*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,053
17,546
113
San Diego, CA
Slept in and it was still crap, as you know.

Used a new board and was immediately disappointed. I'll give it another session, but I just don't think it's for me. As we discussed, and as I told @Duffy LaCoronilla , less than solid waves and a board with zero drive was incredibly disappointing. When the opportunities did present themselves in the water, the board just did not deliver for me.

Could be I'm a middling middle-aged surfer.
what boar?
 

sh3

Michael Peterson status
Dec 1, 2008
2,546
3,406
113
what boar?
Album Insanity - used it as a thruster. Used the fins I used in another thruster I love. So bummed. First Album board I've ever had. Got it from Varial just before they closed.

I've scoured the knobs and tubes of the internets and think the Insanity will probably work better as a quad. I closely watched Kerr in that Kandui video and also listened to an interview with Patt Marker saying Josh uses his as quads or twins plus trailer. So got quad fins made for the board - actual Album quads from NVS, via a certain 805 erBB'er who gave me a great deal - and will give it a shot. Waves have now gone flat, though.

Kinda' ticks me off, though, that it's marketed as a thruster that can be used as a quad or twin. I think it's a quad that can be used as a twin, period.

Anyway, board is ready to go and I'm now just waiting for the chance.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,228
23,360
113
PNW
My experience with the Insanity was that the bigger and more powerful it was, the better it felt. Small or weak waves had it feeling less than lively. I preferred it as a twin + trailer
 
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oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,053
17,546
113
San Diego, CA
Album Insanity - used it as a thruster. Used the fins I used in another thruster I love. So bummed. First Album board I've ever had. Got it from Varial just before they closed.

I've scoured the knobs and tubes of the internets and think the Insanity will probably work better as a quad. I closely watched Kerr in that Kandui video and also listened to an interview with Patt Marker saying Josh uses his as quads or twins plus trailer. So got quad fins made for the board - actual Album quads from NVS, via a certain 805 erBB'er who gave me a great deal - and will give it a shot. Waves have now gone flat, though.

Kinda' ticks me off, though, that it's marketed as a thruster that can be used as a quad or twin. I think it's a quad that can be used as a twin, period.

Anyway, board is ready to go and I'm now just waiting for the chance.
That’s a bummer. You might try a different tri set- maybe smaller center fin with the fairly narrow tail. I believe @racer1 preferred his as a truster. I tried as thruster and it was fine (JJF L sides, M center). I've loved mine as quad in CH+ and twin plus training wheel for below that… but figured that was just because I’m more used to surfing twins/quads the past few years. I’ve been impressed by the versatility of the rocker. Had fun in pretty mediocre conditions a couple weeks ago. YMMV
 
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Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,228
23,360
113
PNW
Super fun waves at the left reef this morning. Shifty, deep water peaks that would stand tall, lumber shoreward and then race along a dhallow inside bar. Rode the 7-2 allan gibbons channel twin for the first time in a while. NVS Doc Keels. It felt awesome. Got a few backside swoops that still have me buzzing.
 

santacruzin

Kelly Slater status
Oct 17, 2007
9,106
10,290
113
valley purgatory
Kinda' ticks me off, though, that it's marketed as a thruster that can be used as a quad or twin. I think it's a quad that can be used as a twin, period.

Anyway, board is ready to go and I'm now just waiting for the chance.
yeah there ya go! and if it doesnt work as a quad, then burn it in the cove as a surf sacrifice!

:roflmao: :roflmao:
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,053
17,546
113
San Diego, CA
Spring appears to have sprung. Sloppy and weak, but needed a get wet sesh after almost 2 weeks. onshore with 4 guys out then 8. Getting wistful about the demise of varial, so took out the OG plasmic. I ripped several bottom turns to kickouts as most waves fizzled out quickly. most fun of the session was going in I realized the inside dump section (which you couldn't connect to from the outside) was actually wedging up a bit. Caught a handful of short insiders and managed couple fs slashes, floaters, and speed runs.
 

motosurf

Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 19, 2008
494
61
28
805
Got a quick session to the south. Mostly close outs but it was better than I expected. Rode an old board I had in the rafters that I thought was way too small and had written off. Volume not listed but at least 4L less than I'm riding. Worked pretty well and has me rethinking my next board purchase.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,053
17,546
113
San Diego, CA
Kinda' ticks me off, though, that it's marketed as a thruster that can be used as a quad or twin. I think it's a quad that can be used as a twin, period.
out of curiosity, where did you see it marketed as a thruster? just watched the lil video of Matt describing the insanity, and he considered it as their closest model to a performance boar and says it comes with 5 boxes: ride it as quad or twin + trailer. Not trying to be a jerk.
Hope you like it as a quad. I've used a few different quads in there and all seemed good. Probably used the album TA quads the most.
 

slipped_disc

Billy Hamilton status
Jun 27, 2019
1,676
2,573
113
Surprisingly fun morning. Slightly textured, but plenty of drained out waves with the negative tide with enough push to project some bottom turns and whap the top. Waist to shoulder high. Small crowd. And lots of action. Was on the Fuse today.
 
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Goofy_Footed

Nep status
Jul 31, 2016
628
1,481
93
Repost from the travel forum (currently in El Salvador)


Today was nice. Overcast skies and a light onshore breeze. Didn’t feel like we even broke 90 degrees. Everyone surfed the early morning session and got out around 10am. That’s when I made my way out with only 4 other people in the lineup. Yesterday’s swell died out some, but there were still HH + sets coming through. Surfed for about an hour and a half, until some lightning started popping. Came in for about 30 minutes to pound some agua and then headed back out for another hour and a half. Lucky for me, the wife had a little too much Vohdka (as the locals say) last night, so no plans and left me to get my turn on.
 

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,942
3,083
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
beautiful sunny afternoon, not much surf but super clean in the early afternoon, not too many sets, but enough, paddled around on the 9'4 and got some fun waves, i was out there having fun, in the warm california sun
 
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motosurf

Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 19, 2008
494
61
28
805
Snuck a session in to the south. Better than I expected but kind of inconsistent and only one peak really working. A pack of groms with stickers on their boards and filmers on the beach so I sat to the side and got some scraps. Got lucky and two set waves came my way. On one of my first waves I pulled out and tried to jump onto my board. It flipped over and I took the fin to the chin, if I didn't have a hood on it probably would have ended my session early.
 
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oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,053
17,546
113
San Diego, CA
Thought I spied a couple workable corners but it must’ve been a mirage. By the time I paddled out wind had come up pretty good and pretty much blown it out. One other guy out and we split the peaks. 5’8 AA con fish couldn’t do much without any slope to the face. Tough to get much inertia going. Pretty much dumpy takeoff to mushburger. Gave up after 40 min.
 
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Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,228
23,360
113
PNW
Yesterday was brutal at the left reef. Tide outgoing to a minus. Wind conspiring with the reverse current to suck me too deep. Choppy, stair step double up drops on my backhand. Got so drilled on a couple, followed by multiple beatings back to the channel. I surfed alone for like 45 minutes out of sheer stubbornness. Got one wave that lined up and allowed for a turn before closing out. I went in after that.

This morning was much better. Rode the new Cheat Code as a quad (H4's) and surfed some racey, HH+ rights at my favorite spot up North. Actually got denied on my first attempt to paddle out which hasn't happened to me in a long time. My second attempt went better and I got a fun 'tweener right off the bat. My buddy was out there before me but he was struggling to figure it out, chasing wide ones that were mostly closeouts and put you in a really bad spot. He followed me up to the top of the bar and got himself a good one and we pretty much stayed busy for a two hour session. The board felt better and better as the session went on. Not exactly the surf I had in mind for it and at times I had to nurse it a little but it actually impressed me. Some of the better waves had sort of a flat outside section and then they would bowl up and run down the line. I was able to get some good speed going through the flats and carry it into the better part of the wave. Pretty stocked.
 

Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
26,780
19,723
113
Jacksonville Beach
Fun one-n-done frontal passage. Chest, some plus here and there. Some windslop with moments the past few days leading up to it, tide bottomed at about 5pm. Breezy side-on starting yesterday afternoon, strong side all night/morning, then swung with the storms. Some howling offshore coffee runner rights up the beach and oncoming tapered lefts against the grain. Turns and shampoo-lets. Drift spreading the peeps. AT 77 WT 67