Oh, you are 5'11? Still, at 195-215, I would be on AT LEAST 20 wide and 2 5/8. You probably should go 2 11/16 or 2 3/4 with foiled rails. If you went to a shaper these days for a custom, I bet they would recommend similar if not bigger.
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
I am known in these parts as "the barrel dodger". No wax in front of the pad needed - EVER!yeah. what is that, a 4'10"? i'm surprised you can even turn that barge with such a sad pad.
also, you've waxed to the nose but then left a bare patch in front of the pad, right where your foot goes when you are getting shacked.
no firewire stickers on the board, hello??? this is not how you get invited to the surf ranch...
purple leash string is pretty dank though.
I like to nose ride and get little cheater 5's on my Tomo sleds so wax on the nose is mandatory.
You make a good point on the firewire stickers. Might have to take care of that this weekend.
Lest I forget the ride report for today.
Pulled up at dawn... not a soul in sight. I look around and see a lake with shitty side shore wind coming out of the South. Slowly, a car creeps in the lot. It's surfer Steve (the Asian one). We drink our coffee and discuss his heavy work load and how fun it was yesterday... and how it looks like sh!t today. It looked so bad that even though I drove 40 min to get there, and woke up at 3:30am, I planned on driving home. Then Phil walks up with his bom dia in hand. He says "well, i drove all this way might as well". I laughed because he lives local and has no idea what that even means. lol. We stand there and talk about how shitty the conditions are and then all of a sudden, we see a set come through and its about chest high and peels a perfect left and right just off the jetty. I'm thinking WTF... where did that come from!! Surfer Steve makes a run to his car to suit up. I drive to the free parking lot with the rest of the poor peasant people. As soon as I get in the water, the sun comes out, the wind dies down, and the waves pulse a bit with the tide push to about waist high. 3 other people out and I had an incredibly fun session on my own little peak.
Super crappy morning that turned out to be really fun. STOCKED!
Pulled up at dawn... not a soul in sight. I look around and see a lake with shitty side shore wind coming out of the South. Slowly, a car creeps in the lot. It's surfer Steve (the Asian one). We drink our coffee and discuss his heavy work load and how fun it was yesterday... and how it looks like sh!t today. It looked so bad that even though I drove 40 min to get there, and woke up at 3:30am, I planned on driving home. Then Phil walks up with his bom dia in hand. He says "well, i drove all this way might as well". I laughed because he lives local and has no idea what that even means. lol. We stand there and talk about how shitty the conditions are and then all of a sudden, we see a set come through and its about chest high and peels a perfect left and right just off the jetty. I'm thinking WTF... where did that come from!! Surfer Steve makes a run to his car to suit up. I drive to the free parking lot with the rest of the poor peasant people. As soon as I get in the water, the sun comes out, the wind dies down, and the waves pulse a bit with the tide push to about waist high. 3 other people out and I had an incredibly fun session on my own little peak.
Super crappy morning that turned out to be really fun. STOCKED!
Lest I forget the ride report for today.
Pulled up at dawn... not a soul in sight. I look around and see a lake with shitty side shore wind coming out of the South. Slowly, a car creeps in the lot. It's surfer Steve (the Asian one). We drink our coffee and discuss his heavy work load and how fun it was yesterday... and how it looks like sh!t today. It looked so bad that even though I drove 40 min to get there, and woke up at 3:30am, I planned on driving home. Then Phil walks up with his bom dia in hand. He says "well, i drove all this way might as well". I laughed because he lives local and has no idea what that even means. lol. We stand there and talk about how shitty the conditions are and then all of a sudden, we see a set come through and its about chest high and peels a perfect left and right just off the jetty. I'm thinking WTF... where did that come from!! Surfer Steve makes a run to his car to suit up. I drive to the free parking lot with the rest of the poor peasant people. As soon as I get in the water, the sun comes out, the wind dies down, and the waves pulse a bit with the tide push to about waist high. 3 other people out and I had an incredibly fun session on my own little peak.
Super crappy morning that turned out to be really fun. STOCKED!
For a fraction of the price of one of your Tomos, you could buy a parking pass.
Just sayin.
I've thought about it. Its $200 or so. But I dont think its worth it. If I surfed the pier it might be, but that's not very often.
keep Murrieta out of our message board reforest!
Similar experience to RF. Pulled up midday. Barely looked marginal but I recognized my friend's green Larmo out amongst the 5 guys. He’s like the mayor out there, so if he’s out, there must be something to ride. The wind stayed down, the sun came out, and got some fun lil fs shifty wedges on the inside, plus every 20 min a CH set would come through. Stocked.
Every 20 mins, so… you stayed out long enough for 2 set waves?
LOL. Tree, bro. I’ve been pushing an hour most days for a while. Building up my stamina.
@ReForest every time you dodge a barrel god kills a kitty
Wasn’t going to surf after work. Looked not too good. Read some posts on here about paddling out and being surprised how good it was. I decided to head down to the beach. Walked down aways and paddled out Waves were not very good and I surfed like sh!t.