So how did your boards go with this last run of swell?

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,976
11,474
113
San Diego
7'3 Stu Kenson minigun (born Spring 2019) has still not touched water due to lack of surf, then COVID-19, work, and now injury, so fvckin terrible.

It's just sitting in the closet, waxed, ready. WTF. so sad.
that’s fugging rough.

I guess that explains the ridiculousness of the stars aligning for back to back HH+ sunny day weekends, over a 3day holiday weekend no less.

thank you for your service.
 

CutnSnip

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2018
5,870
6,207
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
Missed out on most of the real good days the last 2 weeks but my boards have been feeling really dialed. When I go to replace my GX and Flare - I will thin em out a little bit. Both feeling a little too floatey in good waves. Ordered them both at 2 & 1/2 thick when i was about 40pounds heavier. Will refer to Tim as far as just how much thinner I need to go but not expecting it to be drastic. Otherwise will keep everything the same and maybe order a 6'2 GX roundtail for when its not quite there for my step up GX i have now (6'4)
 

waxfoot

Michael Peterson status
Apr 21, 2018
2,096
4,049
113
7'3 Stu Kenson minigun (born Spring 2019) has still not touched water due to lack of surf, then COVID-19, work, and now injury, so fvckin terrible.

It's just sitting in the closet, waxed, ready. WTF. so sad.
Harsh :(
What did you do to yourself?
 

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,693
18,202
113
Petak Island
Harsh :(
What did you do to yourself?
Tweaked leading hip, 3rd time in the past year, occured whil surfing but no obvious cause. PT cannot figure out the exact reason this is happening, speculation is it's due to tight hamstings and hip flexors maybe a bit of IT band too.

Felt OK to surf yesterday so I surfed (and surfed well:cool:) then paddling back out sudden pulling across the top of my shoulder (area where the top of the trapezius goes from shoulder to neck.) No idea why. Fckin painful in that area to raise my arm up. Not the first time it's happened. I never stretch, probably the reason why.
 
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waxfoot

Michael Peterson status
Apr 21, 2018
2,096
4,049
113
Tweaked leading hip, 3rd time in the past year, occured whil surfing but no obvious cause. PT cannot figure out the exact reason this is happening, speculation is it's due to tight hamstings and hip flexors maybe a bit of IT band too.

Felt OK to surf yesterday so I surfed (and surfed well:cool:) then paddling back out sudden pulling across the top of my shoulder (area where the top of the trapezius goes from shoulder to neck.) No idea why. Fckin painful in that area to raise my arm up. Not the first time it's happened. I never stretch, probably the reason why.
Fark, that sucks hard. I know this is going to sound like a stock response to the above, but doing Ashtanga Yoga sounds like the exact thing you need.
 

waxfoot

Michael Peterson status
Apr 21, 2018
2,096
4,049
113
I really have no fvcking idea how to take care of my body as I age.
Tight hammies, glutes, hips etc are all part of the kinetic chain that is nearly guaranteed to be made better by doing Yoga. My limited experience with it so far is that Ashtanga is the one that would benefit surfers the most. From the clips I've seen of the arc method by Taylor Knox, it borrows heavily from it.

Unfortunately for me, it seems my issues are a little bit more deep rooted, as I have had MRI scans that have turned up multiple injuries that sometimes stop me from surfing (annular tear in my back, compression in my neck that refers pain down my shoulder, left hip and sciatica ). The Yoga does alleviate the pain dramatically, but it's unfortunately not a "cure" for me.

"Only" 41, but I'm suffering from the consequences of having more ambition than talent in both surfing and riding downhill bikes :p
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,169
28,771
113
My Fever snapped, my AO twin felt small, my SP12 stepup was fucking magic and I sold my Padillac in less than an hour.

Got a new Fever in same dims, put a tail patch on this one. Haven’t ridden it yet.

I don’t know if anyone noticed but it was a bit breezy in Ventura today:roflmao::roflmao:
 

Muscles

Michael Peterson status
Jun 1, 2013
2,599
3,607
113
California/Hawaii
6'4 Fever - Still continues to impress me. I'll go a few weeks of not surfing it and then jump on it and fall in love again.

6'0 Neckbeard 2 - Super fast but gets squirrelly in juice. Like the board

7'0 FCD RS3 - Made me realize how much of a difference a real step up provides. No more late drops and getting blasted because I'm in DOH surf on a 6'4.

6'6 FCD Octo Quad - Fun board. First quad squash tail I've owned.
 

Muscles

Michael Peterson status
Jun 1, 2013
2,599
3,607
113
California/Hawaii
@racer1 XPS builds feel really good. No complaints. The build quality is solid and they don't feel drastically different from PU. The 6'6 took some getting used to because it feels stiff since it is glassed 4x4x4 on the top and 4x4 on the bottom. Will definitely keep both FCD boards.
 
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kane

Michael Peterson status
Sep 30, 2003
3,032
198
63
.
6'2" flatline model got me feeling like a kid again. Paddles in to waves easily and goes top to bottom. Still need to practice to get to where I was before I left for Texas 5 years ago.
 
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PRCD

Tom Curren status
Feb 25, 2020
12,811
8,831
113
Tweaked leading hip, 3rd time in the past year, occured whil surfing but no obvious cause. PT cannot figure out the exact reason this is happening, speculation is it's due to tight hamstings and hip flexors maybe a bit of IT band too.
Most of them have an archaic understanding of pain. The US is pretty far behind in teaching modern pain science to health care providers. Your hip is probably fine.
Felt OK to surf yesterday so I surfed (and surfed well:cool:) then paddling back out sudden pulling across the top of my shoulder (area where the top of the trapezius goes from shoulder to neck.) No idea why. Fckin painful in that area to raise my arm up. Not the first time it's happened. I never stretch, probably the reason why.
You probably just need a 10-minute mobility routine (this kind of pricey but works) and maybe drink more water.

Ask VonMeister.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,786
23,644
113
Tower 13
Started thinking about hipster step ups after watching Tudor at Blacks during this last run. But then realized that probably wouldn't work for me as a mere mortal and that I should stick to normal boards
reminds me when I see someone surf a classic longboard like buttter and any time I try I'm like damn this is a piece of crap and I'm a kook
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,024
17,489
113
San Diego, CA
Me too. Those handful of days a year, I magically transform into Mr. Cross-step when I get on a anything >7ft. It is.. whatever the opposite of “graceful” is. But hey, it gets me in the water when the waves drop below waist high and keeps me entertained.
 
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Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,169
28,771
113
Most of them have an archaic understanding of pain. The US is pretty far behind in teaching modern pain science to health care providers. Your hip is probably fine.

You probably just need a 10-minute mobility routine (this kind of pricey but works) and maybe drink more water.

Ask VonMeister.
That pain video was 5 minutes of nothing and anyone who spends $65 for a ‘mobility’ dvd is a moron.
 

VonMeister

Duke status
Apr 26, 2013
20,251
6,977
113
JOE BIDENS RAPE FINGER
Tweaked leading hip, 3rd time in the past year, occured whil surfing but no obvious cause. PT cannot figure out the exact reason this is happening, speculation is it's due to tight hamstings and hip flexors maybe a bit of IT band too.

Felt OK to surf yesterday so I surfed (and surfed well:cool:) then paddling back out sudden pulling across the top of my shoulder (area where the top of the trapezius goes from shoulder to neck.) No idea why. Fckin painful in that area to raise my arm up. Not the first time it's happened. I never stretch, probably the reason why.
Sometimes you tweak something, it hurts, and then by some miracle you get better. Your PT can’t figure out what’s wrong because he is a dumbshit. Nothings wrong. Minor soft tissue injuries are a part of life.

Stretching does nothing. Warming up is what you want to do.