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this is the worst situation. last time i got hit was because I was paddling to the foam and the guy taking off barely gets to his feet on a chest high wave then falls and shoots his board directly at me. If he was competent I would've been fine and been completely out of the way. But he is a kook and I paid for it. That happens a ton at crowded socal spots where I don't trust 85% of the people in the lineup to even make the drop.What if you blow a take off, fall and hit me?
Had this crap happen to me many moons ago at C-Street. I'm paddling out and this knuckle head blows his take off and runs right over me gashing the back of my head with his fin. Ended up with 16 stitches.this is the worst situation. last time i got hit was because I was paddling to the foam and the guy taking off barely gets to his feet on a chest high wave then falls and shoots his board directly at me. If he was competent I would've been fine and been completely out of the way. But he is a kook and I paid for it. That happens a ton at crowded socal spots where I don't trust 85% of the people in the lineup to even make the drop.
Weird as sh!t, huh? Runs a guy over, maiming him, then dies. Crazy. Improbable to say the least.So the surfer who was up and riding is the surfer who passed, and now there is a desire to hear it from the other side of the story, and that person we know took a head shot and needed hospital treatment?
Just stick close, I can use the force to protect and ensure you get wavesI can’t have fun when that stuff is going on
It’s anxiety inducing
Keeps me out way too often
honestly these days i dont trust anyone either. especially people paddling in front of me or near me when caught inside. Had a head high wave break 10 feet of me and a few people right in front of me a couple weeks ago. Thing came out of nowhere and as I saw what was about to happen - I yelled at the top of my lungs - DONT BAIL! The other 3 guys bailed. I duckdived as deep as i could and came up unscathed - the other guys apologizing profusely. I shook my head and gave the stinkyest stink eyes Ive ever given and paddled away to another peak.this is the worst situation. last time i got hit was because I was paddling to the foam and the guy taking off barely gets to his feet on a chest high wave then falls and shoots his board directly at me. If he was competent I would've been fine and been completely out of the way. But he is a kook and I paid for it. That happens a ton at crowded socal spots where I don't trust 85% of the people in the lineup to even make the drop.
I have had people bail right in front of me way too many times and I learned to shift to the side 5-10 feet or so before duckdiving in that situation. Even if it isn't great for forward momentum, it does prevent getting a board to the head.honestly these days i dont trust anyone either. especially people paddling in front of me or near me when caught inside. Had a head high wave break 10 feet of me and a few people right in front of me a couple weeks ago. Thing came out of nowhere and as I saw what was about to happen - I yelled at the top of my lungs - DONT BAIL! The other 3 guys bailed. I duckdived as deep as i could and came up unscathed - the other guys apologizing profusely. I shook my head and gave the stinkyest stink eyes Ive ever given and paddled away to another peak.
yea for sure. In this situation it popped out of nowhere - i never try to paddle in back of someon if I can avoid it.I have had people bail right in front of me way too many times and I learned to shift to the side 5-10 feet or so before duckdiving in that situation. Even if it isn't great for forward momentum, it does prevent getting a board to the head.
It's one thing if you duckdive and the wave just manhandles you, ripping the board out of your hands, but to ditch as a goto? And in head high waves for crying out loud? Shameful.
The odds seem to go up that they ditch and it's usually a flailing ditch where the board goes flying in the air.yea for sure. In this situation it popped out of nowhere - i never try to paddle in back of someon if I can avoid it.
Take your lickings like a man, don't blow somebody's wave because you're a pussyOne thing I've noticed from watching video of surfing in Hawaii - if you're paddling out and in the
cross hairs at a heavy spot, you'd better duck dive deeeep because the dude coming down the line isn't
going to, and can't change his line to accommodate the paddler!
You're going to get run over and sent in or worse if you cause the rider to bail.
I think more people trust leash then you would like to believe One look at design forum threads and you would be suprisedThe odds seem to go up that they ditch and it's usually a flailing ditch where the board goes flying in the air.
What is funny is when you're just off to side of them, you duckdive cleanly while watching the ditcher being carried backwards right past you. You realize you made the right call in not being behind them while also laughing that their ditch move only cost them time, distance, and energy.
I also think they have an awful lot of trust in that leash.
It doesn't matter where the emphasis is. If you run over someone you can kill them. If you're up and riding you have the option to miss people. Being caught inside happens to everyone. I don't know that anyone (aside from adult learners) intentionally tries to get in the way or avoid a duck dive but eventually it's going to happen. At that point it's the riders responsibly not to run you down.Where are you located? Places with few waves and lots of surfers tend to place more responsibility on paddlers to get out of the way to avoid waves being wasted. Especially in waves that are particularly good/rare/fickle/valuable. It's less true at beginner/longboard waves.
Not to mention the spring suit with booties and the giant log.not meaning any disrespect to the dead. maybe its the rolled shouldes the sunken chest or the baby bump. but guys got the adult learner kook vibe going
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