindedly looking the wrong way. Low speed but I stuck my arm straight out as I fell and fractured my elbow and wrist. Relatively minor, could'a been worse, but...
How is it not beautiful right now? I feel like the karma/surf gods should be punishing me, and rewarding you all, with plenty of beautiful crisp sunny even if smaller fall days by now. There should be lots of the good longboarding season, with at least some solid clean days. It's fucked up!
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Sorry to see this. I had the exact same injury early pandemic (bike fall/arm extension and fractured radial head). For me, it took a really long time for pain to go away during duck dives (over a year).
The recovery process of trying to force extension is pretty brutal too. I found hanging the heal strap of a swim fin off my semi-extended arm for long periods of time to be a pretty good approach for pushing it.
Sorry to hear about your injury, Tarab.
OB rejected me today. Gave it a good 30 minutes of trying to duck dive relentless whitewaters and then taking several large on the head. Got dragged two blocks north and almost made it to the outside when a set reared up and broke 10 yards in front of me. Was really gassed for that hold down, panic swam to the surface and decided to belly in.
Surfline was calling 6.5 @14 seconds 6-10 feet. I guess they are back to using Island scale.
OB rejected me today. Gave it a good 30 minutes of trying to duck dive relentless whitewaters and then taking several large on the head. Got dragged two blocks north and almost made it to the outside when a set reared up and broke 10 yards in front of me. Was really gassed for that hold down, panic swam to the surface and decided to belly in.
Surfline was calling 6.5 @14 seconds 6-10 feet. I guess they are back to using Island scale.
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they've been struggling to predict the rain and wind forecasts as well. they kept calling like day after day of rain, like half inch per day, but then it's barely anything or even sunny. past two days were predicted to be 10-20mph south winds and it was basically windless. not sure what's up. all these little systems are hard to predict I guess.
a couple buoys north pinged 13-15@15+ a few times mid morning. luckily i felt a bit of sniffle coming on so i had to take hard pass for prudence sake
Sorry to hear about the arm Tarab_ish.
I trip out on the Self Drivers too. They park in front of my house every day to take a break. So weird.
And YES!
Surfline called it 4-8 when it was 2-4 last week, then 6-10 when it was looking really solid over the weekend.
I was on Halloween with the kids duty and did not surf.
I trip out on the Self Drivers too. They park in front of my house every day to take a break. So weird.
And YES!
Surfline called it 4-8 when it was 2-4 last week, then 6-10 when it was looking really solid over the weekend.
I was on Halloween with the kids duty and did not surf.
1 Got denied Saturday morning. I blame lack of fitness and poor choice of where I paddled out.
2 The broken elbow thing.....my two broken elbows from being doored have this bit of advice: wait a week or two for initial swelling to go down, heat up the elbow in warm to hot water then slowly try to extend the joint and when it starts hurting, hold then slowly back off, rest a moment, then go again to at least same point, do for 1/2 hr then ice it, repeat the next day. Keep it up for as long as it takes till you can fully extend it. When you start to use the elbow as you would normally want to, do yourself a favor and warm up the muscles/joint before full exertion.
2 The broken elbow thing.....my two broken elbows from being doored have this bit of advice: wait a week or two for initial swelling to go down, heat up the elbow in warm to hot water then slowly try to extend the joint and when it starts hurting, hold then slowly back off, rest a moment, then go again to at least same point, do for 1/2 hr then ice it, repeat the next day. Keep it up for as long as it takes till you can fully extend it. When you start to use the elbow as you would normally want to, do yourself a favor and warm up the muscles/joint before full exertion.
To me it seems like surfline has gotten way more accurate over the last year for OB. Years past I thought that Magicseaweed and stormsurf was spot on and surflie routinely overestimated..by a fair amount. Over the last few months surfline is much more inline. Mind you this is for head high and under which is when I look to go out. How you guys charge in double overhead out there is beyond me.
I'm also waiting for my glassy under head high fall day. Looking like I may wait for a while.
I'm also waiting for my glassy under head high fall day. Looking like I may wait for a while.
Feels like it's always 4-6, 6-10, 10-3xOH. Rinse and repeat
Thanks for the tip Doof. "pee pee" mentioned to me that swelling continued to be a problem for him as he started being able to use it more, I'll try that as happens. And god, getting doored is a nightmare, that sucks.
And bob yeah, when i'm walking around and see them I feel like turning to random people in the street like "you see this sh!t!?!?" I can't believe everyone else is so chill about it. Tbh, when I'm killed by a car it is 100% going to be a tesla, they're the worst drivers by far.
And bob yeah, when i'm walking around and see them I feel like turning to random people in the street like "you see this sh!t!?!?" I can't believe everyone else is so chill about it. Tbh, when I'm killed by a car it is 100% going to be a tesla, they're the worst drivers by far.
Doesn't help that all the Teslas in my neighborhood are driven by private school teens or their parents
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