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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Same recipe as yesterday, but the waves didn't really come to the party. Still had 2 very pleasant hours in boardies without being the least bit cold, and got some ok waves. Warmest water I've ever surfed in NZ.
Tomorrow morning could be ON at the big sandbar, and the 8'0 Keogh is going in the car this evening. Froth prepping!
Tomorrow morning could be ON at the big sandbar, and the 8'0 Keogh is going in the car this evening. Froth prepping!
I phoned it in after a gauntlet of a week, grabbed my 9'6", and went to my local. -1.7ft of tide, everyone is still sitting on the usual peak. I am watching it for 30 seconds, and see a perfect right peeling off to the north.
I proceed to surf it alone for 1 hour, clean up, leave with a huge grin on my face.
I proceed to surf it alone for 1 hour, clean up, leave with a huge grin on my face.
Have you posted a full board report on this? I've never owner a bonzer, but like reading about them... And this one's a twin... Like feed us duu
I 100% will once I log some more sessions. I had it out twice in decent waves and only started to tap the potential.
My 20-something nephew wanted to go for a surf this morning at the peak high king tide, and reefs were swamped, so met him down at Practice Beach. might be the most dangerous lineup in SD county. what a zoo: beginners, kooks, adult learners, midlenghtns, wavestorms, gopros, iPhones in waterproof bags, bailed boars, dropins, go-straights, zero wave/surf etiquette, obstacle course, 10 people paddling for any wave yet most missing it.
Rode 7'0 dankness, caught a ton of waves, but man, it was hectic. Got a couple longer ones that lined up as the tide started to drop, weaved my way through the human buoys to the sand.
Nice n toasty in 3mil hooded. Getting used to hood rather than plugs.
Coached my nephew a bit. He's getting better, needs to work on pushing his turns harder. Stocked to spend some quality time with him.
Rode 7'0 dankness, caught a ton of waves, but man, it was hectic. Got a couple longer ones that lined up as the tide started to drop, weaved my way through the human buoys to the sand.
Nice n toasty in 3mil hooded. Getting used to hood rather than plugs.
Coached my nephew a bit. He's getting better, needs to work on pushing his turns harder. Stocked to spend some quality time with him.
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Went back for more of the same the day after. So far my experience on the middy is as follows:
Number of sessions, up. Number of waves caught, up. Length of ride, up (surfed a point with middle-fat section). Number of cutbacks per wave, up.
No downsides for where I've been surfing it. To quote a mate of mine while we were out and in our own little rhythm ( we were super gay and got middies both the same day) " i feel like such a fucking idiot for not having one of these sooner"
Went on an evening paddleabout / surf with @frontsidegrab and his 12'6 adventure board. Both got many fun rides, but that sealed it. Gonna sell the prone, and hopefully snag an 11'6. @20W-50 and blood hmu if you wanna work out a deal on the Bark Commander!
It’s a slippery slope. Welcome to the arms race. Before you know it you’ll be in Beachbeat talking to Bowie and feeling up longboards. You know, just for those small days but before you know it….! Full time wave harvester.
Mate of mine on the GC used to ride low volume alt boards. Then I surfed with him one time at Lacey’s lane where I was riding a 7’4” and getting waves from out the back through the fat sections and connecting the inside. He was basically getting the bottom turn into deep water and stopping dead.
He got himself a Pacer 7’ egg from Beachbeat and eventually sold all his small boards.
Now he won’t ride anything under 7’ and I often ask him don’t you missing do a hack or something on shorter boards. Nope he says.
Me I can’t do that.
I can relate to the first part, but not the second. I need exactly one middy, one log / prone and the rest are for shreddable days.
Just a get-wet sesh late morning. Surfed reef2 with one other guy out and we pretty much stayed out of each others way. WH onshore waves didn’t have much push. Plasmic channel did its best, knitting connecting sections together to extend the rides
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sewing circle. pretty common amongst the competent kooks post covid.
on another note. fun morning. could have ended better. hate it when the landlord shows up and shuts it down
on another note. fun morning. could have ended better. hate it when the landlord shows up and shuts it down
funny chit. checked the surf around 9:30. older guy got out of his truck with a small dog. Goes to look at the waves, cracks open a can of Coors golden banquet. Breakfast of champions