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Sunset Guns
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
It's weird how fixated you become about some things.
If you want to go that route, 6 foot face is head high. Overhead is ~8 foot face, making DOH about 15 foot face.
Just make it easy on yourself and divide it in half like the rest of the coastal surfing world.
Besides, what do you call it when a wave approaches head high but then jacks to double (or more) that height as it breaks?
Before Surfline, it was always 3 foot is HH and 6 foot is DOH, etc. and I'm not from Hawaii. If I told my friends it was 3 foot, they know what I'm talking about and that it wasn't waist high.
Greg must be busy making surfboards, so I will post this.
Greg must be busy making surfboards, so I will post this.
It’s weird how people will look at something that is clearly 12 feet high and call it 6 feet.
So Duff.....how many times did you paddle out at 12-15 ft Rincon or Sandspit??
Clearly? People at my high school (dos pueblos) 805 would call a 6' set 10' all the time but a least we knew how good it was depending on who told you. I still see this all the time all ages not sure if they have special rose color sunglasses or smoke something pre surf.
I think it was Dick Metz who shared the origin story of the Hawaiian Wave Height Scale. He said it comes from Makaha circa the late 1950's / early 1960's.
The gist of the story goes that whenever anyone would ask how big the waves were, you were to half the size so as not to attract a crowd.
I'm sure it worked for a bit, but then everyone caught on at some point. Then eventually, it just became the way people described wave height.
I respect it. True surfer spirit in trying to protect the sanctity of a spot.
The gist of the story goes that whenever anyone would ask how big the waves were, you were to half the size so as not to attract a crowd.
I'm sure it worked for a bit, but then everyone caught on at some point. Then eventually, it just became the way people described wave height.
I respect it. True surfer spirit in trying to protect the sanctity of a spot.
I use the Hawaiian scale when describing my pepis (man parts)
4-6 feet Like in March, when it's a bit less crowded. Decreasing swell. Never on an increasing swell. Learned my lesson, many times. Deep water break pushes you a long way down.....Keep head on a swivel for the west bowl which always seems to catch me. I will never be comfortable out there, unless it's like two feet, and that's not really Sunset. And plenty don't consider 4-6 real Sunset either. Haha.
If someone on or coming to oahu is looking for a big boy gun for sunset
I'm considering unloading this beast as my days in the water are pretty much gone now
Bought it in hanalei when I left the green one on the wall of this condo for the condo owner
only used it once when I was there
pretty much brand new
It's a Terry Chung "fatgirl" design similar to the green one only bigger
7'10" by 20" by 3.75"
I also have this beast I got from Steve Holmes
It's 10'6" by 24" by 3.5" and well over 20lbs with its glassing schedule
was primarily used in outside waikiki
got it as my re-learning to paddle again board
still pretty clean
I'm considering unloading this beast as my days in the water are pretty much gone now
Bought it in hanalei when I left the green one on the wall of this condo for the condo owner
only used it once when I was there
pretty much brand new
It's a Terry Chung "fatgirl" design similar to the green one only bigger
7'10" by 20" by 3.75"
I also have this beast I got from Steve Holmes
It's 10'6" by 24" by 3.5" and well over 20lbs with its glassing schedule
was primarily used in outside waikiki
got it as my re-learning to paddle again board
still pretty clean
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I've felt up that green Terry Chung on a few occasions.
Wanted nothing to do with the waves it was made for, but it was a beautiful board nonetheless.
I had this weird 5 inch thick 12 ft board and ate it many times cause the sheer size and the rails getting stuck lol
