Surfer dies at Rincon following collision with another surfer...

Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
26,709
19,656
113
Jacksonville Beach
So the surfer who was up and riding is the surfer who passed, and now there is a desire to hear it from the other side of the story, and that person we know took a head shot and needed hospital treatment?
 

hugh shackman

OTF status
Mar 3, 2017
309
244
43
What if you blow a take off, fall and hit me?
this is the worst situation. last time i got hit was because I was paddling to the foam and the guy taking off barely gets to his feet on a chest high wave then falls and shoots his board directly at me. If he was competent I would've been fine and been completely out of the way. But he is a kook and I paid for it. That happens a ton at crowded socal spots where I don't trust 85% of the people in the lineup to even make the drop.
 

SteveT

Phil Edwards status
Apr 11, 2005
5,913
2,548
113
this is the worst situation. last time i got hit was because I was paddling to the foam and the guy taking off barely gets to his feet on a chest high wave then falls and shoots his board directly at me. If he was competent I would've been fine and been completely out of the way. But he is a kook and I paid for it. That happens a ton at crowded socal spots where I don't trust 85% of the people in the lineup to even make the drop.
Had this crap happen to me many moons ago at C-Street. I'm paddling out and this knuckle head blows his take off and runs right over me gashing the back of my head with his fin. Ended up with 16 stitches.
I had to lie to my mom what happened since I had ditched school, told her I got it from hitting a volleyball pole at school
There's always been dummies in the water.
 

kidfury

Duke status
Oct 14, 2017
25,050
10,789
113
So the surfer who was up and riding is the surfer who passed, and now there is a desire to hear it from the other side of the story, and that person we know took a head shot and needed hospital treatment?
Weird as sh!t, huh? Runs a guy over, maiming him, then dies. Crazy. Improbable to say the least.
 

CutnSnip

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2018
5,870
6,207
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
this is the worst situation. last time i got hit was because I was paddling to the foam and the guy taking off barely gets to his feet on a chest high wave then falls and shoots his board directly at me. If he was competent I would've been fine and been completely out of the way. But he is a kook and I paid for it. That happens a ton at crowded socal spots where I don't trust 85% of the people in the lineup to even make the drop.
honestly these days i dont trust anyone either. especially people paddling in front of me or near me when caught inside. Had a head high wave break 10 feet of me and a few people right in front of me a couple weeks ago. Thing came out of nowhere and as I saw what was about to happen - I yelled at the top of my lungs - DONT BAIL! The other 3 guys bailed. I duckdived as deep as i could and came up unscathed - the other guys apologizing profusely. I shook my head and gave the stinkyest stink eyes Ive ever given and paddled away to another peak.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,029
21,459
113
The Bar
honestly these days i dont trust anyone either. especially people paddling in front of me or near me when caught inside. Had a head high wave break 10 feet of me and a few people right in front of me a couple weeks ago. Thing came out of nowhere and as I saw what was about to happen - I yelled at the top of my lungs - DONT BAIL! The other 3 guys bailed. I duckdived as deep as i could and came up unscathed - the other guys apologizing profusely. I shook my head and gave the stinkyest stink eyes Ive ever given and paddled away to another peak.
I have had people bail right in front of me way too many times and I learned to shift to the side 5-10 feet or so before duckdiving in that situation. Even if it isn't great for forward momentum, it does prevent getting a board to the head.

It's one thing if you duckdive and the wave just manhandles you, ripping the board out of your hands, but to ditch as a goto? And in head high waves for crying out loud? Shameful.
 

CutnSnip

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2018
5,870
6,207
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
I have had people bail right in front of me way too many times and I learned to shift to the side 5-10 feet or so before duckdiving in that situation. Even if it isn't great for forward momentum, it does prevent getting a board to the head.

It's one thing if you duckdive and the wave just manhandles you, ripping the board out of your hands, but to ditch as a goto? And in head high waves for crying out loud? Shameful.
yea for sure. In this situation it popped out of nowhere - i never try to paddle in back of someon if I can avoid it.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,029
21,459
113
The Bar
yea for sure. In this situation it popped out of nowhere - i never try to paddle in back of someon if I can avoid it.
The odds seem to go up that they ditch and it's usually a flailing ditch where the board goes flying in the air.

What is funny is when you're just off to side of them, you duckdive cleanly while watching the ditcher being carried backwards right past you. You realize you made the right call in not being behind them while also laughing that their ditch move only cost them time, distance, and energy.

I also think they have an awful lot of trust in that leash. :roflmao:
 
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tbuc

Legend (inyourownmind)
Jun 12, 2006
533
50
28
One thing I've noticed from watching video of surfing in Hawaii - if you're paddling out and in the
cross hairs at a heavy spot, you'd better duck dive deeeep because the dude coming down the line isn't
going to, and can't change his line to accommodate the paddler!

You're going to get run over and sent in or worse if you cause the rider to bail.
 
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youcantbeserious

Billy Hamilton status
Oct 29, 2020
1,530
4,645
113
Location location
One thing I've noticed from watching video of surfing in Hawaii - if you're paddling out and in the
cross hairs at a heavy spot, you'd better duck dive deeeep because the dude coming down the line isn't
going to, and can't change his line to accommodate the paddler!

You're going to get run over and sent in or worse if you cause the rider to bail.
Take your lickings like a man, don't blow somebody's wave because you're a pussy
 

rowjimmytour

Tom Curren status
Feb 7, 2009
11,534
5,831
113
54
The odds seem to go up that they ditch and it's usually a flailing ditch where the board goes flying in the air.

What is funny is when you're just off to side of them, you duckdive cleanly while watching the ditcher being carried backwards right past you. You realize you made the right call in not being behind them while also laughing that their ditch move only cost them time, distance, and energy.

I also think they have an awful lot of trust in that leash. :roflmao:
I think more people trust leash then you would like to believe:drowning: One look at design forum threads and you would be suprised:eek:
 
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VonMeister

Duke status
Apr 26, 2013
20,251
6,977
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JOE BIDENS RAPE FINGER
Where are you located? Places with few waves and lots of surfers tend to place more responsibility on paddlers to get out of the way to avoid waves being wasted. Especially in waves that are particularly good/rare/fickle/valuable. It's less true at beginner/longboard waves.
It doesn't matter where the emphasis is. If you run over someone you can kill them. If you're up and riding you have the option to miss people. Being caught inside happens to everyone. I don't know that anyone (aside from adult learners) intentionally tries to get in the way or avoid a duck dive but eventually it's going to happen. At that point it's the riders responsibly not to run you down.

At California point breaks it's not even worth it anymore. There are people bobbing around inside right underneath you when your dropping in. Sending them in isn't going to help because there's dozens of them without the skill or knowledge to make an effort.....but you're not allowed to kill them.
 
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Witchipoo

Michael Peterson status
Jun 16, 2010
2,401
403
83
East of Malibu
It's gotten so I'll only go out on a crappy, marginally-rideable day because I can't enjoy myself if there are people fighting over every scrap and getting in the way because they simply don't know any better. It's not fun, and when I find myself going home in a worse mood than I woke up with, that's when I question the whole point of the thing. Also, it's f*cking terrifying and stressful and makes me want to hit things. Kind of the opposite of pleasurable.

Then I have a day like last week, when the waves were so scarce everybody went home and I sat by myself for an hour. There were dolphins and a seal and a little leopard shark, and some birds, and utter, utter silence. And it didn't matter that there was only one rideable wave every fifteen minutes, because there was no one there to backpaddle me or drop in or just sit in my path like lobotomized cattle. I went home smiling for a change.

I still really, really dig the ocean. Humans, not so much.