So how did your boards go with this last run of swell?

kidfury

Duke status
Oct 14, 2017
25,043
10,786
113
rode a 6'2", 6'8", 7'2" throughout the swells. Would have preferred a narrower tail on the 7'2", but they all went great. Great swell angle
 
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ULUSURFER

Gerry Lopez status
Jan 2, 2007
1,200
661
113
Australia
Visit site
my stretch legacy 2X4 5'10 worked great at rincon and sucked at cardiff reef, been riding my 6'6 maurice cole shiva with a quad set up and it never leaves me disappointed after a session.

I realized this swell i need a higher volume standard shortboard or a fun gun style board to beat the crowds
 

Yewstreet

Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 8, 2019
435
802
93
7'0 ..Lost retrogun. Really good introduction to a significant amount of foam. Paddles well and I'm able to sink it quite easy. pretty responsive to turns as long as you have your back foot far enough back.

Kind of excited to surf a fish tomorrow as a bit of a change up
 

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,693
18,202
113
Petak Island
Increase strength. It’s your bodies natural and only defense against injury. Always warm up before activity. A light jog before surfing will do wonders and you’ll surf better.
Light jog is normally what I do.

Then warm up wave, nice and easy.

I never have a problem feeling limber in the water.

Problem with strength training is it's hard to find someone who knows what they're doing.
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,169
28,771
113
36

I run, but not sure how kind trail runs are on the body. I don't see any old trail runners.

Is yoga even legal right now?
Trail ‘running‘ for movement, not for fitness (ie: 1 or 2 days a week).

As for “yoga”. Just make yourself a flowing stretch routine and that should keep you from getting arrested.

Don’t listen to VM ‘stretching does nothing’ bullshit.

Stretching (btw, I don’t do static stretches) increases flexibility which translate to greater range of motion which translates to your leg going much much farther “out of place” before something snaps.

And 36?

Dude. You’re haven’t even peaked yet.

50 year old - out!
 

hotCheetos

OTF status
Mar 28, 2020
294
358
63
What'd you do with all your bigger boards?
I cleared out most of my quiver and my biggest board currently is a 6'3 stock Quiver killer, but I have a 6'3 custom ghost on the way. (I'm 6'0) I still got a couple but there was a lotta water moving with the high tides, wonky with the direction, I probably would have felt more comfortable on a beefier 6'6 plus round pin or something. Of course if I order one I won't see another swell like that for another 5 years. The Ghost should work better though
 
May 20, 2020
48
16
8
Anyone take out their Campbell bros AO in this last run of swell? Wondering how it goes in some size
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,169
28,771
113
Anyone take out their Campbell bros AO in this last run of swell? Wondering how it goes in some size
I took mine (5’10 x 20 1/8 x 2 5/8) out at some pretty solid point surf.

Paddling around and catching waves it felt too small. Riding waves it felt a bit small and on bigger sets it worked fine but wasn’t ideal. When I switched to my 6’8 SP12 quad I felt much more confident. That board wasn’t needed but it was nice.

My Fever would have been good too but it broke.

Awaiting a 6’4 round pin AO. I think that board would have been the t!ts on this last run of swell.
 

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,976
11,473
113
San Diego
I realized this swell i need a higher volume standard shortboard or a fun gun style board to beat the crowds
one thing that stood out to me was that while the crowds did slim out a bit as the swell turned on, it was still way more heads jockeying for waves than previous years.

I can handle my own in the first hour or so of a session but staying out hours longer and dealing with fresh heads paddling out and hassling, I really came to appreciate the extra foam.
 

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
7,801
12,437
113
in da hood next to paradise
Light jog is normally what I do.

Then warm up wave, nice and easy.

I never have a problem feeling limber in the water.

Problem with strength training is it's hard to find someone who knows what they're doing.
valens strength in sd. quit fking around. i can lift 2 of u off the ground for reps. 1.5 yrs ago i couldn’t even pick up 95 lbs without tweaking my back
 
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