You just had to outdo my long 40 min sesh with 5 min more, didn’t ya, you artisanal spoon carver?
Let’s see that pad placement on the new bort, sir.
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Let’s see that pad placement on the new bort, sir.
Same time, place, surfboard and fin setup. Smaller than yesterday but glassy and plenty of punch. Some long lulls which kept me from really finding a rhythm. The water is freezing and once my feet started to feel it, things really went downhill. I did get one super nuggy one so overall it was a good session. Cheat Code felt great.
It's been a fun week, glad I ditched the wetsuit.
3 1/2 hours of laps today. Windy as fuck now
Got Con’d driving past on the way to where I was planning on going. Enough size but inconsistent and south wind came up. Was good enough to stay out for 3hrs. Got a few from the indicator through the river mouth but was choppy enough that I was just trying to stay on my board.
Stayed in my wetsuit and drove to where I had originally planned. Was offshore and barreling. Got a few on the shoulder to get my board under my feet then went on a set wave and pulled in.
Bounced my head off the bottom and filled my wetsuit with sand. Wind went more onshore there also and got weird but I managed to get another decent one. Should have went with my gut and gone there first but sometimes you make the wrong call. Still fun and tired after 4.5hrs in the water.
Stayed in my wetsuit and drove to where I had originally planned. Was offshore and barreling. Got a few on the shoulder to get my board under my feet then went on a set wave and pulled in.
Bounced my head off the bottom and filled my wetsuit with sand. Wind went more onshore there also and got weird but I managed to get another decent one. Should have went with my gut and gone there first but sometimes you make the wrong call. Still fun and tired after 4.5hrs in the water.
2 1/2 more hours this afternoon. Most accurate wind prediction ever
really fun NOC beachbreak this a.m. early but the wind turned almost immediately at 9:30 and it went to sh!t in minutes. got a few ones before the switch. super peaky, the lefts were long,racy, and holding up well enough for lots of turns...overall worthwhile morning of surfing.
Couple colds and other crap has kept me out of the water quite a bit. Damn I felt so weak this morning.
Flare treated me quite well though and the water was nice.
Flare treated me quite well though and the water was nice.
ive had maybe 5 sessions this year. kid cold season has beeen vicious for us this year.
someone in my house has been puking or pooping themselves since mid-January, fml.
when we aren’t making messes of ourselves major items break in the house and I’m on handy man duties instead of maintenance surf.
yep, just a few more years and they’ll be resilient, but for now, we don’t make plans January to June unless there is a full refund option available, lol.
Right there with ya. Sick family most of the time starting in January. Got a surprisingly epic gulf session on Friday. Mostly close outs but “heavy” for around here.
2 hour maintence session , calypte fucks hard. Going to be a great California board.
“Surfed” for the first time in nearly 3 months yesterday after a broken scaffoid (wrist). Went to a mellow reef that ended up being bigger than I expected and it was quite a shitshow for me with a combo of being completely out of shape, having no strength in that hand/arm/wrist, and dealing with a brace that made my hand slip off the board repeatedly for several complete yard sales.
Managed to stand up a couple times like a baby giraffe and felt like I’d surfed for 5 hours. Ugh.
Baby steps….
Managed to stand up a couple times like a baby giraffe and felt like I’d surfed for 5 hours. Ugh.
Baby steps….
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windy afternoon yesterday but nobody at a reef that was organized enough to grab some fun waves in the sloppy conditions, kind of like a mogul run trying to find the right lines to connect the dots and tag a section here and there, got sucked over the falls on a failed duck dive, that was a surprise.
1hour 45mins at Shitington Beach.
I think my arms are getting longer :/
And my camera is not getting any less grainy
I think my arms are getting longer :/
And my camera is not getting any less grainy