*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
Surfed the summer regular on my 5’9 Striker from last year. Waves were mostly meh but got a couple of bashes.

Funny thing happened. Actually a few but.

This older guy comes out with those in between finger paddling gloves and he’s missing one eye. Never seen him before. He’s pretty aggressive but sticks to inside of
the peak. John comes out and tells me see the guy in the yellow shirt he’s a grabber. That gets me worked up a little so I keep an eye on the guy. And
yes he hassles the pack for smaller waves. I get a set and he’s almost gonna shoulder hop me but I smash it right past him. After that he gives me space cause I guess I pass his bar on who not to hassle.

Just before he goes in he paddles up to John and asks if he’s John K… John says yes. One eye starts kissing John’s butt. Telling him I used to idolize you in the 80’s the way you ripped RP Rights. You used to ride for T&C yeah. I had to turn my head cause I’m rolling my two good eyes and just snickering inside. One eye tells John I wondered what happened to you but you’re still ripping. John, tough guy that he is tells him I was locked up for a little while in the 90’s. Kiss Ass goes in then John starts chirping at me. F*cken T I could hear your thoughts. I tell him yeah you get me all riled up and then he starts kissing your ass and you’re eating it up. John goes yeah f*ck him, he can butter me up but I’m not giving him a set. I tell John hey Billy Idol you should’ve told him you got locked up for poking a guys eye out. Whole pack is cracking up. Haha.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,165
23,109
113
PNW
Haven't surfed in three weeks

In LA working and it's been cold and miserable

My kids sending me videos of their waves from Rockies

Shaper buddy calling me from Huahine "come on down, the water's fine"

He knows I can't

with friends like these...
Same. 3 weeks. Prp shots in my knee. Prob at least another month till i can get wet. Its fine though. I was totally not pissed to drive past this this morning.
20230403_100537.jpg
God threw in the little rainbow just to fck with me
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,018
17,480
113
San Diego, CA
March 9th for me. had the flu and 2 colds back to back this winter. that's like 9 weeks total out with something. craptacular waves and a chit ton of work. fml.

i should just move to the central coast bc then at least i can go fly a kite or some chit...
Oh. I thought for sure you were gonna say it’s HH and pumping at Stressles while it's flat down here in SD.
 
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  • Haha
Reactions: SD_Dan and Havoc

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,018
17,480
113
San Diego, CA
took the lb out because the weather was nice and it was barely rideable, Feeling tired from working on my property all week during my spring break but caught some little peelers, surf should be good starting tuesday as i will have to be out of the water for a few weeks. Wax em up boys.
Flatter than I’ve seen in a while. Can’t even motivate with a glider.
8D14E723-B413-40AD-AD7B-B9D9EDB3D8F7.jpeg
 

youcantbeserious

Billy Hamilton status
Oct 29, 2020
1,530
4,645
113
Location location
I have the 10'0" glider waxed up and ready to go and I am bound and determined to have my own little Easter morning sunrise service

I only need knee-high waves, but right now even that's a tall order

My kids said home isn't any better. They're diving caves in early April. Crazy.

Edit: it looks like June gloom already?!?!
 
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