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So how did your boards go with this last run of swell?
- Thread starter SlicedFeet
- Start date
6'2 Ghost this afternoon after some solid surfs on my 6'10 Desert Storm. Felt like a stubby shorty, haha!
Bloody good board.
Bloody good board.
surfed 2 good sessions at rincon over this run, I can say its the only wave ive surfed in socal that even remotely compares to the aussie point breaks. For me its worth the crowd and hassle
This is correct. There’s only one good point around here and it’s rincon. Despite how crowded it looks it’s super easy to get waves. Really the only place worth surfing around here.
I've heard a couple aussies say that about Rincon. Ventura and Malibu have a good point too.
If those Aussies are from SE QLD, then they'd be used to a a few people in the water on the points
Taken today, the very start of a new series of swells. I've lived here nearly 5 years now and I'm yet to surf the superbannk, just can't get myself amped enough to want to go battle the hoards.
ps: Like a fuckwit, I don't have a step up at the moment, and I'm broke as ... need to figure out which is my least favourite child to sell for new addition to the quiver
I've never seen anything like that (in person) in my life. It looks like a mexican point break but on steroids.If those Aussies are from SE QLD, then they'd be used to a a few people in the water on the points
Taken today, the very start of a new series of swells. I've lived here nearly 5 years now and I'm yet to surf the superbannk, just can't get myself amped enough to want to go battle the hoards.
ps: Like a fuckwit, I don't have a step up at the moment, and I'm broke as ... need to figure out which is my least favourite child to sell for new addition to the quiver
I've never seen anything like that either. It must be some sort of windswell to produce those non-stop lines. When I used to surf the points in the Surf Coast region of Vic (Bells, Winki etc) they always came in the usual sets of half a dozen, which is just as well because paddling out was hard enough at size.
The windswell I am used to doesn't look anything like that. I am just a few days back home from a 1 week camping trip at the Surf Coast and the best waves I had was windswell and I happened to take a pic - just me and 2 kiteboarders out that evening. A lot more fun than it looks and not hard to surf - head height, but gentle windswell and my Chilli grom plus HP went great. I decided to keep my treasured local custom HP shorty on ice back home.
waxfoot, aren't you up in the Sunny Coast near Noosa and what is the surf like up there, or have I got it wrong?If those Aussies are from SE QLD, then they'd be used to a a few people in the water on the points
Taken today, the very start of a new series of swells. I've lived here nearly 5 years now and I'm yet to surf the superbannk, just can't get myself amped enough to want to go battle the hoards.
.. .
Yeap.
Drove to Tewantin this morning to see a specialist for my oldman back and since I booked half day off sick, I drove to Noosa after my appointment. I sh!t you not, I could not find a parking. All my little hidey holes and secret squirrel spots, everything, chocknblock full. It was firing too, looked about 4ft down the lower end of the point towards the main beach on the drive, and the sand looked as good as it gets....but I ended up just putting my tail between my legs and coming home.
I hope you get your back sorted waxfoot, that's more important than finding the right step up. My back is good now, touch wood not given me trouble for years. I think you lost the will to go through the entire epic of the "10 myths about backpain" thread, my story was all sorts of things introduced under the instruction of a chiropractor - as well as regular adjustments, I was doing special low risk stretches to keep lower back supple, core strength exercise, massage, posture exercise and a whole instruction set about how to go about daily life when cleaning the abode or sitting at the puter. I still do these things. As you know there is a contingent on that thread who would say none of that is necessary - just deadlift and squat.
Thanks mate. My history with it is a long one, and i've seen everyone under the sun for it. Chiro, physio, physiologist, I do Yoga, work out, you name it. It's been a 6 year struggle with it and now finally I saw the director of neurosurgery at Mater in Brissy.
He wants to do some more tests to find out whether his diagnosis of the issue is accurate. Will see where this leads.
Purpose of my camping trip was to build myself a good wave HP shorty in the Josh Dowling workshop. JD has a rich history in the surfboard business working for many older well known labels and was one of the surfboard experts hired by the original firewire startup, but now making a successful career in the teaching profession.
Today, my late middle age body is having its scheduled rest day after 4 sessions in 2 days on the fruits of my labour. I also played with my skimboard twice and my skateboard once, so although I don't have DOMS today I think a rest is a good preventative idea.
First day head height easterly short period mixed with longer SW (where most of Vic's groundswell comes from). Steep take offs with only the peaking waves makeable - jury out on my design. Second day in the morning head height+ clean open ocean, avoided other surfers by choosing a lower quality peak to myself - jury still out. Evening session offshore breeze open ocean, head height with wave after wave - sandbank rip current combo aligned! Someone joined me and said "sorry to crash your party", its not the best peak, he said, but pointed out that unlike further down the beach there was no crowd competition and he said "I saw you get a good one"
In just one session my new board 100% evaluated - there were that many waves, all of which featured a good take off with bottom turn opportunity, flat middle bit with some strange things going on requiring pumping and a speedy chest high inside section on which I was able to fling the board off the top and pump up some good speed. Conclusion - too much rocker and rails a little too pinched
On the plus side, I made every single wave to the inside section so it must be a fairly capable board, I nailed the fin positions and board did not feel like it was going to catch rails, just a bit on the sensitive side. I got a really good edge from my resin dam and sanding this year and I could feel the performance improvement on last year where I did not take the edge far enough up the board (Rusty says 4 fingers forward of front fin leading edge in one of his instagram broadcasts and I remembered that). Unlike last year I got myself a board which I think I am going to use reasonably regularly - spent this morning tweaking the design, but update won't get built for another year.
PS rails too pinched not entirely my fault - I double checked the numbers on the file subtracting the edge control point negative number (i.e adding) from the deck control point and rail height exactly the same as the previous 2 incarnations of this design. They were a little on the pinched side though and there is room for improvement with the apex and height in the forward section so updated that.
